Awhile back we discussed the various techniques and benefits for coating engine components. I have done some research on the companies who offer coating products and perform coating services. I have decided to try the TechLine products on my new LS6 engine build. With just three products I will be able to apply a thermal barrier coating on the piston crowns, apply a dry-film lube to the piston skirts and all other engine parts that touch one another (bearings, timing components, lifters, etc.), and prep the cylinder walls with a micro-fine dry lube/sealant. These three products cost less than $100 and are sufficient to treat three engines. A small spray gun or airbrush and an oven to bake the parts in at 300 degrees for an hour is all the equipment needed. I have compiled all the technical information into a .pdf file that I would be happy to email to anyone interested in learning more about this technology or the TechLine product line. If there is enough interest I will document the process and post the pics as I go along.
I was going to fly right on by, and not say anything....BUTT...I work for one of (if not the largest) automotive aftermarket engine parts manufactures company in the USA. We have tested every kind of coating made, and we currently use a "Moly Grafite" coating on our piston skirts. The application process is done simular to a silk screening, and the baking is critical. All I want you to be aware of, many have done the "At home " treatments, and many have found it in the locked up oil pumps of there engines. IF your set on this, may I suggest that you send your parts to Calico Coatings to have the process done. These folks are the premier coaters of NASCAR and NHRA engione builders. Just had to let you know !!! Good Luck!
That's good info AHotRod. The dry-film lube used for the piston skirts requires a one hour bake at 350 F and when complete does not add any dimensional thickness to the part. I have some Z06 Corvette pistons with skirt coating and it is so thin it almost looks like you could rub through it with your finger. I can't imagine this coating fouling an oil pump but I will pose that question to the TechLine folks before I go through with the process. Thanks... TechLine also does alot of coatings for OEMs, many of which spec their own formulations. I'll check with Calico to see what they have to say about TechLine.
Id be interested to know what Techline has to say, as well as your PDF. I'll be building a big motor soon, and am concidering some coatings. -Jeff Tanko
Charlie contact Mahle pistons all there pistons are deburred and coated.I got one from Dean Skuzas funny car they are the real deal,I think they will deburr and coat youres.--FEDER
Hi Charlie I have done extensive research on engine coatings. I have talked face to face with the owner and designer of techline coatings. I will be offering a coating servive to my customers when my shop is established. Techline has a certified coating installer program that they offer. You coat the parts and send them to them for destruction analiysis. Your parts are destroyed using various methods in order to test the adhesion and application methods. When applied properly these coatings will not flake or peel. There are many other coatings on the market that have claimed the ease of installation and power enhancements for home kits and none compare to the techline products. The parts I reccomend be coated are as follows. Underside of intake manifold, top of piston, combustion chamber & valve heads, backside of the valves(if you only want to do one for a cost reason do the intake) Exhaust runner then intake runner, headers, bearings, valve springs. esentially for power production you want to use coatings that control heat first. This applies to coatings that either reflect heat or radiate heat. Next go after coatings that reduce windage in the engine by assisting oil return. I am being pretty vague on many points here so if there is anything anyone want's me to go into deeper let me know. Just make sure to follow all the directions to the letter and you will have no problems with the coating and enjoy longer part life and more power. Shawn
Keep going. I've been reading about coatings since '87 and I've only used them on piston crowns once. Gotta admit though, I'm more interested in getting a person with some history to do it rather than doing it myself. How about a breakdown of recommendations per dollar level spent. Assume this is for a highly built street engine. What would you do first for $200, and then $400, and then.... What questions should I be asking the guy doing the coatings to ensure that he's good?
Shawn, those are all good points and the TechLine .pdf file that I offered covers each in fairly good detail. Not only the reasons why to do each part but the product, technique, and the results that can be expected. I looked at the installers program as well but I don't have a shop and won't being doing outside work. Sounds like you could get some business from the HAMB when you get up and running... modernbeat, I'll be keeping track of dollars spent and products used. Right now the only option that I have chosen (where two existed) is for the thermal barrier coating, I am using the one that is not meant to be polished. There is another that is not available as a retail item that is meant for ultra-high performance applications and requires the coating to be buffed which makes it more resistant to heat and carbon deposit adhesion. The cost of the TBC for the piston tops and combustion chambers is $29.99 and will coat 24 pistons. The dry-film lubricant is also $29.99 and is used for piston skirts and any other part that you want to protect from friction wear. The WSX lubricant is a dry lube that gets buffed into the cylinder walls, it's only 20 millionths of an inch thick but it promotes fast ring seal and improved leak-down. Many of these products perform the same function as some of the oils and oil addictives that you see on TV and in car mags. I believe that the technology is there, it's just that now when the engine is disassembled is the time to make the best application.
After I saw a set of ceramic lifters in an LT1 that were lighter, stonger, more wear resistant, simpler, allowed more radical cams, and were safer for the engine because they didn't need to have the needle bearings rebuilt every 20K, I was sold on high tech engine components. High dollar, but for the right engine they would be cheap insurance. Plus, Porsche has been using Nikisil crystals embedded in it's cylinder barrels since 1962. That makes it traditional - no?
I wanted to clarify my cost question. If I wanted to spend $50 on coatings, where would I get the greatest return for my money. What would you do if you were interested in performance? Or What would you do first if you were interested in economy or longevity?
Hi everyone To anwser a few questions. as far as a place to start. Obviously if you were to have a shop coat the parts it will cost more due to labor as the fact that the coatings that shops apply have a different chemical and applications conditions. Mony of these coatings require some pricey equipment to apply. The coatings available that are for home application will still offer notable improvements in power and longevity. I always make my roccomendation in term of producing more useable power as apposed to increasing part longevity. This can also be accomplished but will affect the order in which you would want to coat your parts. have $100.00 to spend I would first reccomend having the bottom of the intake manifold coated(this applies mainly to V engines where the bottom of the intake is open to the lifter valley and oil splash can come in contact with it) or the outside of I6, I4 engines. This coating is a heat reflecting or thermal barrier coating. What this will accomplish is a cooler denser air charge and make more power. This is also true with the I engines. Many have the intake and exhaust on the same side and heat from the exhaust can drastically effect the intake air temperature. I would also recomend doing the combustion chambers and tops of the pistons but this can be a little more costly and may wipe out the budget you have for doing this improvement. I like to see the tops of the pistons, combustion chambers and valve faces all coated together rather that just one or the other as it all works together. An option would be to opt for coating other parts that would provide an excellent improvement without having to coat many other parts along with it to see a dramatic improvement. Coating of bearings is a relatively cheap improvement in both power enhancement and life increase. It provides a safety barier in case the engine were to become oil starved the coating adds a second line of defense and just may save your engine. Another part that can have a dramatic effect on power is if you coat the back of the intake valve(the tulip)and the face. Why? because when air and fuel are entering the cylinder the intake valve is directly in the way of the incoming charge. In other words the intake air and fuel hit the back side of the valve and become super heated because of that contact. By coating the valve head and face you reduce the intake valve temperature hence reducing the heat that is transfered to the incoming charge. Reducing the temperature of the valve also increases the life of the part because it's stresses are reduced. Coating the intake valve. Coating the intake valve by itself is a excellent improvement and can be benifical without coating the other chamber parts as stated above. But once again if the top of the piston is coated the combustion chamber of the head should be done as well as the the valve faces. Also a side note I have seen many shops coat the combustion chamber of a cylinder head and do it improperly so that the coating does not cover the entire part of the chamber that would be contacted by combustion flame. I recommend that anyone interested in this info contact Charlieled and get the PDF he has available. And I don't want to talk for him but I am sure both of us would be willing to help out and anwser any question if anyone has them. Thanks for offering the info Charlie Shawn(fastcat)
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