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Cutting springs, what do I need to know?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Stevie Nash, May 25, 2009.

  1. Stevie Nash
    Joined: Oct 24, 2007
    Posts: 2,999

    Stevie Nash
    Member

    So I've decide to cut the front springs on my car. It's got a early 80's front clip in it. Since I've never torn apart an IFS before, what tools do I need and what do I need to know about pulling it apart. Do I need a spring compressor or something?
     
  2. seret
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 539

    seret
    Member

    1st removing the springs can be dangerous, so be carfull!!!!!
    1.Jackup the car put jackstands under the frame. I like to put the jack stands in the very front of the car when possible<p>
    2.take out the shock. disconcest the brake line.<p>
    3.put a jack under the a arm, jack up the a arm a small amount.
    losen the upper ball joint nut. but dont remove it. leave at least 8 threads holding it on. hit the spindle frome the side with a hammer or use a pickle fork to pop the ball joint loose from the spindle <p>
    4. jack up the a arm a little more lift out the upper ball joint now you lower a arm is free the only thing holding the sring in is the jack. slowly let the jack down. when the jack is all the way down your spring should eather fall out, or pop out with little force.

    SOME IMPORTANT TIPS : get the car high enough in the air so when you let the A arm down it can open all the way. <p>
    When you put the jack under the A arm to let it down come in from the other side. for instance if you are removing the right spring bring the jack in from under the car on the driver side, so when the jack is let down you are 1. behind the spring being removed and 2. you A arm wont land on top of the jack. <p>
    also the A arm is going to rotate down as it is let down .make sure you put the jack in a place that the jack will not slip off on the way down. if the jack slips off the A arm. the spring could fly out and Kill or destroy anything in its way. So dont remove Springs parked next to your new car and dont let people stand in fron of the wheel well when you let it off the Jack.
    <p> I think you can figure out how it goes back together.

    <p>
     
  3. Ole don
    Joined: Dec 16, 2005
    Posts: 2,915

    Ole don
    Member

    Do all of the above, then start with cutting about a half turn at a time. Long and lots of work, yes. Keep in mind, when a spring gets shorter, the rate changes. The car may get "bouncy". Have fun!
     
  4. How about use the search function on here :D, because there are alot of threads on this already.-Weeks
     
  5. 38FLATTIE
    Joined: Oct 26, 2008
    Posts: 4,349

    38FLATTIE
    Member
    from Colorado

  6. seret
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 539

    seret
    Member

    Yep. dont get impatient and cut 2 coils out at once you will be out looking for new springs. I too would start with a half coil put it back together check it and re- cut it if you want to.
    depending on the coil A half coil is about an inch of lowering.
     
  7. kelgar50
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 180

    kelgar50
    Member
    from socal

    Also don't use a torch to cut them use a chop saw or a grinder.The heat from the torch will weakin the spring and you will get bad spring sag in a short time.Then remember to grind a new flat spot on the last half of the bottom of the coil so it will sit in the cup right.It has been years since I have cut springs but if I remember right it is about 1 1/2" inch of drop per coil cut on the gm springs.This how I did my 65' elco about 6yrs ago and still no sag.
     
  8. terd ferguson
    Joined: Jun 13, 2008
    Posts: 3,734

    terd ferguson
    Member

    serert gave some good info, use that. Definately use jackstands and even throw the tire you take off under the frame. Also, use safety glasses when cutting the springs. I know this should go without saying, but don't take safety for granted. I ended up in the ER with metal in my eye.

    Also, depending on what your front end is like, your control arm/A arm may be held on with some U bolts. I found it easier to take these off than messing with trying to get the ball joints loose. The control arm just drops out from the opposite side this way.

    If you cut a half a coil at a time, you may not even have to take the control arms apart more than once. I found that once the spring got shorter, I could put it in and out with the control arm fully drooped without having to take off the U bolts.

    Good luck and be careful.
     
  9. m.k.bench
    Joined: Dec 9, 2007
    Posts: 37

    m.k.bench
    Member

    I've always heard the heat from a tourch will ruin a spring? I drop em down in a 5-gal bucket o water, then make a quick cut. Any problems with this method? Also a 1/16 3M cut off wheel works very well.;)
     
  10. SakowskiMotors
    Joined: Nov 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,242

    SakowskiMotors
    Member

  11. 53chieftian
    Joined: Aug 13, 2005
    Posts: 611

    53chieftian
    Member

    I like the directions of seret, but i tend to go one step safer and only take the nut off the top of the shock untill the spring is free from the top pocket. This way the loose shock is still sticking up in the middle of the spring and if it should try to get away from you it will help slow things down!
     
  12. Shifty Shifterton
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 4,964

    Shifty Shifterton
    Member

    I use a different route to get the spring out. Safety chain it loosely thru the top then just pop the bitch out once the lower ball joint is free. The chain should be bolted to itself and long enough to let the spring expand yet short enough it's a safety restraint to keep the upper spring in it's pocket so it can't git ya. Once you cut it, will just pop in with a prybar and won't need a compressor.

    good luck
     

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