Carb "Feet"

I learned a new trick just today while re-building a carburetor. The tip came from old-time hot rod racer Tom Tangeman. This new knowlege helped my re-build go much easier. Perhaps this is common knowledge here, but, it was new to me so I thought I would share.



Tom showed me how to put a same-sized bolt in each corner of the carb to give it "Feet".



This way you are able to stand it up to work the linkages & ****er-fly valves. Much better than sitting the carb on a block of wood like I used to do.

Talk to the old Guys... You can learn a lot from them!

 

Old trick, but I'm sure there are "youngins" that haven't seen it before.

 

I am an old one ,but thank you for sharing that feet trick.

 

I was taught that trick when I was 13 years old..
I didnt use it all that much until I got older.

I have some neat blocks of hard wood with the stud pattern for the Q-jets 4 BBl, and one with a smaller pattern for Harley carbs (as you can imagine that are smaller so more difficult to get a sure grip on them)
The studs come out of the wood and have nuts and washers up about an inch or two above the wood. Stick the carb on its bolt pattern, and put the top nuts on and tighten down a bit and there you have a carb Holder/ Vice.

 

Same here. I got a piece of 2" wood with carb studs on it and some washers and nuts.

 

If you get an electric high idle solenoid and start hittin switches it'll hop.

Valve cover races........whatever. I see the next big thing at shows. Hoppin gold plated carbs.

 

I have know about that since the late 60's !

 

And you make it look so smart !! >>>>.

 

Carburetor stands are always useful.

The method suggested by the initial poster works well; however the bolts tend to slide on one's workshop bench if given an opportunity.

While commercial stands are not overly expensive; one can custom make one's own stand by modifying the method used by the poster only slightly.

Start with a piece of two inch wood. Draw the flange mounting holes on the wood, and using a wood bit slightly larger than the head of the bolt, drill into the wood from the bottom slightly further than the thickness of the bolt head. Now finish the hole with a bit just slightly larger than the diameter of the bolt.

Install the bolts from the under side of the block, and use one nut to tighten each bolt to the block. Then use the technique of the original poster to hold the carb flange. The block will sit flat on the workbench without squirming around, and has sufficient m*** to hold up a carb that would otherwise be unstable (like a one-barrel with only two mounting bolts).

Always more fun when you make it yourself rather than purchase.

Jon.

 

Offy used to make a nice one...flat casting with numerous holes and a set of legs that could be arranged to suit. I like mine, except that it lacks a leg socket for 3-bolt carbs. Is it still available? Seems like ancient chunks of aluminum and carburetors go together so well...

 

Well I learnt somthing new thanks for that

 

I've always used four old intake/exhaust valves, slip a set-collar on each one and you can adjust the height.