I bought a 52 Ford with a flathead about 10 days ago, got it going and the biggest problem i have is that after driving when you shut it off the temperature guage goes all the way over to hot and it pukes coolant. It runs at the 3/4 mark on the temperature guage when driving. I have lowered the collant level in the radiator (how low can I run it?) and put a new cap on. (13 pound) I thought about trying to run it without cap and see what happens. Any advice, suggestions or wfgs would be welcome. Thanks, Irvan
You should always have coolant showing in your top-tank...covering the top of the core at least. I'd try changing your thermostats first....then maybe get the rad boiled to clean it out
Lowering the coolant level is counterproductive. Controlling coolant loss may be accomplished by adding a recovery tank. Sounds to me as you are running hot. From what I've read; the flathead eight is difficult to cool at best, you must realize they have four feet of exhaust ports running through the water jackets! What it boils down to is that any slight deficiency and you've got a problem, especially on a full bodied car.
start with the thermostats,& checking the timing-you may want to have the radiator boiled to remove any debris and crud,also would not hurt to flush the block
Retarded timing is probably the most common problem with the Ford flatty V-8's running hot. Also order a set of Prestone #330160 (160 degree) or #330180 (180 degrree) t'stats and change them along with a flush of your cooling system. These stats were actually designed as a high flow stat for the Chevy small block so do a search for them as a Chevy part. BTW the dash gauge goes to HOT when your key is off. Increased current thru the loop pulls the gauge towards cold when the key is turned on. As the motor heats the current is reduced allowing the needle to move towards hot. I'd say if it's puking is is actually hotter than it should be.
Lose the 13# cap unless you want your rad tanks to come apart at the seams. They weren't built with the internal braces to hold that much pressure. 7# max.
There are volumes written here on flathead overheating. Do a search. I would start by cleaning out your system with a straight vinegar. Its writtne here on the Hamb (Search). A lean fuel mixture will cause this and I'd bet my paycheck (I no longer get) that the distributer advance pod needs rebuilt, all the older ones leak vacuum. ( I agree you should not use anything over 4-6 pounds for a cap..
Are you overfilling the rad? The correct level "cold" is about an inch below the neck, maybe more. A 4 psi cap was stock.
Timing...stock '49-53 distrib is frequently inop. As a first step on that, hook it to a Mityvac type tester, see that the plate physically moves under vacuum and will stay advanced for at least a few seconds under steady vac. Someone on here will know if there is a modern 7 lb cap with the extra valving that allows use of a 2-way recovery system...without that, water should blow out a bit on first trip then stay steay with core well covered thenceforth. I suspect a plugged up rad core, probably with crud in blosk too. Runnit with flushing stuff, blow out block and radiator with hose (thermostats off fo hosing) and see if that helps.
Contact GMC Bubba and get a sbc dizzy for it. Get your timing right and more than likely your overheating problem will go away. After adding the new dizzy, my flatty stopped overheating. Stock pumps, stock radiator and will idle all day long and never get hot.
Like said lose that 13# cap. It should have a 4# cap. Fill the radiator full and let it puke out and dont refill. After a few times it will hold its level where it needs it. My flatty runs at half the temp gauge and setting in traffic it will go up to 3/4 hot. My friend (old flatty mechanic) said shes running fine dont mess with it. I also threw in a bottle of water wetter it cant hurt. You might need some new stats, and check everything. Timing, belts and tension on the belts. Maybe flush the block out. I took tellescoping magnet used for chasing lost nuts or washers with and ran it back in my block through the front when I had my pumps off and removed old casting pieces stuck in the block. I had a palm full out of both back corners of the block come out. It was little steel beeds like welding spatter.
Here's the best advise your likely to get. To try to add something to it, I'd say this. Since your engine appears to be stock from the pic.... I'd recommend making sure it's tuned properly back to Ford specs, including rebuilding the carb along with the distributor and the cooling system work already suggested. Might even start with a compression test. You can also invest in an IR temp guage. You can guage the engine temp accurately as well as locate cold spots in the radiator, if there are any. Rich
I'd bet dollars to donuts that it's a combination of most things addressed here and every other site that people run flatheads. Search function, it's a FNG's best friend Timing, get a new distributer, or have yours rebuilt **** in your block, flush it out until it's clean, then do it again **** in your radiator, see above Accuracy of the temperature sending units and gage Improper radiator cap, you should only need a 4# at most, make sure it's the long neck ones or it isn't going to seal right causing your system to boil and overflow Improper or no thermostats, pull your hoses and check, do the boiling water test to see when they actually open Carb running lean, rebuilt it and maybe check your exhaust with an O2 sensor if you have access ask me how I know all this...
also need to make sure that the seal portion of your radiator cap is the right size, the stock radaitor opening is bigger than the newer style caps. In fact a new style cap will pop throught the hole, and then stick there, making it a 400lbs cap (estimated).
On second thought you should just git rid of that car I can haul it away for you. Nice car man. I wish we all could be more organized and actually lend a hand and turn a wrench and help when we can.
Drain and flush your system, fill with white vinegar. Run it for a week, drain and flush. Don't forget the heater needs to be open. I would fill it with straight water to see if its cured. Had a friend that had tried everything with no results. Talked him into trying the vinegar, now he has to run a thermostat to warm it.
Wow, thanks for all the responses. I guess now time to go to work on it. I like the vinegar idea, will order a new radiator cap from somewhere (local auto parts just has wrong) and flush and hope and then start on the other more complicated, more expensive stuff. I really do appreciate the help, never had a flathead that ran before and can't find anyone I know who knows much about them. Thanks.
After reading all the post I can't think of anything else off hand . Car looks good . Is the interior nice too ? I will ***ume you have the rest of the air cleaner and not running without one . I think a good clean out and parts change and you will be driving again !
thanks, yep, interior is "pretty nice". has old seatcovers, good carpet, fair headliner. Car was done in the late 60s and a lady bought it 25 years ago for her husband for their anniversary. He died 8 years ago and she finally thought it was time to sell.
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