It doesn't seem right, but according to my junkyard test results 4WD's don't have "posi". I spun one axle and the other either didn't move or rotated in the opposite direction. Said cars are a Suzuki Samurai, Range Rovers, and Jeep Cherokees (front end). It be on-topic because the application would be an HA/GR. Thanks, Kurt
Only if they were ordered from the factory.It was a factory option on most 4x 4's,and well worth it if buying one new...
is there a specific type of axle your looking for, or anything with posi. rangers and explorer 4x4 and f150 seem to have posi and gear ratio is usualy 3.55. im not sayin they all do. but lately i noticed more of them do.
technically a 4x4 is a true 2wd, until the diffs are locked front and rear. Most front diffs are open to facilitate ease of turning corners. The rear can be open, LS, or posi. My '66 Bronco had locked front and rear, and it was not fun to drive on the street at all....squirrelly is the term used. Best bet is to look at the vin tag for the axle code, and go from there.
A four wheel drive just drives all four wheels. That says absolutely nothing about what type of diffs it has. Many up market models do have a posi in the rear, but sometimes it is an extra cost option on cheaper low end vehicles. Almost none of them have a factory posi in the front, because it effects the steering too much.
Most have a limited slip diff, if the front were a full posi it would cut down on the turning radius. That's why most offroaders use an airlocker up front to turn it off in tight spots.
ford puts an L in the gear ratio on the axle tag for limited slip. ex: 3L 55 for limited slip 3.55 gear.
ok first ..posi and limited slip are the same thing, just different name .one brand calls it posi the ofter call it limited slip......the term LOCK is also used with allot of posi's like the trac lock or gov loc.neither are TRUE lockers.if it has a friction clutch(uses additive) it is NOT a locker.even the air locker has some miss givens with its name.when its engaged it becomes a spool.there is no ratching when its engaged.most clutch type posi's are only good for around 40000 miles so if its in a salvage good chance its got some wear in it .most are rebuildable,i wouldnt touch a gov-loc.they are pretty much junk when the are new....now this doesnt mean ALL are worn out with mileage .but they loose there affectiveness as the clutch wears....then there are the electric lockers ..and the loc-rite .it replaces the spider gears acts like a detroit but not as strong.......
Not much unlike a rock crawler's trick to set the parking brake to transfer all the power to the front wheels. (on an incline when the rear wheels spin loose on a rock, traction is lost)
On a vehicle with a governor type "locker" like an Eaton no-spin......you can turn one wheel and the rear end will act just like an open diff, unless you spin the carrier fast enough to engage the locker. When I worked at the dealership we had customers come in from time to time complaining that they jacked up the rear of their 4X4 truck and the diff acted like an open diff.....they wanted their "posi" fixed. Of course these Chevy light duty trucks have an Eaton "No-Spin" governor locker.....it wasn't a "posi" anyway.
guess your talking about a front dig?but to do that you have to just have the front end engaged ,just setting the park brake wont stop the rear from pulling .in low range it will pull through the park brake.we used turning brakes like sand rails ,we could lock either side rear tires and let the front do the pulling ..can cut some very tight corners that way. "kick the the rear drive out on the t-case,pull lever for left rear brake ,turn left, nail gas "...now an old trick with a posi or open is setting the park brake so it tricks the differentail . sometimes it will make both tires spin....
Most IH ScoutII's came with the Trac-Loc rear diff. By far, most ScoutII's I've looked at had it. Not the strongest posi ever made. they had Dana44 rear axles. Look on the inside of the glove box door. Usually you will find the "line setting" ticket there that describes the equipment the truck came with. You should see if the posi is there and the gear ratio.
I am on the hunt for an offset rear end. The Samurai and Range Rover are what I found at the junkyard. Might the RR have an electric limited-slip? I doubt the Samurai would. I don't know what welding the spider gears means- anyone have a pic? Is it okay to do for an HA/GR (drag racing)? Thanks, Kurt
I will agree that one of the most dangerous things on a slick road is a 4X4 but whether the driver is inexperienced or not the overconfident driver is the most dangerous. Most of these people would be better off in a car with a lower center of gravity than a 4X4. I don't care if you have 4X4 and antilock brakes, 70 mph on a sheet of ice is stupid. When the thing starts sliding sidways, it doesn't matter, when the wheels hit a little bit of traction combined with the higher center of gravity of most 4X4s, you are going over. This is why most of the vehicles you see with the wheels up in the air in the wintertime are 4X4s. End of rant! I would say that most 4X4s do not have posi. I have driven many 4X4 vehicles in my life and most have had open rears. The exceptions being of the ones I have driven are: An 1989 Ford Tempo All Wheel Drive, those were normally front wheel drive until you flipped the AWD switch that engaged an electric clutch that powered a positraction rear end. Then you had three wheels driving the car, both rears and one front. If you goosed it at a stoplight on a slick road the rear would kick out just like a rear drive car. Then you would leave just about everything else at the light. My 1965 IH Scout has a posi rear end. It has a sticker on the dash proclaiming that "this vehicle is equipped with an IH locker rear axle." I havent driven it yet but I'll bet the little ****er is going to go like mad in the snow and the mud. A buddy bought an old Chevy 4X4 pulling pickup and drove it on the street. It had lockers in both the front and rear differentials. He wasn't long in changing the front on to and open differential. He said it was almost impossible to control on a slick road.
Random advice....... You may be building a HA/GR car, but you're also building a DRAG CAR. Look around, you don't see range rover rearends in DRAG CARS, even low powered ones. Go get yourself a bare 9" housing and build around it. Now right now you're thinking my name must be Ritchie Richerton with all this money I'm spending. But I guarantee you it will be cheaper after 2 seasons. First, you're gonna break whatever junkyard-used rearend that goes in there. Take it from a habitual clutch dumper. Stock rearends die when abused. You really don't want to know how much the second range rover rearend is gonna cost once you build around a "great deal" and then bust the bearings out of the centersection. Next, it's a drag car. Once you make 20 p***es, you'll want a different gear. Open your racing catalog, how many range rover or suzuki gears do you see? You can buy used 9" ford gears from 4.** thru 6.** ratio for $100 all day long. What are you gonna do with a range rover diff when you wanna do 1/8 mile and need a 5.50 gear? Now about that posi.....The third time you heat the tires up with a junkyard limited slip, it's toast and you're doing the one-wheel peel. So now you need a locker and depending on the rearend design, a C clip eliminator (which is part of the 9" design anyway). Again, take it from a habitual burner-outer and differential-breaker. This WILL happen if you're driving it like a drag car. Welded spiders and mini spools are for tires that touch dirt. If they're slicks on pavement you need a real locker, or a real spool. Last, 9 inch ford is traditional. They appeared in like 57/58, right? good luck with the project, hope it runs hard and safe!
I've gottanother thread going on the HA/GR forum which is a good reply to this post: Keep in mind this is for an HA/GR which should be light, not a power monster, and running bias ply tires. Thanks, Kurt
I use to own a 1972 Blazer that had factory optional posi units front and rear. Yes, they can have posi units!
forget the samurai rear. you can beat the **** out of it with the stock 60 horse engine but with any more power you will snap axels like toothpicks. trust me i have 11 years of testing under my belt.
Toyota land cruiser has a rear with a pretty good offset and many were posi.The down side is 6 lug wheels but they are good and strong.Also easy to narrow.
Some later model (model 60's and 80's I think) had various lockers but I've never seen a factory limited slip in any of the "40" style LC's I've had or worked on. NOT saying they aren't there...just haven't seen one yet. Good offset and completely flippable to use that offset from either side of the car. (Done it.) I'll measure one if anyone's interested...??? 6 lug...****py brakes and C clips would be my biggest concern. Axles, housing and gears are very strong though. Some 4wheelers say equal to a Dana 60! Gears and Lockers/Posi's and spools are easially available as is a Disc(???) conversion for the brakes. "Easy to narrow?" I don't really think so...but I don't know everything. You could use two short axles I guess, but then your limited to whatever that track width turns out to be. Can't imagine narrow axles are available aftermarket either. No market for that in the LC community. HA/GR uses full width anyway don't they????? I dunno...
Hmmm...which side of the fence you on!?!? Bet you were using a "small tire" too when you "sure hammered the one in my old 62." A 1962 had the WEAKER 10 spline axles BTW...go figure! I think it might be a poor choice from a brake, C clip, TRADITIONAL standpoint...but weak? Come on...I just HAD to say something! Besides, with a Flatty or OHV six in a really light car??? Minimum 9.25" crown gear...33mm axle diameter(actually same as a Dana 60) They stand up to rock crawling with lockers (ONE 37"ish wheel/tire/axle pushing the entire 4500lb vehicle at times.) so the strength for a little HA/GR is there. As for gears.... 4.11 stock in early rears....3.70's stock in later models. Precision Gear offers 3.70,4.11, 4.56, 4.88. What do you need for a "budget" cl***??? Like everything they have certain issues that might make it usable or not. But weak isn't the one I'd worry about.
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