Okay this may sound stupid. But wouldn't doing that blow the diaphragm in the pump? I mean the air/gas that the pump is pushing has to go somewhere. Either that or wear the lobe off the cam?
One hose from pump outlet back to pump inlet. The air is just going in circles. The cam pump lobe shouldn't see any more wear than usual.
just block the thing off and keep drivin till you figure out a better solution as far as fake or dummy pumps thats your decision and as far as someone given you a hard time about it, tell them it's for sale and they can build it how they want to.
Sorry, I must have mis understood your first reply...when you mentioned the 3rdgen F-bodys, I ***umed you were speaking of the EFI ones, I'd actually forgot they could be carb'ed up through about '86 or so. My mistake
What engine? I had one (mechanical) on my FED (sbc which came out of my "daily" cruiser 66 Nova) and made 621 hp with it and never a starting or driving issue. I would understand if it is a "non-performance" parts available engine. ????
you can and should put in a safety relay, one one that shuts down the pump in the abscence of ignition pulses is the best, if the motor stops,the pump turns off, also late model cars have the impact sensor and the same sensor turns off the pump in the event of a rollover.I posted a thread on using one from a common import, but the thread was closed because i said the I word, they work, the relay is small and can be hidden behind the dash, and it can save your life.
I've been thinking about doing this with my brakes also. Mounting power brake booster under the floor, but leaving the old master cylinder on the firewall with the brake lines going to nothing basically..
86-89 honda accords, gray box plugged into the back of the under dash fuse box,you can attach spade lugs to the relay after unplugging it, power for pump in, power to pump out,ground, and a wire that goes to the negative terminal on the coil, the relay looks for ignition pulses at the coil,if they stop,so does the fuel pump. supposed to have a start up delay to prime the carb, but i've always used a primer ****on,this is connected between pump power and pump with a momentary contact switch. the earlier boxes will work too,but 89 was the last year for carb honda stuff,
Blocking off the unneeded fuel pump hole with a finned aluminium plate was traditional... I can see where your trying to go with it and it isn't such a bad thing...just a bit over thought. Leaving something like an old master cylinder in place is a bit too far though in my opinion. Kinda like..."I'll add one of those funny little, hi-tech, rack steering thingies to my Vega mount and then run a dummy cowl steering linkage too, to make people think I'm Kool! Hey...it's no big deal... I have an extra idler shaft left over from my dummy 6-71 BLOWER anyway!"
"One word of caution is that if the original (old) pump diaphragm develops a leak from the modern gas (not too uncommon), the electric pump can and will pump the crankcase full of fuel with no outwardly signs of a problem obviously wiping out the engine with gas diluted oil." This happened to me with a Chris-Craft flathead six (same as MoPar), however, caught it just in time to keep from lunching the engine.
Pulled apart one of my old pumps last night, I can make it work pretty easily. Don't think I can squeeze a fuel filter in there but there is a screen in the sediment bowl at the bottom. I can put a plate in where the diaghram is in addition to the block off plate I had planned between the pump and timing cover so no worries about gas in the oil. Thanks for all the replies, pro AND con!
Here's a nice primer ****on. Looks like a Ford from 49-50 and earlier. Has two terminals though. My Edelbrock does ok 2-3 days after you've driven it, but after that it needs a shot of prime. A fuel pressure gauge with isolater is a great thing to have on board. You can hear the pressure come up as the fuel pump slows down. Even so, watching it on the gauge is convenient. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ My 32 started running rough last summer during the Route 66 Fun Run. The pressure gauge showed a couple # high so I went back to one of the staging areas, pulled the blank Holley byp*** jet out of the byp*** pill holder, put in one with a through-hole and things were fine. A new regulator later on cured the problem. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The primer ****on is fed from the ignition switch. I know someone is going to wonder about all the fuses in the seat riser/fuse panel. Twenty of them and about 6 or 7 more under the seat. The car is wired aircraft style. Each device has it's own fuse. Left high beam has a fuse, left stoplight has a fuse etc. Never did agree that you lose every light in the car due to a problem on one circuit....
My 46 ford used an electric pump run through a dad pump. Gave it the stock look and the dependability of getting gas to the motor. How can anyone piss on that concept?
The beauty of an engine compartment really is in the details. You may be on to something. Before you know it people will be fabbing manifolds to add 2 or 4 or 6 mechanical fuel pumps...
Thought about doing this with a flathead engine. Wanted the look (don't ask why I do/did) and wanted to use the sediment bowl filter. Took an old one apart, removed the arm and plunger, made a plate that sandwiched between the two halves (fuel runs through the top half only), made a gasket and put it back together. Would have worked fine, but it was not advised to pull the pushrod without turning the pushrod bushing in the block. Thought is oil would splash up into the intake area and it would disrupt its normal oil flow for a flathead.
Ya' just had to drag this one up didn't you? A dumb idea preserved for eternity etched in "digital stone"............ Be careful what you post on the intenet it can come back to haunt you.
So are you saying you didn't do it after all? I have thought of doing the same thing on my 289 in my T because the engine is sitting out in the open. But have decided against it mechanical pump work just fine. I have only had one fuel pump quit on me in 45 years of driving.
Who you talking too? No i didn't. Same, mechanical works great and I didn't what to pull the intake again just to do it. Just a brainfart I guess.
I never got the whole "I want to run a **** load of after market, but then it won't look original" deal. What should I do? This is simple...If you want to make it original...RUN ORIGINAL!
I guess you could say it's the same as running a new engine with old valve covers on it or disc brakes inside of backing plates or covers. Best way I can explain it.
Quote: <TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset" cl***=alt2>Originally Posted by Hyway Hauler I never got the whole "I want to run a **** load of after market, but then it won't look original" deal. What should I do? This is simple...If you want to make it original...RUN ORIGINAL! </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> Never done neither...so I still don't get it.
It was a question you posted, its too bad that it was people with big at***udes that had to answer. Opinions are like ***holes, everyone's got one. It still gets down to the basics.. its your build.. build for you and **** the rest.
Well to HOPEFULLY put the last nail in this thread's coffin............. I'm keeping the mechanical pump and dumping the Performer for a 390cfm Holley. Screw appearances, I just want to drive it! In the words of my generation, "Joke 'em if they can't take a ****!"
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