twin turbo small block questions

Heres another build for inspiration. 8's on vortecs, stock crank and a unfilled block.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=248388

 

lots of more knowledgeable people on here than me, but heres my .02....

1. one more vote for buying maximum boost. very good info.
2. lots of guys on the import turbo forums are big on using those turbo calculators,

http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/

i dont know the ins n outs but it will give you an idea of what boost you'll need for what power, with what size turbos etc etc.

3. i would also highly recommend s****ping the carb idea and going with an EFI setup, and a Megasquirt or equiv. computer.

you can tune with a laptop on the go, and it'll be a lot more versatile if youre going to be running low boost for streets, then turning it way up for racing etc.

turbos are like NOS, run a little lean at full boost and boom. say goodbye to rotating ***embly.

4. the ebay turbos are junk. never once have i heard a good thing aout them.

5. if you want a decent turbo for cheap and are willing to do some legwork, this is a link to just about every car that came with a turbo from the factory. most of them are for 2.0-3.0 liter motors, so a pair of them should be about right for a 5-6 liter v8.
you just have to do some junkyard searching...

http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?PHPSESSID=579f3918cc13aee1ef546caf9d42821a&topic=4365.0

good luck, cuz your in for a wild ride!


patrick

 

learn how to tune your setup ....

 

i have about 22k in my twin turbo small block there is no such thing as a budget turbo engine. Well if you want to do it right aleast

 

the most clueless reply ever. Not a clue in the world.

Please bring your baddest to the HAMB Drags so we can watch you get spanked soundly by the guy that can't tune.

 

Truer words have never been spoken. I have a non-HAMB friendly car that has a turbo setup I built from a Mustang SVO turbo, my own piping, a bit of Maximum Boost reading and of course a Megasquirt.

I did a quick bench rebuild of the JY SVO turbo and have been running it for 7 years now. I spent the years prior running nitrous. As stated before me here, tuning is key. Once I was up and running I spent the next few months tuning and was able to get more power with less boost than I started.

I do have some friends running the eBay turbos, and the are running but have their own drawbacks - plus the people that I know running them are clinically insane and have no issues swapping out motors every other week.

 

If you keep it around 600hp you can use a stock high nickle 350 block reliably if its a four bolt block. Keep the stock stroke to keep things easy and make piston selection cheaper.

Turbos are easier on the bottem end than making the same power NA. You can make about 600hp on a budget, on pump gas. I was making 450hp on 89 octane pump gas on a lightweight 209 casting block, with 2 bolt mains, stock rods, and a cast crank,
with no issues but I decided to upgrade the bottom end before I turn up the boost some more. 60-1 compressor wheel on a Rayjay 301EE10 will do about 600hp

As soon as you get past the limits of the stock block and crank, its gets $$$.

Turbos make m***ive torque when you are in boost, a 450hp turbo motor is an absolute BEAST on the street.

Take the smog heads and use them for door stops. You want a compact and efficient chamber. Go right out and pick up a set of aftermarket heads. I like the Dart Iron Eagle Platinums because of their good chamber, low price, and thick decks.

I am building a new motor using IE200 heads with 64cc chambers, TRW L2441 pistons on **** rods, and a factory forged crank in a 010 high nickle four bolt block. A custom cam and my tweaked Martin system should make a reliable 600+hp with water/alcohol injection.

 

Huh?? hit the block with a grinder until everything fits, get a 400 crank turn it undersized and run it, after all it's not like trying to fit the M/T 4" stroker crank they sold in the 60's

 

Really, do you think this was caused by an improper tune? This is not uncommon, in fact I took that picture from a website that sells valley girdles to help prevent this.

LOL, tuning

 

This thread is interesting to me because we have a Non-Hamb car at the shop that is getting a twin turbo, custom CNC'd big block Chevy, hemi-heads, blah, blah, blah ........

Anyway, I know little or nothing about the science of twin turbos. I don't even want to know.

But, as the guy doing all of the non motor/turbo piping work, it sure doesn't seem like something that could be done on a budget.

For instance, I mounted 3 Areomotive 1000 fuel pumps, 6 Aeromotive fuel filters, and 3 Areomotive pressure regulators under this car. Add that up - $$$$$$ Not to mention the 5/8 stainless fuel line I bent X 3 and fittings.

Budget? I'm all ears.

 

You want budget? I will throw the spare martin turbo kit I have with the original 301EE turbo on it onto the stock 85' 305 that is going into my 55' Chev. I want to see how much abuse the 85,000 mile stock motor will take before it grenades. I will probably throw some new gaskets on it to stop the oil leaks, and a maybe a cam since the stock 305 cam is tiny.

I picked up the kit for $300. Camshaft, gaskets, etc - probably another $200.

 

Jeezuz Jones, what in the hell for? Redundancy?

A single A1000 should be able to support 800-900 HP under high boost, Two pumps staged I can understand but three! WOW

Pro series pumps or a belt driven remote pump would make far more sense and be cheaper.

 

If mechanical strength is not an issue,the only limit on power of a forced induction engine is detonation.

 

Having a solid foundation is always a plus.

 

A little bird gave me a bit of insight...

 

OP, who is now banned I wonder why... Will need two waste gates, blow off valves, spend some real money on a fuel system and lot of other little stuff. Plus OP would need to add in stuff like head and main studs for durability.

I had a 867rwhp 348 cid LS1 (actually an LS6), and even with my cheap basic engine it still got up there costwise...

 

ROFLMAO!!!

He's prolly got it close on tune! My guess would be he has a little bit of experience! LOL!!

 

True, BUUUUT, the K&N ones will work if the tubing is right. I started my setup and ran it about 3 years with that hat. Worked GREAT until I changed heads to the Vortecs and put a Super Victor on it which raised the carb up about 1.5". That made me angle the charge tube up (which was horizontal before). That angle change made the air do goofy things in the carb under boost. I did not figure this out for SEVERAL months!! After changing the dist, coil, wires, MSD box, and even the carb! Then I finally thought I'd pull the hood and change the pipe back to horizontal since I had done everything else. Vioa!! Fixed it!

But, don't h***le with the thing and go with a CSU hat or a EV hat!

 

wonder what got him banned

 

Judging by his personal page, he must be pretty upset..

 

Sounds like he had a little sand in his ******...

 

That is some funny **** Hate to see people go away mad, but still funny

 

Like this? This is a friend of mine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jx9S4kVCGkA

 

X2. My condolences.

 

hmmm, nothing in here that I saw that shouldve offended him.
Wonder what ticked him off so much? And what he said to get banned?

Oh well, no sweat off my.......