Six Cyl GM Electronic Distributor Conversion

Pics from above:

 

More pics couldnt beat the time outs??






Did i forget to mention we have a few of these module housings made up. $35 shipped to your door....

 

i have been told a number of times NOT to use dielectric grease on them, but to you the heat transfer white past. the Die grease will hold the heat in the module more than the heat past. yes it works but i have been told and read that its not the best wat to go..... and thoughts on this?

 

thats awsome. i love those old gm distributors where you can adjust the poins by opening that little window but you dont need to worry about theat with the hei plus the coil and distributor are all in one pack

 

Jim, is that the pickup unit mopar? I read twice and am still somewhat confused. (Nice tech too) If it's a mopar I've backed into the same system for my hemi using a pre-leanburn mopar electronic distributor, with an ebay bracket to mount an HEI module on the bottom. Hidden by the vacuum advance can. Points look with HEI sparking power and no external module.

 

looks like i have a new project for both projects. i am sure you will see a frantic PM from me sometime in the future.

Good pics and easy to follow directions.

HAMBers like you make this site what its supposed to be.

 

I agree that you can overdo both. I use the supplied white past when i have it and also use a small ampunt of dielectric when i dont.
The grease helps fill in the ill-regular surface to help heat transfer.
The correct number from napa is tpl45 i believe.

 

Yes a stock mopar pickup coil .
I just did a early hemi and used the stock hemi dual point and just swaped the internal parts from a late model chrysler unit the parts are almost a direct screw in. Only drilled one hole to make it work. Looks just like the stock unit and we used a remote hei module under he dash of a model A.

 

Bubba, this thread is just what I was looking for. I'm trying to set up a distributor for a retro tech 4.3 chev V6 and I need a non computer dist.,that is a small diameter, and was hopeing to convert a early chev V8 to a 6 cyl. configueration. Am I just dreaming,or is this out in left feild. I've looked at after market distributors,but this seems a more affordable way for me. . Feel free to PM or post any advice or comment.

............... Thanks ..Jack

 

TIMING IS EVERYTHING !! (no pun intended)
I just happen to have this exact project laying here as we speak. In my case i had a freeby 2.8L out of a S-10 and the wed crew rebuilt it with new rings , aftermarket camshaft etc. Came with a 4 speed od auto and all the engine.
I plan on doing a mallory just for looks etc. Going in a 1920 Dodge roadster ojn the lift now.
I will write it up when i get er done.....

 

Bubba, thanks for the prompt reply. Will a 2.8 distributor fit in a4.3? My 4.3 is a mix of parts. It came out of a '86 S 10 4x4, it has a '99 0r newer long block/ internal balance shaft,is running '86 Vortec heads. I've replaced the E.F.I. intake with a early cast iron intake 4 barrel manifold. I've also trashed the surpentine belt system,and replaced it with a V belt and short water pump. This whole set up is going in my '26 lakes modified. I was a little stumped on the dist.at least I've got a path to follow now.

Thanks again ...........Jack

 

Now you have done it , making me think (headache).
Actually i just chucked a stock HEI unit in the distributor machine and verified the pos , neg placement with a lab scope. Then duplicated the same thing with the chrysler pickup leads in the chevy housing.
Now ya got me wondering if i wrote it correctly etc. I will get some scope waves next week and post the correct polarity of both the stock hei and the chrysler.

I have your crab article hanging on my wall and have been thinking about doing one or two of those as well. Do you make and sell the parts to do this on the crab unit ???

 

It appears the V6-4.3 engine uses a V8 housing with six parts. Looking at the pics i think that the housing, drive gear etc is the same as the chevy V8.
The 2.8 is in a world all its own ( not like i thought).

A early mallory chevy V8 unit would convert out with chrysler parts and use a flat mallory black sealed cap for a six cylinder . Look good in a track roadster.
I will look around for some parts.......

 

Thanks Bubba, looks like that Ebay dist. might be just be what I need. I'll know in about 44 hours.

thanks again for your help. ........,Jack

 

I don't really have the small brackets and such detailed enough to be able to make up a kit of parts or even to modify someones distributor in a reasonable amount of time to make it feasible for sale. I did one for someone a while back and had forgotten how much time the little details took. So its no for now. Sorry.

 

I have a 1954 Chevy 3100 with a 235 from a 1958-59 Chevy truck. How does this conversion work? How much will it cost for my application?

The electrical system is the original 6V. I would like to get better performance. I just finished installing the engine and transmission. Now I'm working on the electrical. I haven't cranked the engine yet ... so my fingers are crossed at this point.

 

Thanks for a great thread. I see that phasing is covered, but I still have a couple of questions. Should I set it up so that the reluctor is DIRECTLY centered over the pickup ? Likewise, do you set it up so that the Rotor is directly centered under each brass contact in the distributor cap, or do you want it at the "beginning" of the path under it? (both seem to dwell a bit)

 

The reluctor/stator is press fit to the distributor cam in line with the orginal cam lobes. The teeth on the reluctor will then look just like the orginal cam lobe did.
The pickup is aligned with the old contact point rubbing block.
I clean up the plate and install the plate and contact points and draw a line acroos the plate lined up with the rubbing block. Then remove the points and install the pickup with that line.
I also check the KV out put with a lab scope on new units to confirm the rotor phase is ok.

 

This mean the I dunno, 3, 4, 6 or so early Chevy distributors I have laying around aren't completely worthless now?

 

How does the use of the GM module and a late module mopar dizzy work for the early chrysler hemi's. I have a 1952 331 chrysler that I was going to use the orange box and harness from an early 70's mopar, but GMCBubba's set up seems so much easier. Am I missing something? If there has been a thread on this already, please advise me and I'll research it as well. Thanks.

 

I have a Bubba Conversion for my 55 Desoto 291. If you can read simple instructions, then you can convert your 331 to electronic as well. His stuff works and I won't let anyone else do my ignitions but him..

 

Anybody done a HEI ignition conversion to a bedford 300ci engine

 

I'm not sure where you are but I have used this bloke in Australia a few times. He knows his stuff and likes a challenge.
VINTAGE RACING DEVELOPMENTS.

 

I did the Chrysler conversion on my 235 straight 6.

Discard points and condenser,


End up with clean breaker plate.


I got the 6 reluctor and mag pickup from tyhe junk yard. Also shown is thew 8 cyl reluctor. Can't remember if the reluctor slipped on the Chevy shaft or if the shaft had to be turned. No biggie either way.


Cut a notch in housing for the wire pass-through


Get an old distributor cap and cut a window to help place the pickup coil on the breaker plate.


It is a rewally easy conversion and works great, all you need more is the Chyrsler electronivc module. I add an MSD5 module too.


I put a Chrysler A-LA engine distributor on my 331 hemi. Bolts right on, just need to weld a 1/4" tab on the end of the shaft.

 

Hi,I sent you a message both on here and e mail.Do you have a replacement Vacuum advance for electronic mallory looks like Bosch style , Thank you