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Customs scraping driveshaft

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by The Toast, Jun 13, 2009.

  1. The Toast
    Joined: Nov 21, 2005
    Posts: 18

    The Toast
    Member

    I have a 50 ford dropped with Jamco dropped spindles shorter cut Jamco springs up front and jamco de-arched springs with blocks in the rear . I sits the way I want . But I started to have transmission fluid leak putting it up on the lift it looks as though the transmission meets the u joint and drive shaft at too radical angle. That the driveshaft now should be about 3 inches higher to meet at the proper angle. Is there anything I can do other than raise the drive shaft hump ( floor)?

    I need your help with this one, a friend said he heard you could use 4X4 angled blocks and change the degree..??

    Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
     
  2. roughidle
    Joined: Feb 1, 2009
    Posts: 549

    roughidle
    BANNED
    from iowa

    Can you change the pinion angle?
     
  3. 29NashRod
    Joined: Jan 18, 2009
    Posts: 66

    29NashRod
    Member
    from Portland

    I'm not quite sure I understand what the problem is. Pics might help? Is it possible that the car is dropped so much that the transmission slip yoke is bottoming out on the seal? Is there any vibration or noise? More info would help.
     
  4. kwoodyh
    Joined: Apr 11, 2006
    Posts: 641

    kwoodyh
    Member

    Pinion angle needs checked and adjusted, also drive shaft may be bottoming out in the rear of the ******! EZ PZ!
     
  5. The Toast
    Joined: Nov 21, 2005
    Posts: 18

    The Toast
    Member

    Well I put the shoebox on the lift at the local mechanics garage. The drive shaft is basically against the floor rubbing and the angle of the shaft is not in a straight line. It looks like it needs to be 3 inches higher. I wish there was a way to change the angle but I don't know how someone told me angled blocks. But the is no room to move up. Possibly I will have to bit the bullet and move the tunnel up 3 inches... damn
     
  6. evolvo
    Joined: May 18, 2009
    Posts: 144

    evolvo
    Member
    from Seattle

    First off, we need picture, and lots of them. Second, you want the drive shaft itself to be straight, but you don't want it in a straight line between the pinion and tailshaft. There needs to be 2* to 4* of offset so the needles in the u-joints will rotate and not wind up brinneling the bearing caps. Is the shaft rubbing near the front or near the rear, WE NEED PHOTOS!!
     
  7. scottybaccus
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 4,109

    scottybaccus
    Member

    You added dropped spindles to dropped springs that you cut to drop some more, then you added dropped blocks to dropped springs to drop it in the back, so you just kept dropping it in total disregard for the manufacturer's design and dropped all that engineering in the trash and now you can't understand what's wrong? Hmmmm.

    Try using a well engineered product as intended. You have exceeded the limits of a stock suspension design with stock floors and tunnel. You have no idea if your driveline angles are acceptable and now it is self destructing. But it looks good!

    Remove the lowering blocks and the suspension should be as Jamco intended with those springs. If you don't like that, consider having a new system engineered that will be as low as you want without dropping safety and reliability.
     
  8. badsco
    Joined: Jun 11, 2009
    Posts: 104

    badsco
    Member

    All other points aside, the angled blocks may help with your floor clearance issue. If you angle the driveshaft yoke down with the angled blocks, the driveshaft will essentially drop too.
    Will this allow your current setup to work as a whole - hard to say. While it may relieve the angle at the trans and the rubbing on the floor, it may make the angle worse or unusable at the rear.


     

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