Heres my dilema. Im building a '30 Dodge and have been wiring it (EZ-Wiring universal kit) for the last 3 days. Its running a 360 with electronic ignition. I got to the point where i could fire it up and run it. Well i cranked it a bit and nothing. So i pulled a plug and cranked to chk spark and nothing. But the last time i cranked it as i let go of the key and it snapped back into run it tried to start ?!?!?!? Hmmm. So i threw the plug back in and tried again. Nothing. Tried again, and this time as the key, again, snapped back into run it fired. I did this a few times. If i just hold the key and crank it doesnt do anything but crank but as soon as i let the key go back to run it fires. What the hell is going on ? When its cranking it seems like theres no spark. CAN ANYBODY HELP PLEEEEEASE ??!!!??
The first problem sounds like you have the posts on the ignition switch backwards. Swap the RUN or ON with the Start post.
doh!! I know that is a problem that seems weird but it's not unheard of. I'm sure somebody is remembering what i cant right now. It is a fairly simple fix and if i could remember it, this post would actually be more helpfull than hopefull.
The switch is wired how its supposed to be. The wires are labeled. This is my first experience with a mopar ignition system also. I have an Ecu, starter relay, and a ballast resistor all hooked up too. I have 3 different diagrams and they show the hook up all different too . The book with the kit shows a dual resistor my other digrams show a single. The book with the kit also shows a starter relay with 5 connections. The one i have only has 4.
If its on the tip of your tounge get your ass in the bathroom and look in the mirror cuz i need help !!!!!
If thats true then which one is right? I also put a test between the the neg and pos terminals on the coil and when i turn the key on it lights but when it cranks, nothing. Shouldnt it have power while cranking if not all the time?
An ECU what year system are you tring to start ? picks would help of the relay that seems to be missing one terminal You Should have coil voltage in crank and run
It is not unusual for the ballast resistor to die without warning. They cost $2, plug in another one. .
Thats actually one of the diagrams i have. The book that came with the kit has a similar one but it has a different hook up. It shows a dual ballast resistor and it shows the wires coming from the ECU hooked up different too.
Ill try that tomorrow. Sounds like it should work if its got power when its in run. Everything in the system is new except the ecu which was pulled when i pulled the motor which ran (i drove it to the garage)
I REALLY appreciate everybodys input. Thank you !! But keep it coming !! I want to make sure i have exhausted ALL my options, avenues, angles and what have you.
If the module is not properly grounded it could give you those symptoms. Double check your module ground.
Not sure about yer fancy-schmancy Mopar stuff, but Chebbies have a jumper that runs a full 12v POS to the POS side of the coil during cranking. Had a '63 Vette recently that would crank like a bugger but wouldn't run until you backed off START to RUN. Bad wire....she starts purty now....
Hey, just looked at the above schematic again. MAKE SURE you have the top right wire hooked up(marked start) that's the wire that gets energized when you go to start on your key. Either find it in your wiring bundle, or run a jumper from your START pulse on your starter solenoid to the upper side of your ballast resistor(in the first schematic). Crap, I hate trying to explain this stuff over a keyboard....I could have had it fixed in the time it takes to type this...
I'd replace all that crap with an MSD box and be done with it. Ballast resistors and ECU are crap on a modern ignition system. Since you're at the rewiring stage, go ahead and get a nice CDI and be done.
This is probably way off, but have you checked the charge state of the battery lately? A low battery will do exactly as you describe durring crank W/ most electronic ignitions I have used as the starter draws the system voltage below what the system needs to see to turn 'on' and then you turn back to 'run' (at the key) and as the voltage comes up it will try to fire, may even start if there is enough mass in the rotating assembly. Just a thought, as you say at one point it was working good and isn't now (charging system not up yet, or a slow draw perhaps? Both have happened to me). Hope that helps.
It worked ok first try, then the problem? Anyway, the switch may have failed, you are loosing coil supply, or possibly the ground strap is deficient and block ground is "climbing" during crank. Easy to tell without a meter. Put the ignition in run, and jump the starter relay. It should crank and spark (no need to run). If you don't get that far you'll need a meter.
Everything is new except the ecu. It and the motor came out of the same vehicle. I know this because i drove it into the garage and pulled everything. The wiring harness, ign switch, starter relay, ballast resistor, and battery are all new. It will only run when the key goes back into run position. It wont start while cranking
Had the same problem on my '97 Dakota (5.2 'Magnum'). New battery with a fresh charge and away it went. I see where you say the battery is new, I was more hinting that perhaps it was low, it's why I suggested a slow draw as well. It can happen, especially on a 'new' wiring job (or new to that vehicle) not running you down, just suggesting a possiblity.
I dont think its low its cranking pretty good. When i say new i mean i just bought it yesterday. Ill stick a meter on it just to make sure though. Thanks
I guess we'll have to disagree on this point. I have had many ballast failures over the years and the engine will crank but not fire. Excellent suggestion. The ECU can be a tempermental little bitch if not grounded six-ways to Sunday...do not rely on the 2 mounting screws alone, add a separate ground to engine and body. Make sure you have bare metal to metal contact. .
Im actually running a dual ballast but at this point only have one side hooked up. It doesnt seem to get power while cranking but when i let the key go back to run it fires and runs on its own.
Im thinking thats the problem. I hooked a test light between the pos and neg on the coil and when i turn the key on it lights up but when i turn it to crank it goes out. when i let go of the key and it springs back to run it lights back up.
You do not have the crank power wire hooked up or it is on the wrong pin on the ecu, nothing else will cause this, I have been through this many times on many different mopar cars.
I just want to say that this place never ceases to amaze me. There are some great people on here. Just an FYI, i got it figured out. No power to the coil during cranking. Thanks everyone for your help !!!
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