Ok. I just bought a 1967 ford bronco rearend. The housing has never been molested or cut on and the spring perches are in the stock location. I have one question though I'm installing it in a 1939 ford 2dr sedan and the length is perfect, however do i have to move the spring perches to use it with a ch***is engineering inc rear leaf spring kit? Or can i just bolt everything right in without remounting the spring perches?
Your going to have to cut the old ones off the rear end and weld on new ones. Plus make sure you set your pinion angle right.
Because the spring perches are on the top of the housing instead of on the bottom ... like most rear ends ... you MAY be able to leave the original perches and just add the new ones to the lower side. CHECK and may sure that the offset on the Bronco rear ( because it was a 4 wheel drive ) is not so far that the driveshaft will hit/rub the driveshaft tunnel in the 39
Remember, most ford 9 and 8 inch rear ends especially from 4X4s have offset to the right pinions, measure twice.
Thanks for the info. What pinion angle should I set it at? I'll go buy a angle tool, but what angle should i set the pinion?
I just pull a set of Ch***is Eng. springs and a rear under my 40 ford. I did have a early bronco rear under it and looked like I would have had to modify the tunnel to keep the drive shaft from rubbing. also the spring perches on top may have to be removed so you can use the U bolts. I ended up putting a Maverick 8 inch under it. It bolt right in The spring perch center is 42 1/2 to 43 inches on the ch***is eng. spring kit. I did have the bronco rear at a 3 degree angle and it looked about right. I also used the Ch***is eng. Motor mount and trans mount for a small block ford with a c4. If you are using a chevy the angle may be different. I just got the rear put under it today.
How bad did it look like it was going to rub the driveshaft. Im going to be using the same set up as you for the motor mounts and trnasmission. so hopefully it turns out ok.
Just a FYI on the off set of a early bronco rearend, the Pumpkin is centered and the off set of 2.5 inches will be at the yoke. This would be for all 1966-1977 broncos, BTW one of the finest truck every built too bad the rustout crazy fast!!
I did not put the drive shaft in. But by eye balling it it look close. I would try a small dia. drive shaft. It may work. Just that I had that maverick rear and it was a bolt in. I'm going to use the Bronco rear in the Model T Pickup.
Ok. now does anyone know if the angle or offset will cause a bind from where the c4 mounts in the original location on a 39 frame? And last question what is the best size of steel wheels to use with the 11 inch drum brakes that the rearend came with so i have clearence under the rear fenders? I've heard there were clearence issues with the bigger brake drums?
I say this very respectfully, they do not. All they need be is parallel in the vertical plane (viewed from above/below) and parallel on the horizontal plane, minus a few degrees to compensate for spring wrap. Offset is not a problem, so long is is is not beyond what the u-joint can handle. If memory serves me correctly, that donor Bronco did not have any of its pinions on the same line as the engine center line.
The driveshaft may hit if the car is too low. The CE spring setup should keep the car high enough for this to not be a problem. If you remove some springs, then it will be. Depends on how you want to set up the car. Remember to have the car's weight fully on the springs/rear when you measure the pinion angle or it will be wrong. Also the 3" driveshaft should help.
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