my brother got a fix-it ticket for the busted windshield on his Studebaker,since Arnold the Governator needs $50 all added up,ticket,gl***,gasket,and shipping $550 no money left to pay someone to install it
this is actually not that hard to do, I did it myself and it went surprisingly well. take the trim off, then see if the weatherstrip is glued. if yes, you gotta cut it out and get a new one. if no you might be able to pop it out and reuse it. then put gl*** in the weatherstrip . run a cord (like parachute line or something alike) through the channel that will hold it in place in the windshield, tie a knot and let that hang out in the bottom. put the first bit of the rubber in place, and then pull the cord and press the gl***. done!
Take the inside trim out, use something to loosen the rubber from the body lip and from the gl*** - it's broke, so a screwdriver will do - spray the works down with some water with dish soap - put on some sneakers, put the seat all the way back, sit in the middle, and use both feet to push it out gently from the top at the corners. You have to position yourself like your girlfreind or wife would be, legs in the air, but it's a lot easier to use those muscles than to try to push with your arms. It's going to break more because it's already busted, but don't worry about that. Then what he said, use a cord on the new gasket. Way easier to have one guy push while one guy pulls the cord. If you pull the cord out by accident, you can use a small screwdriver with care to pull the lip of the rubber back (one of those paint can lid openers is ideal) until you get back to where the cord is. The stainless trim probably goes on and off the rubber when it's out of the car, don't even try to take it off while it's on.
For what it's worth, here's a pic of what the string does. To the left of the string, is the rubber lip that has been pulled into place. To the right of the string, the rubber lip is outside the car and needs to be pulled in over the metal lip. Basically pulling the string pulls the rubber lip inward, over the metal lip of the window opening. The string let's you pull the lip in an efficient way, instead of going inch by inch, and pulling the rubber lip in a separate motion with something like the paint can opener someone else mentioned. As the previous poster mentioned, when you are pulling the string, someone outside should push on the spot where the string is moving the rubber lip in place.
Take the string (a thin cord is good-too thick is too big, too small will cut the gasket) and take it by the mid-point. Put the center of the string in the center of the TOP of the gasket/seal. You want the ends of the string to meet at the center BOTTOM of the gasket. Try to get the WS as centered as possible when you set it up in the frame. As you begin to slowly and evenly pull the ends, they will lift the gasket over the metal lip that is part of the body. That is a good picture Mike posted. Don't get too far ahead of the fitment. Use your stick to keep the rubber over the lip. I like to start at the bottom because the winshield will want to settle downward, and you might as well use gravity instead of fight it. Use a lot of soapy water, and I strongly encourage you to use a piece of wood-(like a paint stick), instead of a screwdriver. Lots less chance of cracking the gl***. You can strike the gl*** to move it a little, use the flat of you hand and don't try to John Wayne it. The corners can be tricky, but yours are all in the same plane, so should be a piece of cake. Good luck-wish I was closer, the job won't take 10 minutes once you get the string loaded. Be sure to KNOW if some or all of the stainless trim has to go on the gasket BEFORE the windshield goes in. 55-57 Chevys have to have the upper trim installed with the gl***, for example.
Pretty sure the trim comes out WITH the gl*** and goes back in WITH the gl*** as well! You'll garf it all up if you try to take it out FIRST.
Like what was mentioned, don't use a screwdriver. There is a handy tool that works very well and you will see how handy it is and that is cotter pin tool; it looks sort of like a screw driver that was ground down to a point on the end; and then the end twisted. It will help you where ever you need to pull the gasket through on the inside of the pinch weld. The only other thing that I would add, that wasn't mentioned is have someone help you at first. I'll usually have my wife or someone else help. Set the windshield with the rope installed in the opening over; and try to get the gasket to align with the pinch weld. Have your helper start pulling the rope while you watch. After the gasket starts going over the pinch weld, help it along by pulling down on the gl*** to help it fit. If you don't get the gl*** sitting down right, it will be harder to rope in the top. Don't be scared to start over and don't put any excess pressure on the gl***, you can break it.
Most guys don't use any sealer, but I hate to tell you not to. If it is the kind of seal that goes over the pinchweld, (thanks fordcragar), I think there is very little chance of water getting in. Is the trim held on with clips or does it fit in a groove in the seal? If it goes in a groove in the seal, beter put it in with the gl***.
fits in the groove. so I should probably cut away as much of the old seal from the inside and then push it all out,gl***,seal,and trim together,right? I'm still waiting to see if the studebaker club forum guys might get me a photocopy or scan of the instructions,but I'm not holding my breath
Hung around a old time gl*** shop a bit and they always used "GOOP" brand handcleaner for lube. I've done a few my self using various lubes and the GOOP works the best and cleans up with water. As said push out the W/S with the trim still in the gasket,after it is out you can tell better is it is replaced after the W/S is installed or not. By the way driving with a W/S that bad is dumb,no whining for that ticket. PS My 65 Ranchero the trim went in after the gl*** was in the car,fit in a groove in the gasket.
If you go back to my earlier post, I mentioned the cotter pin puller tool; use that to help loosen the old gasket. Have someone, sit in the seat and push the windshield out with their feet , while you use the tool to pull the gasket away. Whatever you do, don't wreck/cut the old gasket until you have the gl*** installed; you might need it.
I'm flying out on Saturday for a conference in Monterey. I can swing by on my way to the hotel if you want.
I think dave a32flathead has painted a wheel on his car he might be able to tell who in san jose can help you out!!!
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