I'm thinking of using my stock 33 ford coupe insturment cluster with it's gauges. The ampmeter only goes to 20 amps but I don't think that's gonna be a problem. I plan to use a late 50s/60s ford 12 volt generator like I did with my last 33 ford...the pickup. Problem is the original 33 fuel gauge. On the back it takes a tube threaded into the gauge. All appears ok except I don't have the tube and I don't know what goes on the tank-side of that tube. What do I need to look for? Are the gauges fairly accurate? I'll be using a stainless tank behind the seat and it's long and deep...prolly 25-26 inches deep. The tank is already drilled for a modern [40s to 70s] GM fuel sender. Is this a bad idea? Would it just be easier to mount a modern S/W gauge behind the original ford oval lense?
you need the stock tank unit which wont work if the depth is different. those "thermometer" type gauges were trouble when new. i would keep the stock gauges for looks and mount a modern gauge somewhere unobtrusive
Hmmmmmmm...maybe I'll install a complete set of S/W gauges inside the glove box. It's a short reach over to it.
I too think that you should just use a "modern" fuel gauge. You're gonna need to use a modern water temp and oil pressure anyway, so what's 1 more? Personally, I'd just stick those 3 modern gauges plus a 30+ amp gauge in the center of the dash and only use the stock speedo.
My friend had the same deal with his '33 pickup. He wanted to retain the stock gauge that never worked when he bought the truck. I cant remember what tank his has though, stock or not. Either way, he found some guy selling the new hardware to hook up the gauge. This was the new fitting, line, etc. You fill the line with glycerine, and inside the tank is a floater. As the fuel level in the tank goes down, the glycerine level in the tubing goes with it, as does the guage.
Rocky I'm going thru the same exact thing in a 33 phaeton right now. I'm considering putting a three guage set on the left hand side Under the stock dash and back a few inches. Seems to be room and you can still see it from a normal seated position. The fuel gauge never worked when it was new... Lucky
Well this just ****s all around.... The hydrostatic fuel gauges were problematic,,, and.... I THINK, a 20 amp 6 volt ammeter BECOMES a 10 amp ammeter when converted to 12 volt...
The system is called "King Seeley Hydrostatic" there is only air in the line and the red liquid is only in the gauge, it is a very dense liquid - acetylene tetrabromide was used originaly but I think there is a different one supplied now with the rebuild kits. The biggest cause of problems with the system is air leaks at the unions on either end, the system needs to be air tight, and tested as such. Anyway, don't think it would work if you put the sender in a non stock tank. There is a certain ratio required 'between the chamber on the gauge with the liquid in and the chamber on the sender with the air in.
I THINK, a 20 amp 6 volt ammeter BECOMES a 10 amp ammeter when converted to 12 volt... That is not correct. An ammeter reads amps no matter what the voltage is.
I only have a photo of a 1932 fuel sending unit ( on the left ) but they look a lot like the 33/34 ... real pain in the shorts to get working properly. I suggest the AutoMeter series gauge. They are beige and look fairly old style with the antique style lettering font. You can purchasr their fuel gauge and it uses the standard SW sending unit ... or buy the Autometer sending unit.
You don't have anything to lose by trying the thing. Get a repro '32 service bulletin for full details, and go to it. It is a detail game...everything must be open and leak free. I think the system will work accurately for ITS depth whatever TANK depth is...in other words, empty will come up when gas reaches bottom of gauge, wherever bottom of tank might be. To me, a dash with original instruments working is a lot cleaner than one with a dead original gauge and a repair gauge covering that function hung on elsewhere. I have seen p***able conversions using modern gauge innards sideways behind the tubular gauge face, so needle swings in path of tube and at least crudely correlates with markings. Ammeter...on any functioning regulated system ammeter will always hang right around zero in normal operation, since amps produced will almost exactly equal amps in use. You will only see high amps actually registering when you start a car with a nearly dead battery or something like that... '32-4 ammeters came in both 20 and 30, I think 30 was largely for cars with radio or heavy duty uses. The inductive type was introduced during 1933 (loop on back instead of 2 posts), and since trucks kept the '32 configuration gauges you can find 20 or 30 amp ones with loop or posts to fit all. If worried, go with loop type...less sensitive and fluttery, and I don't think they will mind going full scale occasionally.
According to the 1933-34 Ford book restoration manual, Page 6-14 "The amp gauge registred 20 Amps plus or minus charge. In 1933 it had two terminals and in 1934 it had a loop for the wire to p*** through. The 1933 two terminal (40-10850-AR) went until May 1933. After July all where loop (40-10850-B). The calibration changed May 1934 to 30 amps plus or minus and began with the commercial vehicles" And a 100watt load on six volt will draw 16 amps a 100watt load on 12 Volt will draw 8 amps. and the amp gauge will show this regardless.
welp, I decided to use a little more modern gauges....1938 Dodge insturments. I sold the 33 cluster at the last swap meet to buy the entire Dodge dash, which is a great looking dash with like-new insturments...a much better deal for my particular application. Thanks all for the good info.
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