241 hemi?

astro zombies · Jul 10, 2006

sooo i bought my first project car and have alot of the parts lined up to start building it. i was seeing if anyone knows of a good coupany that has new/rebuilt parts for a 241 hemi. it is stock out of a 54 dodge coronet.

if anyone can help let me know. thank you

Gotgas · Jul 10, 2006

www.egge.com/

http://www.hothemiheads.com/

53sled · Jul 10, 2006

astro zombies said:

new/rebuilt parts for a 241 hemi.
Click to expand...

hothemiheads.com egge.com and don't forget google.com

Circus Bear · Jul 10, 2006

PAW has a ton of hemi stuff also.

http://www.earlyhemiengineparts.com/

RacerRick · Jul 10, 2006

Rebuild kits for these baby hemis are about $1200 if memory serves me right. You will have to regrind the cam to get a hotter grind, and the only currently availble intake is the three duece offy. The only available pistons are 7:1 factory stockers unless you go custom.

HotHemiHeads, PAW, Kanter, and Egge all have parts for these Red Rams.

There are a couple of tricks you can do to make it a stouter motor.

1 - port the heads. On the port walls, just clean them up and removed casting flash. Where you want to really do your grinding is on the valve guides. They are m***ive and take up most of the port, choking flow. You can take a ton of material off these and it really makes these dodges breath better.

2 - regrind the cam to a mild grind with around 210 duration and 400 lift. The stock valvetrain will not handle a lot of lift. The stock springs are doubles, but are both wound in the same direction. Opening up the spring seats to 1.45" and using a good single spring will let you go for more lift. Be careful not to deepen the spring seat since there is water under there and the casting is kind of thin. Single pattern cams work fine.

3 - run the thinnest head gasket you can find. The factory ones are really thick and were used to vary the compression between the hi performance and low performance models.

4 - all the 241's are 2 brls. The 270 intakes will also bolt on. I understand there was a single 4 brl 270 intake made from the factory, but it would most likely only use a small base carb. The stock 2 brl is too restrictive for a performance motor.

5 - unless you convert to newer style spark plug tubes, you will want to keep the wire covers. They push down on the top of the tubes to seal them against the valve cover.

lolife · Jul 10, 2006

O'brien sells some nice valve covers. I'm not sure what spark plug tubes O'Brien requires, but I think they can use Chrysler tubes. The Dodge tubes are hard to find, so don't crush them. Use a strap wrench, and let the soak in penetrating oil before you go and start twisting them.

The 318/340/360 distributor fits without mod.

241's don't have cast-in motor mounts. Hot Heads has a neat-o (pricey) water inlet motor mount, that accepts a small block chevy water pump. You have to use a short-nose cam, and timing cover (that's why it get's pricey). Real nice setup though.

Every once in awhile someone sells exhaust header flanges on eBay. Get a set of those. I also had a set of intake flanges made, so I can make a sheet-metal intake.

The 270 4bbl intake can use an adapter for modern carb pattern.

Don't expect a lot of horsepower. These motors are for looks. If you want a lot of horsepower, trade it for a chrysler hemi.

George · Jul 11, 2006

lolife said:

The 270 4bbl intake can use an adapter for modern carb pattern.
Click to expand...

The Edelbrock carbs are drilled for both patterns. Replace the studs w longer ones & use a spacer or squeeze plate. On the Chr. intakes the holes can be opened up to match the newer carb, don't know on Dodge. A 500 CFM should be plenty.

lolife · Jul 11, 2006

George said:

A 500 CFM should be plenty.
Click to expand...

The adapter also spreads the bores out.

I agree. I was going to use a quadrajet (dinky primaries, honkin secondaries) but everyone said "you ***** get that piece of **** off of there!"

Von MoPar · Jul 19, 2006

I have used 318 340 360 small block single valve springs all seems to work well using stock 241 retainers

4tford · Jul 20, 2006

Another link to look at is www.hotrodsandhemis.com there is a lot of info there as well as links to suppliers.

toadfrog · Jun 24, 2009

I know this is a 3 year old tread, but I just got a 241 from a 1954 Dodge for a 1930 Ford coupe project.

Is there any new parts or info on building a mild street motor???

73RR · Jun 24, 2009

Everyone has a different definition for 'mild street'...we can regrind your cam (210 deg x .420 lift is about maximum), use the Mopar electronic ignition, step up to forged pistons (10:1) and check with 'dmarv' for a new Offy intake. 500 cfm is almost too much. The rockers likely need rebuilding. The stock water pump is efficient but not as pretty as some folks like. The alum eye candy is $$$$. Use a dampener on the front end and balance the whole mess. I am working on a Dakota 5-speed swap if that is of interest. Send a PM or call if you want to chat. 888-Hemi-Parts, M-F, 7A-5P

.

lolife · Jun 24, 2009

Offy is supposed to be making a new 4-BBl manifold. I'm too young to put Strombergs on any of my stuff, but they are also coming out with a double deuce manifold with a 4-bolt pattern.

I got a short-snout cam from Hot Heads. It was designed for a 4-BBl. That allowed me to use their aluminum timing cover and motor mount/chevy water pump adapter.

I used a chevy small block oil filler tube (chrome) after t******* it a bit.

Used Hot Heads remote oil filter adapter, 340 oil pump, and 340 harmonic balancer. Had the lower end balanced with the flex-plate and balancer, and it really runs smooth.

Got a right-hand starter GM transmission adaptor, so I can use a stock chevy chrome dustcover.

Cut and re-welded the oil pan for a rear sump. O'brien valve covers and valley cover.

Got some Ross pistons on eBay (they were a wierd .050 size. This is a 270, but a 241 is pretty much the same. Went with a Mallory Unilite and an MSD box. I set the plugs for .040 and they look good after 1000 miles.

Make sure if you bore the block, to check the piston to head clearance. My pistons are pop-up, and they didn't angle down fast enough at the outside, and ended-up hitting the sharp edge of the head. You can either port the heads, or modify the pistons.

This ****er is 277 cu in, and I run it on an 87/91 octane mix. It probably is a 200 HP motor and gets 23 MPG (700R4 and 3:55 gears). Very fast reving motor. If I blip the throttle it comes-up instantly and will scare anyone standing next to it. I like to watch the old ladies jump!

EDIT: I've been running Gibbs hot rod oil, and used Gibbs break-in oil for the first hour (two 30 minute runs at a fast idle). The break-in oil gets real thin after 30 minutes and there will be hardly any oil pressure. It will scare you. But this is good, because it prepares the cam. I let it cool down for a day, and then did another 30 minute run. Then I trashed that oil and went with the Hot Rod oil. I just changed the oil after 1000 miles, and it looks good. I'll probably let this oil go 1500 miles.

lowrodderDon · Jun 24, 2009

I have one of those 241's , and was thinking of building it. I thought that it would make at least 1 hp per cube, being a hemi and all. Is that possible?

lolife · Jun 24, 2009

The Dodge heads are really dinky ports. I kind of joke that the Briggs-Stratton 5 HP motor has a bigger exhaust port, but that's not far off.

My heads are bone stock, with the cam not being much lift over stock. Watching the rockers operate, it's almost like they hardly move. The valves I used are also really heavy items. Lots of m*** there.

I think it would be possible, but it would become more of a race engine. I'm kind of a dependability type person, rather than a get all you can for a short amount of time person.

Here's some orientation pictures:

DYNODANNY · Jun 25, 2009

I'm geting ready to start my hemi and brake it in. so I'll post some pictures later.

continentaljohn · Jun 25, 2009

Good stuff guys, here's my old 241

Jeff Norwell · Jun 25, 2009

It was Dodge's answer to a flathead with Ardun heads.
hahaha.....
If your 241/270 engine does not have a balancer(and 90% did not).....truck engines had them
use a 318/340/360 balancer.
Most 241/270 that are old,stuck and for sale have broken cranks.

Trust me..i went thru 5 before finding a good one.Have your crank magged.

toadfrog · Jun 25, 2009

73RR said: ↑

Everyone has a different definition for 'mild street'...
.
Click to expand...

My thoughts of "Mild Street" is that it will run on pump gas, and be dependable enough to drive on road trips, and be able to smoke a tire when needed.....and sound like it should.

I will be in touch when I get it out and make sure the crank and block are useable.

lolife · Jun 25, 2009

Jeff Norwell said: ↑

..i went thru 5 before finding a good one.Have your crank magged.
Click to expand...

Ditto... I went through three sets of heads and blocks. Still have a few extra parts, but 40 years of rust looks like mice actually have been eating cast iron.

If the engine is frozen, do not show any money till you get the heads off. The one above took 2 sleeves to repair missing chunks of cast iron.

George · Jun 25, 2009

The Hot Heads site says the new 4 bl & 2X2 intakes are in. www.webrodder.com has a 315 build & a partial series on doing a 241. The 241 has nominal 7.5 comp ratio, the 1 they're doing measured @ 6.19!

lolife · Jun 25, 2009

George, thanks for the article pointer! Wow, that series is great stuff. Course I like seeing stuff that machinists do. My own engine was machined by a race engine builder, but the ***embly was just myself with hand tools. These engines tolerate some slop

59BuickWagon · Jun 25, 2009

Nice to see all those finned valve cover

FWIW, my valve covers take stock Dodge spark plug tubes (or you can use DeSoto or Chrysler if that's what you find.)

From a previous post on the HAMB:

<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; ch****t=utf-8"><meta name="ProgId" content="Word.Do***ent"><meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 12"><meta name="Originator" content="Microsoft Word 12"><link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CDO***E%7E1%5CADMINI%7E1%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtmlclip1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><link rel="themeData" href="file:///C:%5CDO***E%7E1%5CADMINI%7E1%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtmlclip1%5C01%5Cclip_themedata.thmx"><link rel="colorSchemeMapping" href="file:///C:%5CDO***E%7E1%5CADMINI%7E1%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtmlclip1%5C01%5Cclip_colorschememapping.xml"><style>  </style> All DeSoto tubes & 56-58 Chr. are 6 1/4"51-3 Chr are 6 13/16", All Dodge & 53-55 Chr are 5 29/32. <o></o>

Dennis

30dodge · Jun 25, 2009

All the looks of the big monsters but smaller in all dimensions and weight.
Use a 318 distributor so you can use pointless ignition.

dmarv · Jun 26, 2009

I've got the Offenhauser 1x4 and 2x2 manifolds in stock. Cost is $340.00 for the 2x2 and $360.00 for the 1x4. Price does not include shipping. Alliance members get a 5% discount!

Dan Marvin, Owner
Exeter Auto Supply

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241 hemi?

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