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51 dodge gyro-matic

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by shoeboxbuster, May 15, 2009.

  1. shoeboxbuster
    Joined: May 15, 2009
    Posts: 1

    shoeboxbuster
    Member
    from kansas

    Can anyone give me details on the gyro-matic trans. I just started working on an old coronet and would like to know details on how it worked, how to check fluid, how to repair and what kind of fluid to use! please help I'm lost with this thing. My motor runs good but if I can't get the ****** to work it's getting a CSB.
     
  2. blackmopar
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 481

    blackmopar
    Member
    from fallbrook

  3. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    Get on ebay and get a Motor's manual from 52 to 57. It will have all the info needed. About all I know about them was they used the old type A fliud.
     
  4. Little Wing
    Joined: Nov 25, 2005
    Posts: 7,565

    Little Wing
    Member
    from Northeast

    Had one before ( thought it was a 3 speed :D ),,was told to just get a better trans. They can be a handful
     
  5. sincitysled52
    Joined: May 11, 2009
    Posts: 30

    sincitysled52
    Member

    I've got one now in my 52 Coronet and thanks to this website, I found out I was driving it wrong. I thought it wasn't going in to first and was ready to pull it. Turns out it has 4 forward gears and reverse. Reverse is where it should be and first is in the second spot (forward and up). Once you get it up to about 8 to 10 mph, let off the gas and listen for a "clunk" it should drop into second. Then clutch and down to Third and do the same for fourth. These ****** are a pain to work on but supposedly there bulletproof so try it and let us know.
    Good Luck
     
  6. I have had a few of these. Here's the skinny, from me:
    Normal driving; start the car. Then, whilst holding the brake, clutch and select a range (they're not gears, they're "ranges"), generally 'high' range for all normal driving (corresponds to 3rd gear). Now, holding the brake, let out the clutch. Once the clutch is fully home, let off the brake and accelerate like you do. Once up to 15 mph or so, let off the gas, wait for a clunk, then drive on.
    Reverse is about the same, though no shift :)
    You can, if you wish, use low range, shifting to high range, for better acceleration, though it's more annoying than useful, IMHO. But, this is how: Start in low range, same as above. Floor it, let up and allow shift, then floor it again. Revs up, clutch and shift to high range, then back on the floor, which will engage the kickdown, thus giving you the lower part of 'high'. Let up again, wait for shift, then to cruising speed.

    Hardly worth it, and very hard on an already undersized clutch.

    BTW, these were designed with little to no normal clutching anticipated, hence the smaller clutch. And the reason to avoid clutching whenever possible.

    Motor Manual will give you repair info, but not operational info. Owner's manual gives operational info. BTW, oil is to be 10W, not ATF.

    These are big cars with small engines, so acceleration is going to be measured on a calendar, get used to it. They are very well engineered and extremely solid cars, which are quite resistant to rust.

    Cosmo
     
  7. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 4,018

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

    imperial club website has the complete technician's comic book style handbook in their repai section. Several folks on p15 d24 have them and are literate in their care and feeding.
     

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