Mustang ii spindle nut question

Hello-
I just installed a Mustang II front end in my 41 chevy coupe. Everything was installing just fine until I got to the front rotors. I have a set of 5 bolt 10.5" (Granada ?) rotors that fit just fine (bearings and seals)- my question is that is seems I am only getting maybe a full 3 threads on the spindle nut. Everything is tight and spins awesome; I am just curious as to how many threads are considered "safe". Anybody have an opinion? Thanks!!!!!!!!

 

You need to have the nut go on far enough to get the cotter pin in. 3 threads sure ain't letting that happen. Burr on spindle keeping the inner bearing from going on all the way?

 

did you have to change the inner race to get that spindle to fit? is the inner race seated all the way back in the inner portion of the spindle?

and is the inner oil (grease) seal dust seal, whatever) seated correctly..
it seems that the spindle should protrude thought the nut. (are you using the correct castle lated (technical term) locking washer doojobbers to hold the cotter pin??

sorry if this sounds silly.. the cold meds are rushing to my brain!

 

Great ideas- I am able to get the cotter pin in and every thing is as seated as it can be. It is identical on both sides, leaving me to believe that it is the way it should be. I just find it odd that 2.5 to 3 full machine threads can be considered safe. Does someone make longer Mustang II spindles or something?

 

there is a nut with a built in thin washer made just for installing Granada rotors on Mustang spindles.

 

Who sells this thin washer/ nut?

 

spin roter till tight then back off a half or so install pin fold, dust cap done..

 

Thanks for the reply...I understand the process of installing the rotor, I also understand how to adjsut the spindle nut; what my question is- how many threads are considered "safe" when you install the spindle nut? If you only turn the nut 2.5 to 3 full turns, does this grab enough of the spindle to keep the rotor from sheering the spindle nut off? Should I have at least 5 to 6 full turns to insure enough of the spindle threads are contacted?

 

here is what you need http://www.welderseries.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=48

 

enjenjo is a smart fellow. listen to him.

 

Thanks for all the input. I will look into the welder series washer/nut ***embly.

 

maybe I have 10.5" camaro rotors? Could this be an issue?

 

Pulled the dust cap on my MII front end. I'm using Granada rotors, and have 3 threads past the end of the nut/stamped castle cover

 

Thanks Madjack- I thought that is how it should be... I guess I need to just buy the 11" conversion kit and be done with it.

 

Just skimmed the post. 10.5" rotors yells GM rotor to me, 5 on 4.75" bolt pattern, right?

Common Camaro/S10 rotor and requires you change the inner race to the Ford style and use the custom nut/washer combo with the stock Ford nut retainer and cotter pin. Works just fine... provided yo have the correct caliper bracket to go with this rotor.

The Granada rotor does not need any special bearing or seal swaps. The rotor is bigger and closer to the ball joint/spindle and requires the apropriate caliper bracket for the application.

 

OK- I changed the inner races on the rotors and now have enough threads on the spindles to consider it safe. The next issue I ran into was the caliper brackets. I bought the 10.5" caliper brackets from speedway, made by southwest speed. It looks as if the calipers (GM metric) are out from the rotor(GM 10.5") about 1/4" ... meaning there is a 1/4" of break pad not making contact with the rotor. Anybody know of a different caliper bracket for this swap that puts the caliper closer to the center hub? Thanks!!!

 

?????

 

Air craft specs -1 1/2 to 3 threads. If cotter pin goes in and every thing is tight,why do you need a bunch of threads sticking out of a nut that do nothing? I would make sure evry thing is fitted correctly ,little leary of a thin washer and thinner nut on that bearing.

 

http://www.rodfactory.com/NewFiles/disc kits.html PN# 3212

 

Badlefihand- unfortunatley befor I changed the inner races on the rotors, I was only getting up to 2 full turns on a machine threaded nut. The nut (thin stock type) has a total of 5 threads. What I was seeing was less than half the nut being used. If that is air craft specs, I need to cancel my flight to Florida. HA! Thanks for your reply... the inner race change out allowed me to utilze more of the spindle nut's threads; almost flush now.

 

Good luck, That is threads protrudeing through nut.I should have explained better.I live in florida,worked 38 years in aviation,dont fly unless absolutley have to.

 

If the nut and the large washer fits on the spindle and you can get the cotter pin in then you are ok. The spindle nut is usually a fairly thin nut. If I remember correctly, there is a very thin, sheet metal safety lock that fits over the nut and has indentations for the cottor pin. This holds the nut from moving, just like the old castellated nuts that were used on the older cars. I ***ume the hub goes all the way back to the inside of the spindle.

Another check you may want to make is too remove the inner bearing from the hub and test fit it on the spindle. If it fits right that you are all set.

 

This link will take you to our web store. The nut has a shoulder that is pressed into the ID of the washer.
Spindle Nut

 

Aircraft specs are to save weight on aircraft and to save on unwanted extra weight to conserve fuel. You just need to change the inner races to the ones supplied in the kit with your bearings. It is not a good idea to use the races from one manufacturer and a bearing from another. The specs may be right on for the bore diameter, but the taper on the roller can vary. The rotors come with races installed and need to be removed. They do not have the correct depth that your matched bearing kit will require. Use the special nut with washer as long as the cotter pin fits it will be fine.