Hey paint people, Just curious who's using what when a tintable primer surfacer is needed? I did paint work for years, but this was a decade ago and I've been out of the loop since then. I was predominately a PPG guy, so K36 was my surfacer of choice back in the day. What's the scoop with K93? Good? Bad? I doesn't HAVE to be PPG... anything that tints good, has decent fill, and doesn't break the bank would be perfect. This is definitely NOT a high-dollar project! Thanks! -ns
We use it all the time here. Sikkens .. but it is limited for color choices.. Im certain dupont carries something similar..
Yeah, I've used some Sikkens stuff... I better go take out a loan before I spray that stuff, it's EXPENSIVE!!! -ns
I was able to do a color match for my Sikkens primer and we got it pretty close. But yeah, it's pricey. You usually get what you pay for in paint, but there are some exceptions.
K36 is still around, and just about as good. When I know I need to tint a sealer, I'm usually doing it for a reason and its probably because the topcoat is going to be kustom. That being said, I'm probably using HOK products anyway. Their Ko-Seal II is tintable with kandy concentrates and it works great and can even be used as a base under their kandies which saves a step.
RM's DP series primers are also tintable. Looking for something economical and tintable, I believe Upol makes a primer surfacer that is. I am pretty sure it is one of their newer products. Hit up their website or find a local body supply.
If you are looking for a quick-drying primer-surfacer, Evercoat's Slick-Sand is cheap and sets up fast, with no shrinkage, (it's a Polyester) but don't let it sit too long before sanding... it's like sanding concrete! Tint it with a little urethane base-coat (PPG or whatever you have around). If you don't mind letting it set a few days, use K-36 or better yet, K-38. They can be tinted the same way, but wait till they finish shrinking before you block it or it'll come back to haunt you. The sweet part is that it sands like chalk. (Well... almost) My "Trick for the Day" is to let the excess primer sit in your mixing cup and watch it for a few days and when it stops shrinking in the bottom of the cup, it'll top shrinking on your project.
I have only used a few tintable, I been useing Sikkens color build for years but it is pricey. I know there are others , lots use base toners to tint witch is nice. I think RM is like that. Maybe see if PPG's shop line has one.
Sikkens jobbers usually have their less expensive line U-tech, also. The U-tech is tintable. http://www.akzonobelcarrefinishes.net/default.asp?sid=65395
Marhyde is what I use ppg told me you can tint it. It's about 80.00 a kit here it's a 2k primer as well hope it helps thanks Tim
PPG K93 is very tintable. Although it doesn't appear too much different than K36 in the can, it is translucent and takes very little tint to make it go toward the color you want. I have two gallons of it waiting on my next projects. You can tint it just like auto paint and even mix tints to get darker or lighter shades. Many primers, K36 included are not very translucent and will give you an easter egg hue that is very disappointing. My local shop is a PPG master dealer and never dealt with K93. I ordered two gallons and when it came in, they were amazed at how well it tinted, and with very little tint.
By easter egg, I mean like out of the easter bunny's ****. I had a gallon of K36 and added 1 quart of DMC orange trying to make..........orange. It came out a dark peach/red mix of.......well, see above... Some colors do come out decent with K36, but they are nowhere near the original tint color. 1 quart of DMC purple will make a very light purple, just a shade darker than lavender. With 1/2 gallon of this leftover purple, adding 1 quart of DMC black will make battleship gray. It really gives disappointing results unless you get lucky.
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