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loc-tite and anti-sieze...when and where?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by negativeMatt, Jun 20, 2009.

  1. since there are alot of us on here building our first hot rods and customs, i thought this might be a good topic.

    i'm REALLY close to driving my truck for the first time, but not too far in to make corrections and adjustments before i hit the streets. i saw a "biker build-off" re-run the other day and the builder forgot to put loc-***e on, and his bike started to rattle apart, and that got me thinking. when and where do you use loc-***e and anti-sieze? i know about the engine stuff, but what other places is it crucial to use?

    might be a good place to stockpile this information...
     
  2. red3
    Joined: Mar 14, 2009
    Posts: 186

    red3
    Member

    I saw the same show, afterward I went out and started checking out my pick up. I dont use mutch loc-***e but I use the hell out of lock washers.
     
  3. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

    I've used anti-sieze on anything that sees heat or corrosion. Stainless threads esp. Then you want to either safety wire (suspension stuff), or lock washer or captive thread nut it, and torque it correctly. Lock***e, on steering gear.
     
  4. Larry T
    Joined: Nov 24, 2004
    Posts: 7,921

    Larry T
    Member

    No Loc***e on anything you are gonna double check the torque on. No Red Loc***e on anything that you'll EVER want to remove. I use quite a bit of Blue Loc***e on bike stuff, but not so much on anything on a car unless it vibrates loose.
    Anti-seize on lug nuts, sparkplugs, any stainless fastener.
    That's a start. You might browse over this too.
    Larry T
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Iceberg460
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 880

    Iceberg460
    Member

    On the newer stuff I work on at the dealership I'll put loc-***e on driveshaft flange bolts on just about anything that spins, or on any suspension hardware that doesn't use locknuts or cotter pins. Anti-sieze between the rotor or drum and the hub, on lug studs, exhaust bolts, o2 sensors, sparkplugs and any thing else that sees heavy rust.
     
  6. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,799

    flatford39
    Member

    Front harmonic balancer needs blue loc ***e. I lost one once while towing my 39 coupe home. What a mess it made.
     
  7. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 25,192

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    don't forget antiseize on spark plugs in an aluminum head. get one stuck, break it and have the piece finally fall into the cylinder after 2 hours trying to remove it and you will always use antisieze after that.
     
  8. Harry Bergeron
    Joined: Feb 10, 2009
    Posts: 345

    Harry Bergeron
    Member
    from SoCal

    They make a product for mounting bearings, too, originally for situations where the fit with the race is a little loose. There are plenty of these places on old iron! Google "bearing mount" loc***e.

    Be aware that Loc***e is really a military and aviation product, with mil-specs for each and every useage. These change from time to time, and surplus/obsolete product goes on the market at the 99 Cent store and Harbor Fright, like the 271 I just got.
     
  9. racerjohnson
    Joined: Oct 3, 2006
    Posts: 178

    racerjohnson
    Member
    from Fargo, ND

    Anti-sieze is to be used wherever there is corrosion from dissimilar metals coming in contact with each other ie. steel spark plug threads in aluminum heads like 49ratfink said.

    I wouldn't trust lock washers as a locking device. They still act as washers though. Sorry red3. Carroll Smith will vouch for me in his books.

    Proper bolt stretch usually obtained by properly torquing the fastener is what is supposed to keep fasteners from coming loose. Vibration is a tricky deal though.
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2009
  10. Speedwagen
    Joined: Aug 3, 2006
    Posts: 753

    Speedwagen
    Member

    This might be a little off topic, I just did some test compairing loc-***e thread locker to an off brand.
    The off brand guy says his stuff is as good or better than loc***e and cheaper.

    I blow off and say, man I've been using loc***e on race cars since you were in paper pants---It's the best!

    He says maybe Used to be--but that was before the went to China to have there stuff brewed up.

    He said there is less active thread locking agent, and the shelf life is more critical.

    So I did the test... sure enough the Lock***e was inferior in performance.

    Something to think about...
     
  11. racerjohnson
    Joined: Oct 3, 2006
    Posts: 178

    racerjohnson
    Member
    from Fargo, ND

    and. . . what is this mystery off-brand?
     
  12. Shifty Shifterton
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 4,964

    Shifty Shifterton
    Member

    Pretty much anything that doesn't get loc***e, gets antiseize. That's my rule. As mentioned bolt stretch from proper tightness should maintain torque over time, and the anti-seize will mean it can be dis***embled with ease.

    I have some anti-seize crayon that's awesome when the concern is just rust, not dissimilar metals. It's low performance as real anti-seize, and there's a 30 year old bottle of permatex anti-seize for times that really require it. But all the other stuff, exhaust hangers, bumper & body bolts, seat bolts, etc...they get a little dab from the crayon. It also acts as a thread lubricant to help get accurate torques.

    good luck.

    Oh yeah, who is the offbrand? Permatex?
     

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