muncie 4spd???

i am putting a small block and muncie 4spd im my 1936 ford truck and would like to use a hydraulic throw out bearing has any one used one of these if so what would i need to get to use this

 

Hyd throw out bearings can be a touch to set up (they are generally fixed to the can) lots of people use them in circle track cars. Probably be easier if you used a hydraulic cylinder on the outside to actuate the stock arm on a mechanical t-o bearing, that way you can see what is going on and adjust free play. Wilwood has them, piece of cake to hook up.

 

After having a couple cars with them, I completey hate them. I agree with oj that a slave cylinder would be better. If they go out on you, or if they leak, your damn clutch is done for... Ask me how I know.

 

had one go bad on my `96 s-10 that i bought new. of course the whole trans had to come out to fix it. in 44 years of driving stick shift cars, i've never had a "normal" throw out bearing go bad. i wonder who dreamed up this idea, besides the conpany / parts stores that sell the replacements hyd. ones for around $ 130.
i would never consider one for my hot rod.

 

MAN, I totally forgot how much the damn things cost, not to mention how hard the all to change and the fact you'd need a new clutch disc. I had them in AWD cars, you can IMAGINE how miserable that was.

 

I have a howe racing unit between my muncie and sbc. I like it. It has worked really well for me so far.

 

I have an hydraulic throw out on my sbc/muncie. Its the speedway motors one. The first one I replaced after 400 miles as it was leaking (they wouldnt warranty it as I had bought it a while before I used it). I reluctantly went with another speedway unit (I think they are actually howe brand?) as they had updated their design (preventing over extension) and I would otherwise have had to change either my headers or my under floor braking system to go external slave. So far so good with the new one, only 240 miles though. But also with the old one I pulled the engine trans out twice to adjust the shims and put in a remote bleeder - make sure you install a remote bleeder from the get go!

If I have any more issues, at all, I will go external and change my headers. I liked the look of this http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_hcrc.htm its kinda spendy but its a complete kit (its been talked about in hamb postings before).

thats my two cents.

 

thanks for the info that is just what i was looking for.yes i to want to keep my under floor braking and clutch!but has any body used the newer chevy truck (99 & newer)style bell housing that has the slave cylinder mounting machined into and if so will that mount up to the muncie trans?

 

From the other point of view:
Got an 8BA flathead with the truck adapter then the old standard adapter to a Chevy trans for the Muncie I have bolted to all of this. I used the stock '36 pedal ***y. with a homebuilt adapter to run a new hydraulic master cylinder but the clutch set-up is like stock. Haven't had the set up on the street very long, but it seems to work just fine and goes to the KISS program in being a direct mechanical hook up. I did not have one at the time, but I would recommend the old '39 Ford pedal ***y. to use the same clutch set up without the work I did to adapt a master cylinder to the brakes. My 2 cents.

PS, I can pull out tree trunk stumps with 1st gear of my Muncie. Beware and choose wisely your rearend ratio.