So my flathead's not stuck.....now what??

First off, I'm using the HAMB Tech article "how to awaken a slumbering engine"........but would like some flathead specific answers.

I bought a 1940 ford sedan with the complete flathead. The car was last driven in 1965, then parked. The motor is free and the oil on the dipstick looked real clean. The aircleaner was left on the carb when parked, so the mice didn't pack the carb full of nuts, but the carb is stuck so I picked up a good holley for it. The original owner told me that the fuel pump was acting "funny" when he put the car in the barn in '65, hence the reason for parking it. He said it ran really good before the pump went out.

I haven't done a compression check at all, but I'm ***uming that all the cylinders are pumping because it was running motor, and isn't stuck. My question is what should I look for next before I actually hook juice up to the starter?

 

I would at least do a compression check before you start it, if any look weak, take the heads off and see whats wrong before you start it. Rushing could be costly.

 

Presume you have already done this but don't do anything till you have dosed the bores with oil and let it soak for a few days before you even try to turn it by hand.

 

that's what i was thinking. And everything else on the car has come apart like it was brand new, so taking the heads off wouldn't be that bad.

 

yup, been squirtin' mystery oil in the cylinders for a week.

 

Stuck valves are common, but usually not serious. They can usually just be pushed down a few times. You can see fairly well through plug holes...keep rotating and watch what they do. Squirt some oil under them to trickle down onto stems.
Both the reported 1965 trouble and the long storage mean trouble if you try to run it on the gas tank as-is. Do your testing with a clean small tank hooked up and a new fuel pump. You can also use simple gravity feed for now, using a Moon type tank or one from a mower.
Check points...they often develop an non-conductive glaze over the contacts requiring a swipe or two with a point file, and in storage the springs often break!

 

Turning over needs a deep 1 1/8 socket...the Craftsman 12 point will go into the pit there.

 

What's the easiest way to unstick the valves? Just rotating the engine?

 

I actually took the fan off and fab'ed up my own "rotatin' tool" to bolt to the fan mount.

 

Unless totally rusted solid, rotating will open the valves; sticky ones will stay open. Most valves in this shape will unstick by oiling, pushing them shut, and rotating again til they move on their own. You might be able to handle all with heads on and a hooked tool, but obviously if you see a bunch sticking removing heads will make life easier. Anything more than simple pushing needs to be on-center...valves are way easier to bend than you think! Also, try to get a good look at seat surface. You have hardened seats, but if valves are pitted or rusted at their seats you are going to have to do some work.
Valves closing on their own also tells you at least that springs are not totally dead.

 

good luck with the flatty,I hope it all works out,Mr Lancaster is on the money with the valves..as usual.

 

will pulling the heads hurt anything? I remember watching my dad pull flatheads heads and it seems like it took forever, and a lot of cuss words.

 

pulling the heads will help alot,if this flatty has been sitting since 65,you may need to see whats going on under those heads.Pulling the bolts,well that bit ****s as head bolts will break off.But on the other hand its a chance to correct anything thats wrong,and if money allows replace the heads and head bolts as well as gaskets.I did it to mine and never looked back,well worth it.

 

cool. Like I said before, everything on this car has come apart like it was brand new. I'm hoping that there's no issues with the heads, but I've seen what it takes to remove seized heads...

 

It probably has studs and not bolts. If you get all the nuts off leave the plugs in and turn it over and see if that will break the heads loose.

 

that's a good idea.

 

If you have original studs and iron heads, you will probably have no real trouble. Lots 'o nuts, lift.

 

use automatic trans fluid to soak parts.works great

 

I've had good luck with Kroil.Shoot it in and let it go to town.
I've also shot it down carbs. when I got the motor running.Helps unstick rings.
Good luck!

 

i've never seen kroil before, is it available at parts stores?

 

Do this, but to add to it: Pull your plugs out, and squirt some oil in the cylinder through the valves (don't do to much). Turn your motor over by hand a couple times to make sure its free all the way around ( like what he was saying about the valves). I would change the oil, but its up to you, you can even do 4 qts 10-w30 and 1 of ATF. ATF cleans. you can hook up an oil preasure gauge or pull one of the plugs out on the back of the block to make sure it is pumping oil (put plug back in when done, duh). Clean your plugs or replace them. file the points. Check spark on your plugs. put plugs in. hook up your gravity feed fuel system. run wire from 6v battery to - (I think it's negative side?, opposite side of the one going to distibutor) on the coil (but disconect when not trying to fire). I would hook a 12v battery to the starter to wing it over so you can build compression. If you dont have all your stuff to cool it, You can run with no water for like 10sec.
Have fun, keep us updated.

 

I took the radiator out to make more room to roll it over, but I do plan on putting it back in before I try to fire it.

I'm going to pull the heads tonight, Lord willing. I'll take pictures, and hopefully a video of it running soon!

 

Good. Like someone said earlier, pull your nuts off. then leave the plugs in and crank it over. Should raise up slightly. Then GENTLY work it up with prybars. Go gentle so you don't mar anything. When you get your gaskets, It's usually not a whole lot more to just get the whole kit.

 

before I go to far, is there an easy way to tell if the block is cracked?

 

Just put some gas down the carb and start it. It won't run long with a carb bowl full of gas.. Hook up a oil pressure gauge to see what kind of pressure it makes. If valves are stuck it might not start. Or at least it will have a real good miss. Then you will know what to do from there...

 

Maybe I'm just a worry-wart, but if it's been sitting that long and you want to use that engine... For the cost of rings, bearings, and a set of gaskets you could have a chance to go through it and give it a good internal inspection. Might save you from puting a rod though a hard-to-replace block.

You could take the risk. But what's the value in starting it right now? I'm ***uming that you plan to overhaul it soon anyway.

Having said all that, I'd be tempted to get it running right away, too -- for the excitement of hearing it and bragging rights of saying, "Yup, it was parked since '65 and it started right up. Damn, these flatheads are great motors!". But hopefully reason and caution would take over and I'd minimize the risk of damage.

 

pull the intake off before the heads ,I got my valves unstuck by working in the tappet valley, also gives good access to intake valves top and bottom of the guides

 

If this was an overhead valve engine where you ran the risk of damaging a piston I could understand all the caution, but this is a flat head folks!! worst it will do if the valves stick open is a backfire or a really bad miss. Dump a little marvel down the carb and crank it over a little to lube the valve stems, put some gas in it and let it fly....the worst it will do is miss if you have a stuck valve and even then the vibration will shake them loose a lot of the time then a little heat and gasoline and mystery oil as it runs will usually clean them right up.

Relax and fire it up!!!
These engines are tough, I think everyone is getting there ******* in a bunch for nothing . Have fun and drive it around the block!!

I got a 57 ford custom 300 with a Y block 292 once that the valve covers and carb were off for YEARS, it was full of crud and mouse nests, I got some used rockers, a carb, marveled the hell out of it and within 3 days got it unstuck and drove it around the block, it was a hoot. The only down side was one of my neighbors came over and chewed me out....the reason and how they found me you ask?!? The front seal on the fordomatic went kaput about 300 feet from my house and I left a gleaming trail of ****** fluid............all the way around the block and right back to my garage hahahha!!!

 

Follow Bruce Lancaster's advice to the letter and you'll probably have good success!

Try this link:

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

Don't know if I'd squirt this in the cylinders though unless it was stuck. If not stuck Marvel is probably better than Kroil IMHO.

 

I would be ever so tempted to run a compression test and just fire that baby up. What's the worst that could happen?

It turns over, so you know the rings aren't frozen to the cylinder walls. You know the valves and lifters aren't totally rusted to the guides. The valves may stick up, but a compression test would let you know if something like that is wrong. I'd try to fix the fuel pump since it probably didn't fix itself in the intervening years.

If you do decide to pull the heads, I would remove the nuts or bolts with an impact wrench. You will be far less likely to break a stud/bolt.