Hello I have a 1939/40 ford front axle . I had it droped 2 1/2 " now my problem is the spindles dont turn they hit on the newly droped section of axle.? If I buy aftermarket steering arms will I have the same problems.?? and I have split the wishbone and dont think I will have much turning radius for tires.?? have any sugestions short of buying a compleat assembly from P & J s Thanks Mike
The traditional way to do it is to heat and bend them. I have been meaning to do a tech on this for a while, meanwhile I do offer the service.
there is a tech on this here on the HAMB, but i dont know where it is. they show heating and bending them till they clear.
The steering arms will need to be heated and bent down. Make sure they are as hot as possible, then let them cool very slowly. It you have split the WB out to the rails, you will be very limited in the turning radius. Mount the back ends to the X-member like all of the kits. We have pre-made tabs to weld to the frame or a trans mount that are already tapered.
i had the axle on my `37 dropped and had the same problem that you are having. i bought re-pop spindles and bolt-on steering arms and there was still no way it would work[ the steering arms would get into the axle]. talked to the guy that dropped the axle and he said he would drop another one and stretch it slightly[increase the distance from the perch bolt to the king pin] and the bolt on steering arms just clear the axle now. so i think the critical dimension that you need to maintain is about 4 5/8" from the center line of the perch bolt to the center line of the king pin. hope this helps.
I had the EXACT same problem. I cut the arms off and installed a set from Chassis Engineering...the set with the biggest drop.I chose theirs because they not only drop straight down, but they are a through bolt design. I am 100% satisfied with the result...the spindle backs now hit the stop nuts the way they're suppose to...
I'm sureeeeeeee that they are just for setup as NO ONE would do this in the real world...would they? Ford axle bolts are what works and what should be used.
the traditional thing would be to heat and bend them. I had the same thing with my front end, it isnt as hard as it looks. I know its a bad pic but i can post more latter. Just take your time
ok so can anyone tell a novice how to do this without destroying the steering arm or king pin bushing.
345 Desoto - the arms look good, but if you get a flat tyre - is the steering set up going to hit the ground before the rim.
Its not realy as hard as it looks, i was hesitant but it worked out good. First I straitened out the slow gradual bend, and made the first bend as close to the king pin as possible, then bent them down so the tie rod would clear the bones and then anouther to bring the tie rod eyes level. Just watch the distance of the tie rod eyes from the brake backing plates, that will effect ackerman angles. buy "how to build hot rod chassis" by tex smith, great book tells you every thing you need to know.
thanks for the mag tech article it should help. I have the book by tex smith will have to read it again. Thanks Mike, will post picts of compleated bend
not to hijack this thread, but is there any special tricks to get the ford axle bolts out? or are the ones I was trying to get out tonight being held together with rust? I took the nut off and started wacking away (i figured I'd change the bolts anyway), wouldnt budge...
They are tricky. Just let it soak in penetrating oil overnight, then heat the axle and wishbone in that spot, not realy red but just enough to get it to expand. Then try a couple of good whacks, if not let it cool slowly and try again.