i have crazy thought im working on.how do they hook up inline engines,is there someone out there that can machine a coupler for the use of 2-241 hemi inlines for me .yes im a lttle out of my league.but im wanting to lern. any input very welcomed
Hey I'm not sure how to do it... google... other forums... This is what hot rodding dreams are made of... It hasn't been done try it... If it has improve it... Everybody has to start learning somewhere... Lord knows I still am... Persistance is what I've found works on here... Give em a little more info... get em hooked... make your project, their project... Start building it and they will come... Good Luck...
You will need an industrial shaft coupling along the lines of: http://www.dodge-pt.com/pdf/brochures/pt_components/BR4000.pdf You can usually specify the bore, (to match the front of the crank) and then machine an adapter for the crank flange. This flexible piece is a better bet than a rigid coupling for connecting two engines. Pretty cool that you can use a Dodge part on a Dodge project... .
i have the car the engines ch***is and the a rendering getting done.spending time in the shop with the 2 shop dogs life is very good.with some of the craz of 60's-70's old fed dual engines has put a idea in my head.if it works great if not not a big loss still have the engines for some other project. figured there may be a few racers from the good old days.coupler male female seems the easiest.
i knew there was master minds on the site. il get a rendering and photo it when i get it back from the artist. i spent 2 years getting the 70 cuda of candies hughes orginal body and orginal ch***is back together.i traveled half that country and i got her done. with a little input from some of you guys will get this knocked out 2 .team work thank you.
Unless you can absolutely guarantee perfect shaft alignment (less than 0.0005) then a rigid cplg will break shafts. That is guaranteed. If you have doubts, talk with any mechanical or industrial engineer, or millwright with manufacturing plant exp. .
Check the bottom of this page: http://www.norbsplace.com/page3.html The page is about someone who built and raced a dual engine flathead powered dragster in the 1960's. He used two sprockets placed face to face with double row chain wrapped around them. I'm sure you will want to read the rest of the site as well. I had traded some email with him a few years ago and he was quick to send details of what he had done when I asked.
The 'sprockets and chain' are most likely; http://www.brancekrachy.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=61_74_400 again, standard industrial parts. .
Yep, double row chain and sprockets, i was looking into the same thing but got side tracked, get two sprockets that are the same, attatch one to the dampner and one to the crank hub, then put the double row chain on em, and your done, i was gonna get sprockets big enough that i could drill the dampner and crank pattern directly into them, youd have to counter sink the bolts so you can get them close enough together but that isnt so bad. Ill get to it someday too. JEFF
Good afternoon H.A.M.B.ers. Answering C/H's question concerning the hook up of two engines in-line. Having crewed on a twin engine car (Paris Bros.) and taken the motors in and out many times, that particular car was two male splined connectors, one bolted to the rear of the front crank, the other is bolted to the front of the crank of the rear motor and a splined male coupler similar to a rear-end coupler (takes place of U-joints). Put the rear motor in, put the spline on the connector, set the other motor in place, turn the motor over till the splines line up and slide the motor back until it's set in place and bolt it up (front motor mounts and rear motor plate). I hope this helps. Good luck. Tim
FALK makes splined couplings for connecting big industrial equipment. You could just go to your local bearing / PT house and see what equipment they offer to get more ideas. One a side note, will the crank of the rear 241 engine survive? They have a reputation of breaking, and that is without another engine connected to it... Or is the power level going to be low?
I'm building a twin engine fuel altered and am going to try a pair of flexplates...it's the shortest possible coupler I could come up with. Search thread "They said it coulden't be done". I described my setup pretty clearly there.
Look at SUMMERS bros axles web site only place i saw a photo of the coupler box on their 4 engine GOLDEN ROD they even used a blower end plate as a cover >two engines into one drive best<>if you hook inline be sure to faze the power strokes one inbetween other engine
That's an interesting dilemma. Splitting the timing (rear motor 45° away from front, so you have smaller intervals) works the clutch less (final output), but doubles the number of load reversals in the coupler. An engine does not turn consist speed (in terms of degrees per millisecond) throughout its 720° rotation, but slows down on each compression stroke and speeds up on the power stroke. On a single cylinder this is obvious, but I ***ure you it's still present in a V8 unless you have a 200 lb. flywheel. This means that if you offset the 2, each is trying to "stabilize" the speed of the other engine. It's unfortunate that not all of these doubles worked as well as originally designed (Chet Herbert spent $$$ on a 2 × 400" SBC, and it never produces more than 150% of single engine power - he suspected mid-RPM float and ignition spark ****ter, even with the blocks welded), typically harmonics disrupt ignition. A commercial chain coupler sounds good but remember that increasing the number of rows increases load capacity (more or less linear) while only adding a small amount of thickness, whereas using larger pitch increases load but also reduces the number of teeth for a given OD (not good), and increases chain speed for a given number of teeth (not good). Better 3×50 than 1×120, etc.
thanks for the replys lost track of the thread some how. were talking steetrod/cackle car.no horspower maybe 200-250 a unit. no racing planned for car.more of static but usable streetrod.thanks for the replys.
if any of you guys have photos the style of couplers you are using and what maybe a good set up for me maybe you can email them to me . mccauley117@msn.com thank you kevin
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