I'm about over the clutch in my 28. I have a 401 with a Muncie, using an Eelco bellhousing and a Howe hydraulic throw out bearing. I fired up my engine for the first time a couple of weeks ago and was all set for a short trip up the driveway. I depressed the clutch and got a knocking sound. I was pretty sure I knew what it was....and I wasn't disappointed. The hydraulic fittings on the T/O bearing are hitting the back of the pressure plate ***embly. I hadn't realised that on the Howe bearing the whole outer housing moves forward when you depress the clutch, not just the front bearing section. That pushes the fittings into the clutch. I have been doing some searching and reading and it seems the McLeod and the Tilton T/O's bolt to the front of the gearbox and so the hydraulic lines would stay stationary, I presume. That would certainly fix my problem. But that is another $400 or so and in my travellings around this board and others, the rate of failures and leaking of hydraulic throwout bearings (regardless of brand) leads me to wonder if this is a route I really want to travel. Having had to remove my body, engine and gearbox to sort this out, I really don't want it to become a regular operation down the track. I went this way originally because there wasn't enough room for the clutch fork due to a body mount and other miscellaneous items. Now I'm looking again to see if I can squeeze it in. I really don't think I can on the left side where it belongs but possibly on the right, with a direct pushrod from the pedal. I still have a body mount to negotiate on this side but I think it might be doable. So that's the back ground. Now to my question. Does anyone have experience in making their own (or seriously modifying) clutch forks to fit around stuff? It will also require me cutting a new hole on the right side of the bellhousing and mounting a ball pivot or manufacturing another pivot to suit. Any info on these sorts of mods, details of linkage ratios (my pedal is currently 6:1) etc would be appreciated. Pete
what about a mech. t/o bearing using a hyd. slave to activate it. they make them to push or pull. what about a cable operated like a mustang or? lots of late model cars use these systems
That was going to be my suggestion...use a Hyd slave cylinder to push/pull a mechanical rod or arm set-up.
You must already have the clutch M/C installed, so i would go with hyd clutch and T/O arm on the p*** side. Its just one tapped hole in you bell housing and screw in a ball pivot & a bracket to mount the push cylinder. Pop down to your local wrecker and check out the XD to EL falcons, they have a cable arrangement but you could tax the arm & pivot ball for a couple of bux. i wouldnt go anything Jap as it would be too light for your app, but if you see one check out the F100's they have a hyd clutch.....same arangement you could get the cylinder from that. I know centre rd Wreckers had a stick F100, that would be heafty enough.
The biggest issue is really the fork. That's where the space is limited. The method I use to actuate it is less of a concern. On the left I have all my wiring and fuel lines running up onto the firewall so that limits the space on that side more than on the right. When I looked at the right side today, I realised that I should be able to run a direct link from the pedal to the fork. That would make things really simple. I'm ***uming there is no further ratio change between the pedal and the fork, i.e. 6" travel at the pedal = 1" travel to the actuating rod = 1" travel to the fork. The problem is there is no hole for the fork or pivot in the bellhousing. That wouldn't seem to be too big of a deal. I have an EB Falcon in the carport to look at, so I'll do that too. Thanks, Pete
I'm sure rethinking it. That's why I'm here. I value the experience and knowledge on here. It's what got my car built to the point its now at. This is the Howe bearing with hydraulic line and bleeder attached. I thought just the bearing moved forward but the whole outer housing moves.
Have a look at the set up these guys sell http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_hcr3.htm I hear what you are saying about clearance, I had a problem on my PU running a T10 but this gave me just enough room to make it all fit + there is no guess work on rations etc. Just tell them the bore of your M/C and they provide the slave to suit along with pivot, arm, brackets in fact the whole shooting match! I was going to go with a hydraulic bearing but decided against it due to cost and high failure rates. Might not work for you but should give you some options and ideas. P.
Thanks for that link. It looks like good stuff. They don't list a kit for my application so I may need to contact them and see what they have. Pete
G-Day mate, not becose I did the direct pushrod/link, but it`s a walk away result. and as im not so good on my ratios, I just winged it ( as i do ). I dont recon you need much pedal length, above or below, to get a half decent pedal. and if it looks like it lines up, well there you go. and the pivit would be doable. Martin.
It's all gone to **** ****s! I can't believe that this clutch has been the hardest thing on this WHOLE car. I'll give you a call tomorrow and fill you in.
Striper, have you given any thought to just installing a clutch pedal stop. Sounds like you are over extending your T/O bearing. If your clutch will release before the T/o contacts the clutch cover this could be a easy and cheep fix. .........Jack
Im in the same place my rod was around that setup, before I knew of the possable problems . mine is working ok but if it ****s out I will fab a arm setup at the7 oclock position it will take some fabing and removing of my engine. my ***** with Howe is the fitting seat is cut at 45 not at 30 deg, as a standard 4 AN fitting.
No, I have less than 1/4" of clearance with the clutch engaged. It's always going to hit. The 7 o'clock position might just work for me. Naturally I'm thinking 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock. Absolutely no reason it can't be seven or four or whatever works. Thanks for that. Pete
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