250 swap in a 50 Chevy car

I have been slowly working on this project, 50 Chevy p***enger car,for one of the guys in my car club. I purchased a kit that allows the bolting/welding of a 250 and a turbo 350 auto in a 50 Chevy car, I have already sliced the trans cross member in the center and will be using a prefabbed kit to mount the trans. I have also marked the firewall as it needs to be cut to give clearance for the trans. My question is on the front frame rails, do you remove the spot welded tabs that are on both sides of the frame to give clearance for the mounts to sit flush and be welded. Any suggestions or ideas, thanks in advance.
Pete

 

Yes.

 

Call Walton Fabrication, they have a nice kit that works well, fast and easy! 909-931-9548 ask for Todd

 

I Drilled the spot welds and peeled them off.

 

For some reason your pics are not showing up. There is no need to mess with your firewall supports for 250 install.
I'm putting a 250/350 combo in my 50 Chevy tomorrow. Tune in tomorrow for the pics and story. Todd

 

Ditto on the firewall supports..

 

check out my thread on this i had a blast building this car..all hand made motor mts and trans mt...cool build.. and fun car to drive.. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=314215

 

Wound up cutting the firewall in order to get it to fit in right and clear the radiator..no big deal will come up with a bubble shape to close it up..

 

i did'nt have to cut the firewall..it fit great..

 

Pete,

Now the pics are working. Those small strips on the frame come right off if you drill out the spotwelds and give them a good whack with a bfh and a cold chisel. I'd sure like to know what they are for????
Like I said I'm putting the 250 in my car today. All the measuring and figuring I did led me to decide to not run the stock fan and go with an electric on forward of the radiator. I guess you could move the radaitor forward but it does not look right to me and the hood latch is pretty close. I would hate to put the front clip back on and find I had clearence issues. Todd

 

Wholy ****! I just notice you cut the firewall. I think it would have been less invasive to mount the engine a little farther forward and just run a electric fan on forfard of the rad.

 

I am building this for one of the guy in the Fantoms, and he is not big on spending money, so I had to make it fit with the stock fan. I had also thought of the electric fan, but he was against spending the coinage so I cut the fire wall to get a better fit......no big deal the fire wall can be m***aged........ I am more of a Mopar guy and working this Chevy has been an experience to say the least..........live and learn...

 

like i said check out my thread on this,,,i did'nt cut the fire wall and it still ran the factory fan also...works freakin great...good luck...dave

 

I should have payed more attention.....oh well I'll fix it and it wont look terrible..how did you build the cross member for the trans?

 

i had that kit and dint like it........... ch***is mounts engineerings mounts never sat right but i never had to cut the firewall

 

I'll be doing the same swap (eventually) into my '52. I was figuring that I could move the radiator to the front of the core support and gain about 2" for the 250...

Good idea? Anyone else do it that way?

thanks!
- Joe

 

My nephew and I are were doing this swap, until he decided we should use the V-8 350, built Powerglide trans, and 55-57 rear end I have. You did'nt need to cut the firewall, the radiator will move enough forward, and at the very worst you would have to use a pusher electric fan. Even the trans mount can be simplified to the piece "Waltons" makes. Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Well **** if I had not been in an all fire hurry to finish this thing....I might have not cut the firewall.....now to fab something to cover my mistake...

 

the HAMB is a great learning tool...you will do well just take your time and good luck... dave

 

Ordered the Walton fab trans mount/crossmember..........getting closer to getting the engine/trans permanently mounted.....

 

Picked up a 57 chevy rearend for cheap, read to bolt in condition....3:55 gears.....

 

That's a easy fit into a 50. Decent gear ratio too. Todd

 

I don't know if it helps on the cars but on my 48 truck I found a shallow waterpump pulley and pressed the hub back the proper amount and then cut the shaft off. It's been so long since I did it I'm not sure what I gained but I do run the fan where it belongs.
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very familiar sight... im at the same stage with mine but i putting a 235 instead

 

on the bottom picture regarding the trans mount weld two 2 by 2 square 1/4 wall tubing about 12inches long right next to were u cut the x member ( on the back side) pointing to the rear of the car with a hole one the back end of each one, then make a small x member to join each one that your new trans mount

 

The original rearend 50 Chevy, say good buy.....




The replacement 57 Chevy 3:55 gears, say hello......

 

Anybody have a recommendation on bushings and spring shackles. where have you all purchased them from............I looked at Napa they have spring bolt kit and shackle ***emblies, with a set of off the shelf shocks is around 175.00...not badly priced..

 

I need the spring plates and U-bolts to make the 57 rear fit, did you all use the factory 57 chevy spring plate or something else............

 

Give Buffalo enterprises a call. He will point you in the right direction. Todd

 

Unable to get a hold of them.....has anybody used any late model plates.....