I just bought an ECI disk kit, and am just having time to get it installed. I had finished putting the rotor on the spindle and placed the caliper on when I figured out something horrid; the steering arm is getting in the way where it attaches to the tie rod. It's actually the castle nut/bolt that's preventing me from being able to insert the lower mounting bolt. Here's a photo: Please excuse my ****py cell phone photo at dusk! The only thing I have considered is taking off the tie rod, putting the mounting bolt in, then putting the tie rod back on. However, I'm *very* concerned that I wouldn't be able to put it back because now the rod's bolt would be blocked by the caliper's. Has anyone else had this issue, and if so....or if you haven't and know what the solution is, please instruct this noob Best! Adam
Contact ECI on Monday and ask them how to approach this problem. Might as well ask the experts who developed the kit how it's done. Just my $.02 Good luck with your project!
Therein lies the rub.....I busted my **** today to get all of the house renovations done I had planned for the weekend, so I could spend all day tomorrow finishing installing the brake kit. Hopefully someone on here knows, but with my luck, even if they do, there will probably be nothing I can do till Monday either way. That's how my karma/chi/what-the-hell-ever rolls!
Cant help you much because your picture is not real great but I just put dropped uprights and the ECI kit in my 50 and had no problem. I used dropped steering arms also, are you using the stock arms? If so that could be why they are in the way. You can also move the brackets so the caliper mounts on the front of the spindle instead of the rear, ( by flipping them and swiching sides)
This may not have anything to do with your application, but, can the brackets be switched side to side? I've installed a few aftermarket disc kit's ( no ECI though) that allow for the calipers to mount either in front or rear of the spindle centerline.. Is it possible they are on the wrong side causing the interference? I'm NOT at all doubting your skill's so please don't take that the wrong way, just brainstorming from my past experience..nothing more. Best of luck with solving the problem. Tony
Perhaps they could be switched, but I followed the instructions when mounting them....along with the photo tutorial from Dr.Dave. Dude...GO AHEAD and doubt my skills, this is my first restoration! I wish someone would have looked at it and said "Man, your ignernt a$$ has it wrong!" Yeah, sorry the pic is lame. I'll take a better one tomorrow. Can you put dropped steering arms on without the dropped uprights? I am indeed using the stock arms....but the kit, nor did anyone at ECI mention it being a problem when I told them everything else was going to be stock. Is it safe to switch out the brackets like that?
Naa, i wouldn't doubt someone i don't know .. Beside's, being ignorant would be not asking for help when you get stumped. If you followed what they suggested then chances are the're on the right sides.. Hope ya get it figured out.
You dont want to put dropped steering arms on unless you put dropped uprights in it messes with the angle of the steering arms, and like I mentioned you can mount the caliper forward( actually I think that is the prefered method) just switch sides and flip them.
Duly noted on the dropped steering arms...that's out of my budget now, anyway. If I don't get anywhere with taking the tie rod off, then mounting the caliper, I'll do the switcheroo like you mentioned. The preferred method (per their instructions at least) was how I'm attempting to do it now, mounted on the rear. It makes no real difference to me, as long as it works and is just as safe
I found this posted by ECIGUY in regards to a guy with a 40s Ford, perhaps the same will hold true for me....if nothing else, it just proves to me that I'm not losing my mind At least not from this! "There are several different types of rod ends out there, some are smaller size wise. Yours may be bigger than the one that we use for prototyping, but it isn't worth changing. Try removing the cross steering link rod end from the spindle and install the caliper mounting bolt. You can then re-install the rod end and it should clear. Other alternative is to heat and bend the steering arm down a hair, but the first method should work.If not give me a call."
So I took the tie rod off this morning and was able to successfully put the caliper on...HOWEVER, it is now impossible to remount the rod....bwa bwa bwaaaaa Any other ideas?
We have found that there are some slight variations in the steering arms used on the 49-54 chevy's. To solve your problem remove the rear steering arm bolt, (they can be installed with the nut inside the rotor)swing the steering arm down and install the caliper mounting bolt. Re-install the bolt and your done.
Hey Ross, did you get it? I did use dropped uprights and steering arms, so I didn't have the clearance problem you did. Hopefully the advice above got ya covered?
I sure did, although my solution was a little different from ECIGUY's. I didn't really want to remove the bracket and go back to square one. I took the castle nut off of the steering arm and knocked the tie rod out. I then put the castle nut in place on top of the steering arm, as if it were already seated, I then re-inserted the tie rod bolt through the steering arm until it got to the cusp of the top of the hole. I then began threading the castle nut, in essence, pulling the tie rod bolt up through the hole and into place. After that, I was able to put the caliper back on and run the caliper bolts through successfully. It's still almost touching the tie rod bolt, but it fits. This image is of the other side, but exact same process. DONE! And no...my car is not sitting on the tires. That's my "oh s**t" option should my jackstands sink into the pavement and my jack magically disappear. Needless to say I have a healthy fear of being crushed by my car.
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