So I'm trying to figure out what kind of Model A hot rod I'm going to start building and came across a reasonably priced fibergl*** '28-'29 Model A Roadster body and not getting into the steel vs. fibergl*** debate, wanted to know the good and the bad about building a fibergl*** roadster? I'm sure there are similar issues with all fibergl*** bodies, but was wondering if there are more issues because it's a Roadster body with no roof? Any input would be greatly appreciated and if anyone has pics of fibergl*** Model A roadsters I'd love to see them.
Good? Easy to come by. Bad? Those really cool "don't touch my car unless you are ****" magnets wont stick to it.
If your going fibergl*** check into Wescott. A little more money but you can't beat the quality. Also put a rigid frame underneath it, Fibergl*** doesn't like to be twisted out of shape with every irregularity in the road. Frank
Don't buy a 'gl*** body that doesn't have reinforcing steel in it. It should be in the doors, under the dash, on the sides of the cowel, everywhere. Make sure the doors are hinged and close properly. Trunk should be hinged also. Does it come with a roadster dash? Make sure there is steel where you bolt the windshield on. And it must have a floor....
I've built both a '29 and a '27 roadster using Rod N' Race bodies. Both cars worked just fine and finished great. These bodies are mega cheap and if you don't mind doing a little blocking are a real bargain. I currently have a Brookville '31 I'm building and honestly it's just as much work, nothing against Brookville which makes a killer product. In reality the gl*** cars actually sold for as much as the steel cars I've built, were stiffer, and easier to upholster and paint. My next car will probably be 'gl***, as unless you have a real deep feeling for vintage tin, which Brookville is not, I think they are a better choice. Also an R&R body is about $2,200.00. Try and get a ravine find for that today. An A still sells for about 15K around here if you have 10K into it or 50K.
If you're going to buy a body from those guys at B&E in Minnesota make sure you have it bolted to the frame you're using then get busy and do the reinforcing pronto. If you don't the body will take a set and be hard as hell to get back into shape... I made that mistake.
Have you looked into the price of a fibergl*** Model A vs. a Brookville Model A? Might be worth an couple of extra bucks to not have to deal with any of the headaches (and fibergl*** splinters, ouch!)
Look at my avitar. You'll have to go to my project thingie on my personal page, as I still haven't done the photobucket thing yet. This was a race car built in the very late '60's, and run hard for thirty years. The No Hot Rods Allowed said "Either get it certfied, or get a certified ch***is." Screw them, we'll make it a hot rod! The body is unknown make, and is only two layer, hand layed cloth. The reason I'm telling you this is that if you decide to go with a 'gl*** body, buy a brand new body ment to be a street car, not some left over found at a swap meet. The amount of work I'm doing to get this body strong enough for street duty is as much as if I drug it out of a creek somewhere, and it still won't last long if I really drive it hard. I can't open the doors because the original builder glued and bolted them shut, and even after ALOT of wood and reinforceing on the inside the body is still very fragile. I'll probably have to replace it soon after I get the car running, but haven't decided whose body I'll use. Personaly, I would START with steel, as I think it will last longer on the street. Having said that, the T-bucket guys are going to jump me, rightfully so, because I personally know of thirty year old buckets in the Dallas area. All things being equal, I'm working with what I had when we retired the old warrior. If I had it to do again, I'd copy Tardel's AV8, only with a modern drive train. So, I guess after all this ramble, I'm saying buy steel. I've built other rods in the past, all in steel, and I feel they are less work for the same results. Thanks, Mike
Mike- As always it takes some work to get a race weight body useful on the street. Thats why a lot of maufacturers supply both types. We've run race weight bodys by doing a really good job of gl***ing in oak reinforcement which you need in any fibergl*** body anyway. Steel frames in gl*** cars can benefit from additional wood reinforcement as most gl*** bodies use. Building a good 'gl*** car is not rocket science, it just is a little different than steel. My bet is with one weekend of time with some mat and a decent bandsaw and your body would be just fine, including the doors. Like steel, there ain't nothing that can't be undone.
This one was really nice. 350/350 powered, Jag rear end, fast and fun. Unfortunately it was totalled this past Saturday evening in an accident caused by another driver. Driver (my nephew) and p***enger both ejected, but both also walked (limped) away. Will likely be rebuilt.
Well the reason I posted this question is that I found a place here that sells fibergl*** Model A bodies for $997 and needed to know what to look for if I decide to investigate further or if it was even worth looking into, but the price is tempting me. I'm sure this isn't a reinforced body and it doesn't have a floor, but it comes with re-inforced doors and deck.
I had a B&E fibergl*** body... should have done the reinforcing right after I got it. I used a 1/2" piece of plywood for the floor... gl***ed it in and let it sit. The body wasn't bolted to the frame and took a set (in the wrong way) I traded it for a '40 Ford truck. The B&E body is OK... but you need to get right on it to get the thing reinforced. As far as cost... I paid $775.00 for it... would have had a good hot rod body for $1000.00 if I had kept on it. If your building a budget A this is a good way to go.
Step away from the body.... Go get that A coupe Lonnie was talking about... The time spent to get a $997 body fit together may be more trouble than it's worth...
Hey, what do you know, you guys didn't even invite me to dinner last night!!! Just kidding, I stopped over and made him an offer and he turned me down flat, so that "garage stored, solid as a rock '30 coupe, that hasn't seen daylight since the early 70's and the road since 1956" will have to wait. It will be mine some day, but in the meantime my non-existent budget doesn't give me too many options. Next time I see you we'll have to talk.
Wow!! A $997 A roadster body?? Never seen one. Cheapest one I've found was about $3K, for a decent body with factory reinforcements. Guess I've been hanging out in the wrong places. Do tell me more about this low buck body!
i'm interested in info myself.....looking for a "cheap" gl*** model a roadster body for a cheap drag car......post up info if you have any.,....
I'm building one right now. I bought a package from Riverside Roadsters in Watertown Wisconsin, I did all the steel myself and had to hang the doors and trunk lid. I flush mounted the doors and went suicide style. The whole thing is alot of work but the bodies that Shane Preston has are pretty good. I got mine with Body/fenders/floor/doors/trunk/perimiter frame/front bumper/hood/&dash for $3,000.00. I thought that was a good price. I'm a year into the build and am ready to start it up. Check out my photo album. I can e-mail more pics of the build if you want,PM me. I can also give you Shane's number at Riverside Roadsters.
My 'gl*** 27 body from Lions Hot Rods has square steel reinforcements epoxied to the gl***. No telegraghing That is definatly the way to go IMHO if you have real resin.
These are chopper gun bodies... they have a nice gelcoat finish. You'll have to hang your own doors and trunk, make your own steel and wood reinforcements and fiddle with the fitment and make a floor and firewall(plywood works good). But it's nothing a guy with more time than money can't do. A stock 28/29 windshield frame is a pretty good fit. But you have to get going on'em before they get "set".
I know you said that you wanted a roadster but check out Mountain Home Street Rods. http://www.mhstreetrods.com/ I had the privilege to poke and prog all over one at this years Oklahoma City nationals. I was very impressed. Their website will inform you what to look for in a body.
I would have an interest in a Fibergl*** 30/31 CHANNELED roadster body if anybody knows a manufacturer I would be interested in talking to them....
Having built both gl*** and steel cars, I can honestly say that it's hard to give gl*** any advantage. It has it's own challenges during construction, a few of which are outright pitfalls that you don't face with a steel car. If the price is even, I would pick steel. The price advantage would need to be 50% or better to make me think about it. Otherwise, they both cost about the same to construct and finish out. It's just different tools and methods.
I seem to be good at digging up old threads. Is there anyone building fibergl*** '28/29 roadster bodies? There are so many companies that do '32 roadsters but no one seems to do the early A's. My searches have only resulted in one builder of 28/29-ish fibergl*** roadster bodies, and that's Spirit in AR, but it's "their version" of a '28/29 body, meaning that they've taken their artistic license to change it here and there. A steel Brookville body would be great but at about $8K, when you add a few options to an ***embled body, price becomes a deterrent. Decent Henry steel seems almost non-existent and I'm not a body man so piecing one together isn't a viable option for me. Have my searches missed someone who does '28/29 roadsters in 'gl***? Thanks. Lynn
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