Need Clarity: Do I NEED different SBF timing cover?

Guys, I've searched in here and the internet for about, oh, 3 hours. I can't stand it any more, and am going to ask the question. I have found MANY posts in here, and elsewhere, but I have to know:
I have a 1993 5.0 H.O. (stroked out to 347) with T-5, going into a 32 Roadster race car. I plan to run the V Style belts.

Do I NEED a different timing cover for this? I have read yes and no. Anybody have any NO SHIT data on this (i.e. are YOU using this setup)?

Pulleys: mid 80's Ford Truck?

Short water pump (need the space): mid 80's Mustang?

I understand the in's and out's of the swap, I am not sure of the above questions, and would like to know before I go kicking around with the black widows and hornets in the junk yard

Stay tuned for the stuff I took off of it, most of it is upgraded stuff, due to the engine being almost 500HP, haha get it while it's hot.

I'm going to bed...thanks JL

 

mornin bump

 

With the last three times I used a newer 302 / 5.0 (with the original serpentine belt system), to convert it,... I had to use the early timing chain cover, the old style water pump (the newer pump's flow is reversed),... basically everything from the front of the block forward except the vibration dampener and timing chain set,...

I also retro fitted the oil pump pick up and pan, you will now have two dip stick holes, I used the early one on the timing chain cover and turned a steel plug to block off the other dip stick tube hole on the drivers side of the block 3/4 of the way back from the front. hope this helps,.....

P.S.,....... just wait until you start messing around with pulleys !

 

yeah, I heard this is a major bitch

 

Yep ! You have to change the whole front from the block out !
I am going to be going through the same thing . I have a 1985 Ford 302 and after looking at all the BS , I said forget it ! I will leave it alone and just have one belt !

 

Yep, you need to change from front of block out. Serp belt is reverse rotation and will not work. It is not a big deal just go to bone yard and get every thing at one time.

 

I have an older (standard water pump rotation) timing cover w/ fuel pump mounting boss and block-off, if you need it.



Malcolm

 

FWIW... i've got a short drive kit on the '46. Uses a 95 mustang timing cover (no provision for fuel pump) 95 mustang water pump, pulley's are mostly crown vic stuff. Used it with a Painless smallblock front drive kit that's no longer available, but the brackets wouldn't be that hard to fab up...I've got the list of pulleys, pump, etc i used if it would help.

 

I'm running a 93 5.0 HO cobra engine in my 66 mustang, i carbed it, decided to go with the one belt set up after i found out about all the bs you had to go through

 

This gets argued all the time. I have used late model timing cover with standard puimps more thn one and according to Ford Racing the replacement timing cover they sell has this description;

Fits 289/302/351W
• For standard rotation
pump or M-8501-B50​

reverse rotation pump

 

haha, of of WHAT??

I jsut may need it. I have to figure out WHAT I do need, and from what, and WHY....

hmmm

so, you just grabbed v-belt pulleys and alternator bracket, and that's that?

 

I've done this both directions - converting an older timing cover to reverse water pump and full serpentine setup, and converting the 5.0 late model timing cover to early standard water pump and V belt(s). The timing cover has the same water pump pattern back to the late '60s, whether reverse or standard rotation, so you can use a water pump from almost any 302 from the '70s to be safe. Bolts on and works fine.

Mid '80s Mustang will be serpentine, so you'll have to go earlier to get what you want, but if you are running just an alternator, look at plain jane '70s 302 F150s or late '60s Torino, Mustang, and lots of other Fords for the simple pulleys. If you use the pulley system from loaded cars with options, they will be multi-sheave and not look as nice. You can go aftermarket aluminum as well, painted black if you don't want the billet showing, but they can get pricey.

There are lots of options, but it's best to get most items from one vehicle so the belts line up, Ford was famous for making pulleys that look the same but have multiple different depths for different applications. Just look around and you'll find what you need.

-KK

 

That and the proper water pump, yes.

 

well, more info. Just pulled off the water pump, EFI, Intake, etc. I have a RTCF-302D Timing Cover. It is the one that is without crankshaft sensor, with electric fuel pump. That was a lot easier than I thought...I have to re read all these posts...

thanks for all the good info!

 

The only SBF timing cover that would have a crank sensor would be one for a distributorless engine. Those were only in the late '90s+ Explorers.

Timing cover is pretty standard across most SBFs. No matter what cover you have, you can run whichever water pump you need (reverse rotation for serpentine, standard for V-belts). If you want to run a mechanical fuel pump, be sure the timing cover has the provision for it. If you run a front-sump oil pan (most '60s cars including Mustang) then make sure your timing cover has a hole for the dipstick tube. If you run a center-sump oil pan (truck/van) or a "double-sump" ('80s-90s Fox-body) oil pan -actually a rear sump with clearance for the oil pump at the front- then make sure your engine block has the hole for the dipstick tube. It will be just above the pan mounting surface on the bottom of the block, usually on the driver's side.

 

Just wanted to add a bit of information.
Be sure the junk yard engine is a 302 and not a 351W. The pulleys will not work. Mine ended up with a different size guide hole and no room between pulleys. Live and learn..

 

There are also double hump pans with the dipstick in the side of the pan!

 

Not completely true. Tbird cougar crown vic and maybe some others use a crank sensor in the early 80s with EEC III.

 

What I ran into while converting a late 302 to earlier front dress for an old Mustang was pulley issues like everyone said above, but it's not as simple as grabbing matching pulleys off of an earlier donor engine. The late model 302 harmonic balancer and the earlier pulleys use different bolt patterns (3 bolts versus 4 bolts). You simply cannot bolt earlier pulleys on.

 

I've been down this road with an early (73) 302. Wasted a lot of time looking for a 3 bolt pulley with 3 sheaves so I could run A/c and PS in my 47 coupe. Buy a harmonice balancer from Speedway that is drilled for 3 and 4 hole pulley. Needed the balancer anyhow since mine had a groove worn in it from the oil seal. Bonus was no more oil drips from front seal.

 

there are inexpensive sleeves available to fix this.