I want to spray a hi fill primer over a PPG non-sandable primer (dp74lf) to cover sanding marks and some small metal pitting and am trying to decide whether to use the feather fill, feather fill g2 or the slick sand product- any preferences? I do not have to worry about California emmisions etc.
I have used PCL (Pacific Coast Lacquer) PC901 HIGH PERFORMANCE HI-FILL POLYESTER PRIMER SURFACER with good results
Thanks for the info., do you know if it is compatible with the PPG epoxy primer (I've been told some hi fill primers are not) and where it is available?
The Feather Fill G2 is good stuff. It makes the regular feather fill obsolete. Give it a few days out in the sun to cure, and it sands nice. It's good that you have another primer down already though, because it is polyester based (like plastic fillers) and will absorb moisture. I used to work in a shop that did a lot of fibergl*** cars, and we used the G2 with much success. Price is fair too.
use this all the time, sands nice and dries quick, have not had any top coat issues with it either. used feather fill years back and was not impressed with the way it sanded.
Ya and its a urethane made to go over the DP series. Those others are polyester primers and will probably have way too much build for what you're after.
Thanks for the comments, I had gotten the recommendation for the feather fill product from the PPG rep but didn't know they had three products so failed to ask which one. I don't know why he didin't recommend the PPG product but it may have been because I have purchased the Rage products in the past and he may have thought I wanted to stick with Evercoat. I will go back and see what he says.
Many PPG reps, even master 'platinum' dealers often don't know the high end products. They only know what the local shops are using. I picked up some PPG Omni MP282 hi build 2K primer, which is an acrylic urethane, just yesterday. I am going to do the fenders on my 47 chev truck to try out the product. It was $65 a gallon, plus hardener.
Go ahead and bash me, but why not use more Epoxy? It won't shrink, and you won't find anything more stable. With the Epoxy I used, it also doubles as a guide coat, and even has some build. My '35 has no 2K on it-it's all Epoxy. More work, yes. Epoxy=no surprises-
I'd appeciate knowing how you like it, are you puttin it over an epoxy primer? I won't be able to paint mine for a couple of weeks so I have some time to decide which way to go.
Hey man, ive actually used that in some of my cheaper jobs, and really, its pretty decent stuff. May wana go in and fill some of your deeper pitting but it should coverlight stuff. Maybe have to spray, blocksand, then spray a bit more on. Rather than one heavy douching. You want your film build on the thinner side.
This is the best stuff I have ever seen-it has more build and is more sandable than PPG- http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Photos/spi_070202_0256-2.jpg- as far as Prep, first I sanded it with 180, then I use this- http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Photos/wax grease remover.jpg Then I use Glasurit 360-4, which is a "Panel cleaner"-I've completely cleaned with Wax and Grease Remover before only to have a clean Towel come up dirty with the 360-4-amazing stuff, but not real cheap. Nothing I've seen will get a Panel cleaner- This is what the Epoxy looks like on the Car-
I used to use dp all the time till i started having lifting and reactions with it. now i use self etching then the polly then ppg sealer then top coat. no problems in the past 15 years doing it that way. i never use anything finer than 80 grit on bare or painted surface before the self etching or polly primer.
how did u get lifting and reactions? ive never had problems with ppg epoxy. other then its a waste of money, since tehre are other epoxies out there that actually have build and u can block. im glad its illegal in socal now. which etch and poly do u use. MOST polys dry like **** and have problems over etch. the cheap ones like pcl say u can. but the true super high build, dont.
35WINDOW - What EXACTLY did you use on that coupe in your last picture (Part #). The Southern Primer in your first picture shows that it's white primer. Is it the same stuff, only "Black"? That's just what I'm looking for to do my frame...
The SPI Epoxy comes in White, Gray or Black-remember, though that Epoxies don't have UV protection, so they don't do well in direct sunlight over time-a Frame would be perfect, though-I used 6620-1 (Blakc-Gallon) By the way, his Wax & Grease Remover (waterborne) is great stuff!
SEM self etching and PCL polly. back in the mid 80' had a bunch of problems with it lifting after putting down the feather fill. had some problems with bleed through after a few months in the sun also. ppg rep could not figure out what was reacting so he said it was the primer. swithced over to dupont and did a couple of completes but did not like it so went back with ppg. had a guy that would come back with the paint peeled back on itself a couple times and could not figure out what was going on, one day i was at his radiator shop and noticed one of his guys washing a truck i had painted a few weeks earlier and he was using a landa 4500 psi hot water pressure washer on it! yeh no wonder it would peel and then restick itself! no more problems with that after a little talk with him.
so u were using the 1k self etch with pcl poly? poly sticks well to bare metal, so i dont feel there is a need for a groundcoat other then corrosion protection,b ut i would go epoxy since etch ****s with poly. i find it humorous that the ppg rep would say use sem etch, pcl or evercoat poly, then on to whatever.
never had any problems with the sem and the polly. nice thing about the polly is usually one block and it is on to paint.
i dont recommend it. if cut too soon, some shrinking can occour. yes collision has a one primer deal and all, but on a complete, u will atleast want to get one 150/180/220 block seesion then a final prime.
Sorry for the delay but funerals and my son making me work too hard have delayed the project, obviously not going to get done in 2 weeks! I did go back to the PPG rep and ask about the recommendation using Feather Fill and as I said before because I had used the Rage products he felt these would work fine over the DP primer but suggested I contact tech. service which I did and the recommendation came back to use their new hi build primer DPS3055. Did not want to comment on using anyother products. Further suggested that after using the hi build primer I seal it with another coat of DP74- I didn't catch this quick enough to ask but all of their tech data sheets say that you have to cover the DP74 with a surfacer before the base coat so this make no sense to me. Beginning to think that since this is not a show truck I'm better off to go with simple one part system, at least I don't think I'll get a headache trying to understand what to do! I did watch Overspray's film which is absolutely great, amazes me how much some people are willing to share. Many Thanks, will let you know what I finally do but am leaning toward the Feather lite g2 filler and a Sherwin Williams lacquer system with a top coat.
No insult meant but this sounds like a quick redo correct? Why not just stick to a simple easy system such as just using the Evercoat straight over bare metal or Squeeg's products. Mixing and matching is just going to coat you addtl money in reducers and hardeners for each product. DP was great DPLF is ok at best. They are saying to spray as a seal coat which is mixed differently. PPG NCP can be used as a etch. fill and seal coat all in one product. Has a fairly high build of approx 5 mils. Keeps costs down by using one product. There is no way I would prep an entire body with 80 grit. What kind of heat are you generating? 180 is fine. Interesting opinions.
The Jalopy Journal
