Hi. Want to start my car for the first time. All of my oil is in, and the engine is set to go. I have a couple of questions before I sart though. What size are the lines on the transmission??, and how much and what kind of fluid should I get?? Dip stick is in and there is nothing on it. I have a seperate cooler mounted near the bottom of the radiator.. Thanks..
This may sound as dumb as the post, but is there a drive shaft in the transmission? and a pool of ****** fluid under the car??
No drive shaft in the car. The car is a 37 Ford Tudor with a 350/350. I want to start the engine which is in the car. The transmission is already on the engine. After I know that the engine works.. I will then get a driveshaft. Untill then I don't want to blow the transmission because there is no fluid in it. There are no lines on it now. I thought maybe someone might know just what size lines to get. I was going to get some 3/8" lines and bend them to go to the cooler I have in front of the radiator. As far as the fluid goes I am not sure as to how many quarts go in. There are also so many brands. Like Royal Purple, B&M Trick Shift, Havoline, and others..
take the 3 bolts out holding the converter to the flywheel and you won't have to worry about the trans cause it won't spin.
Trans cooler lines should be 5/16, The capacity of a 350 is 11 quarts if its been rebuilt, or should I say dry. If it was just drained about 2 quarts will stay in the converter and about 4 in the trans. Bottom line is 5/6 quarts should fill it. put in 4 and check it, add some check etc. etc.
I was told to put the 3 bolts in, because the torque converter should pump and move around some as well.. I don't know if it was drained or not. When I bought my car a couple of years ago. The engine and trans were bolted together. All of the holes have, or had plastic plugs in them. I was told then that the engine was rebuilt and run for 20k. The trans was rebuilt and had run for 10k. I have some 5/16" new straight brake lines. Would they work for those lines?? I would need to right from the start bend the line at a 45, go about 6", and do another 45. If these line can't be used?? I would hate to have to bend some lines to only throw away..
Car/engine ****** combo? new torque converter or the one that was in it? I don't have a clue what size lines a Honda has, but my GM truck has 5/16 lines and I always keep 7 qts of dextron around when I'm starting one I don't know about.
Engine came out of a 82 Chev. Pickup. Has a Holley intake. Also had a Holley 750cfm for it. There was a kind of weird oil pan on it. There was more sump on the p***engers side. After I took the pan off.. There was a oil pump that I looked up. It was a 50% higher volumne pump. It only has 2 bolt mains. The heads are nothing special either. It has a HEI distributor without a computer. The transmission is a turbo 350. All I can say about that is that it has a aluminum pan on it.
if you take the 3 bolts out and pull the converter back toward the rear of the car then take some wire in one of the mounting holes of the converter and wire it in place it will clear the flywheel. i'm asuming your just going to run this for a short amount of time to make sure it runs? if so this should cure your problem.
Yes. I only want to start it to see if it runs. Wouldn't it be wise to also see if the transmission works as well?? When I was putting on the Lokar shifter.. I could turn the rear shaft so I know it isn't froozen at all.. Though if you think it is better that I don't?? Then I will crawl back under and take those bolts out again..
more than likely if its been sitting for any lenght of time it would be wise to put in a new pump seal and rear seal in the trans. cheap insurance against a puddle of trans fluid on the ground.
That's a circle track pan,should be fine;Does the distributor only need one external wire?Or is it "oem" for 1982 (4pin spark control) which can be converted.... With out a driveshaft I dont think dextron will just pump out ...but some mess might occur
There were some wires that were spliced together on the distributor wires. I replaced the whole works. Now there is one wire I do have the yokefrom the Chevrolet driveshaft that was still on the trans when I got it.
god thing about the yoke in the back, i the trans is full and thats not in there, well it wont be full.... it'll just pour onto the floor, done it b4. you could check the trans, but how r u gonna stop it from spining? or if the yoke comes out it could cause some damage, id save checking that for when theres a drive line, better safe then sorry right? good luck
Haven't bent many lines, have ya? With traditional tubing, If I need 2 lines, I buy 3 sticks. Sometimes 4. If you're using that hand-bendable, unkinkable stuff it's much more forgiving to misbend and rebend, you won't need extra line It's the only way to go. Good luck
Bent all of my brake lines, and gas lines from straight stock.. Did I destroy some?? You bet.. My hand gets sore from the arthritis, but Yes.. I have bent tubing before.. As far as the benable stuff.. I couldn't get it in under 25'.
I've tried moving the converter back in the past (too anxious to hear the new engine run and bother with the converter bolts) but I'm pretty sure the pilot still sits in the rear of the crank. It's what centers the converter on the crank and if it or the crank bore gets worn out, you could have problems like unwanted vibrations or wear issues. If you are only firing the engine up momentarily, just get two inverted flare fittings or cut the ends off a 5/16" hard line and loop a hose, with clamps of course. You may want to stick a yoke in the tail end of the transmission, unless you want a big mess. Just make sure the transmission is in park. The 5/16" "brake line" you have will work fine. If you use any hose in your cooler lines, use transmission cooler hose, not fuel line and put a small flare on the end of cut tubing to help keep the hose from slipping off. Rent a flaring tool or in a bind you can insert a drift punch or small socket extension in the line and tap firmly with a hammer a few times to create a flare. Also, use any brand Dexron transmission fluid.
Thank You.. I just want to start it to see if I can get it started. I did enough wiring in order to the key to turn it over. I have a remote starter that I was going to use by turning the key to ON. Then using the remote ****on to turn over the engine.. Then I can check for leaks, and any problems that might come up. For just this start up.. How much fluid should I put in?? I'll put a clean bucket under the back of the transmission for just in case.. I think insted of just running a line from one to the other.. I'll bend the tubing from the trans foward to the cooler.. The cooler came in a kit form. I bought at the 50's last year. It's called Power Deluxe. It came with hose, and all of the clamps, and little deals that you push threw the radiator to hold it on.
I would just get it to read on the dipstick, run it for a little while to fill the converter and cooler lines, check it again with the engine running and the transmission in park and add fluid till it reads full on the dipstick.
It may not right away, but it surely will after it sits for a while and the converter starts to drain.
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