Hi Folks, I got a hold of a '65 C10 a few weeks back. Ran fine home, no problems whatsoever until this past week. The electrics (lights, turn signal and starter) started to get weak, until finally, no dice. I replaced the battery and ran fine for a few days, then caput. Each of these times a hot shot got me running right away. Yesterday I replaced the alternator thinking maybe that was the issue. Ran okay after some charging, and then caput again! It has a rebuilt '71 4-bolt 350 in it, new distributor (and now new battery and alternator). The Starter acts up when the truck gets hot sometimes, but that's the only other thing I can think of. Being a novice at this kind of thing, I'm really at a loss here. Thanks in advance for your thoughts. -Screws (newbie)
Need to see if the altenator is putting out. Get it running again and pull the hot wire off the battery. If the motor continues to run that means the altenator is working. Check from battery to the starter solenoid; then check from solenoid to the fuse box. It is probably between battery/altenator and the fuse block. If it was on the distribution side of the fuse block then individual circuits would be affected. Should be an easy find, basically check the big wires (assuming altenator is working). Good luck, remember: if a hammer don't fix it then its an electrical problem. For some reason i thought it was a ford, had to edit.
Thanks OJ, I'll get right on it and report back. Here's a picture of the beast. Lots of work, lots of fun.
You said alternator, so it's been converted from a generator. Check the wiring by looking up how it should've been converted, then follow your wires to be sure that's where they go. I'm betting they don't. Good luck ^oh, and the voltage spike advice is solid. High risk of cookage when you remove the output wire on a spinning alternator.
1965 C10's came from the factory with an alternator although the dash mounted indicator light still says " Gen " . Or at least , my '65 has the alternator and I know it's original .
you can test alt to see if its charging with truck running take screwdriver and hold it in the center of the alt on backside and if its charging you will have magnetic draw. time to invest in good multimeter.
'65 Chevys Pick Ups came STOCK with an externally regulated Alternator. You need to see if it has been changed to an Internal regulated Alternator & then check the wireing if it has.
Sorry man, brain cramps. I'm typing during paint drying breaks and it seems the fumes are working. The correct advice is check the regulator if it's there and check the conversion wiring if it's got an internal regulated alternator. Good Luck!!
Clean the ground connection at the engine block. Sounds to simple but, poor grounding causes all sorts of issues.
Thanks for the save on NOT pulling the wire off. The previous owner put in a '71 350 bored 30 over with a Holly, some kind of fancy distributor, auto tranny, but there are parts that look pretty old (such as the alternator I replaced). I will look at the starter and trace wires today. Rhew5r, someone else suggested I do this with the body ground; I'll add that to the list. It's frustrating because I truly thought it was the battery, then the alternator, and it's got a great motor, is a BLAST to drive, and I'm stuck under the hood on my 35th bday on July 4th wanting desperately for this baby to run run run! Thanks a million for the advise fellers. I hope after many more of these adventures to be able to contribute the same great advise for some poor schmuck like myself!
Attached are a few pictures I took while chasing wires, etc. I put a multimeter on the battery and the alternator and got the same reading (12.75). The wiring issues/ questions I have were photographed. Potential issues: 1. grounding the battery to the alternator adjuster slide; 2. a few unconnected wires at what I believe is the regulator; Anyone see anything in the pics that is totally out of place? Definitely in over my head with electrics; thanks again for the help.
Not a problem...that is where GM attached the ground cable on so many cars. Many might not like having it so exposed but it will function just fine.
with the engine not running and all the acceroies , raido off, disconect the hot cable on the battery if you see a spark you have a short to ground it will drain your battery.allso also if you have a cd player one of the power wires must be on switched power from the fuse block if it is not it will drain the batt in a cople of days good luck
Judging by the alternator shape & plug you've still got the externally regulated alternator. Things that just jump out....... Somebody once had charging issues and tried to improve ground to the regulator. See the added on ground wire??? The regulator uses electricity itself and therefore needs a ground. It ought to ground thru it's base and whatever panel it's bolted to, but if somebody went crazy with paint or the inner fender's mounting points are corroded...it may not have consistent ground thru the mounts. The regulator isn't fully bolted on. That box has actual mechanical switches inside it. If it's flopping around and vibrating you can damage them. Parts stores "should" be able to test the regulator. Years ago you actually took it into the parts store and they tested it on the same machine as the alternator/generator. A good parts store usually complained if you did not bring the regulator. Old wires have shape memory. That unplugged green wire ought to just about fall onto something's terminal. Old timers always tap a regulator gently when troubleshooting your situation. Go back to the mechanical switch comment. The switches are known to stick. Start the car, gently tap the regulator body with a hammer. It may start charging, but it may now also be stuck on a high charge rate. Not good, but you're troubleshooting with the hammer, not fixing with the hammer. New regulators are not worth a crap and haven't been since around 1990. If you throw a new regulator at it, and it's not the regulator....put the old one on a shelf, not in the trash. Good luck
Since you're new to electrics, here's the foundation of being an automotive electrical genius without even knowing an amp from a volt...... A wiring system is a mechanical object, not an electrical object. I'm talking about every wire loom in a car. Mechanical object. See, people that "don't understand electricity" look at wires and see a mysterious bowl of spaghetti doing mysterious things. Probably 2/3 of electrical repair is actually wiring repair. A wire just connects 2 points, that's all it does. You don't need to know the direction of flow, or how much it flows, or when it flows. All you need to know is it can flow reliably. This means that you don't have to know sh*t about electricity. All you have to do is be able to inspect and repair wires. Honestly, a 6th grader has the technical ability to repair wires. It's all about solid connections, and the inspection process is 1/3 eyeball inspection, 1/3 putting connections in your hand for wiggle test, and 1/3 willingness to disassemble & dig into the loom further than 6 inches past the troubled accessory. Wires connect 2 points. All the engineering is done at the factory, and you don't need to outsmart the engineers. Just repair what's there and you'll be miles ahead of most 50 year old backyard mechanics. Amateur electricians usually run off track when they don't duplicate the factory setup. good luck
Thanks Shifty, Roadrunner, and the rest of you who have posted excellent advise. Yesterday, traced wires, and installed a spanking new voltage regulator. Drove 135 miles yesterday with a stop, to and from my folks' house from my Sis's house in rain and dark last night, 135 miles back this morning, NO PROBLEMS! I'm hoping that remains the case, and that the voltage regulator was the problem. Nothing like using the open windows of a '65 Chevy as the frame of all the beautiful things I saw cruising to and from the Eastern Shore. -Screws
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