Customs Candy paint questions...

yes that may be true with the top of the finish. but the depth of the kandy is all in the midcoat.

not to mention if u wanted to spend the time, u could block the F out of urethane clear from 600 up and get it flat as a pankcake if u wanted. but no one really does.

once again, nothing beats a lacquer black. but a properly dun urethane kandy> lacquer kandy.

 

I know a guy out here that uses Urethane candy colors,and his paint comes out looking miles deep.I say that it isn't the difference between urethane or lacquer paint,it's if the painter has or doesn't have the skills.A true master of his craft can work with anything,and make it work.

This guy is local in Riverside,and does some of the most amazing stuff I've seen,out of his house.He utilizes all different mediums for paint.
http://www.myspace.com/dreamweaverskustomkolors

 

I know you already saw this but I out it in a thread... Hopefully today I can push it out in the sun. If we have any.

It's all about the pink primer...

 

With going to water based paint do they still do candy paints? Can they? I want to paint my car Candy Apple Red.

 

ok,,, i guess if i want a great candy paintjob,, i'll have to do it myself..sand,,sand,,sand...used to do work for "molly" in '70's,,,sand,, sand,,sand...but i'm getting kind of old...
that or just have "erl shieb" do the da*% work and not worry about how it looks....
....but isn't that why candy's were for??? to be different from all those "erl" jobs .. to be unique... to stand out...
sure you "could " make stock paint look good,,,,
..........BUT CANDY IS CANDY..!!!!!.......

 

waiting on the sun..

 

Chopolds, I get it bro. You're right in what you're saying. You can obviously 'see' what I'm talking about when you look at a finish. We won't banter that around any more.

Here's an old trick I used to do, and admittedly most of my kandy experience was on bikes vs cars, but it worked on cars too. You get the metallic base on the surface. Gently sand that down with 1200 just a bit to level the 'bumps' in the poly (I always prefered fine bases). Over-reduce the poly base and lower the air pressure substantially, like 10-15psi on a gravity HVLP. Spray a nice semi-wet coat of the poly to even it all up and cover the 1200 marks then go straight to clear on the next coat. Apply 2 or 3 depending on your style. This locks the base down and will keep it from moving around under the kandy or midcoat. Whether or not to sand the clear depends agin on your style of application. If you reduce it a bit it lays down real nice. Nib out the dust and go for the kandy. I won't waste the time explaining how to apply it as everyone has a gig that works for them. The end result is a nice deep color that has all the 'flop' you could ask for.

 

I get it, like flow-clearing with basecoat. "Flow-basing." Do you use an intercoat or a full-on clear to lock it down?

 

Great idea! Thanks for the tip.
Billy...I don't think the idea is really to flo-coat it, though. On a good candy job, if the base isn't nice and even...and also FLAT, you can get areas where the candy can pool up and you get dark spots. I'm not talking about big areas...more like pinholes or larger.
By clearcoating the base, you create an flat surface so the candy can go on more evenly, on a micro level. I'm guessing that you'd use basecoat formula clear, like SG-100, so the candy urethane doesn't remelt it and disturb it. First time I tried the PPG candies, they were making the basecoat a catalyzed type paint, so the candy would remelt it and reflow the metallics. Never used it again, though I heard they changed the metallic base to a basecoat formula.
See that, you can still learn things after painting for 30+ years!

 

I'm glad you guys caught that. 'olds, you can ideed use a urethane clear (or lacquer if it's a lacquer job...rare!), and that re-melt you speak of is the magic that makes it work. It bites into the clear instead of the base and makes it easier to track the overlaps n stuff. If you reduce the 'thane clear just a bit you can also keep film build in line and speed things up just a bit. SG-100 or DBC500 clear bases are ok but I found it took extra coats to 'protect' the base. Again I prefer really fine bases for candies because it comes out looking like almost 3D and fine metallic bases are easily disturbed.

 

Ok gotcha, I missed the semi-wet coat portion. Good tip Highlander, thanks a lot.

 

yes u can do candy in waterborne and waterbased. a buddy of mine did a blend on a yamaha mc color that was a candy. looked good. once u get used to water, painting becomes a whole lot easier.

 

i think you are wrong you got a cleaner , clearer color with the lacquer

 

While you're indeed correct (confirmed by the lab at PPG HQ) there's still downsides to the nostalgic finish we all remember. Maintainence and temp extremes are just the beginning. Any car done in lacquer needs to be treated like a thouroghbred race horse. Controled storage, regular waxing and polishing, and a constant flow of water when washed to avoid the dreaded 'cobwebs'. That's only if you wish to keep it looking like it's 1st day for as long as possible. I just had a lacquer car out to a show Sunday. Lotta work.

 

I'm thinking root beer for my fleetline.