got a new b engine today came home in boxes.well most of it.I have to find a side cover and front cover and oilpan. It has a real nice counter weight crank .02 under the babbitt looks real nice in the block and the rods and the bores are .08 over they might need a hone. what is the best way to clean the block I dont wont to heart the babbitt. I wont to put bigger valves any one now a good part# to use for a valve that can be cut to fit? thanks for any help Bill
Got the steering sorted on the T http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4137504#post4137504
it's not a tobacco barn,,, is it an orchard?? believe it or not in mass, I've had my best luck with abandoned property left to the state!
Got my Mallory dist. from Tom "Tub in da dirt", I installed it advanced to where it was hard to start (kickback), then I kept retarding it until it would start hot. Is this ok?? Or, do you recommend a different timing procedure? It made a HUGE difference in performance. Let me know your thoughts on the timing issue.
Woot! i drove it today! and then i ran out of gas right here. just in time... the head back on and running pretty good. vids to come!
The timing key (possible not proper name) is a plastic piece that you place into the round holes on the point plate to change the advance setting. It is marked in degrees of advance. I believe Summit Racing still sells them
Big weekend for the A! Last week at Snyder's I picked up all of the goodies and tools I've been needing to do some much needed repairs on the roadster. - I picked up a wrench for the water pump which turns out is invaluable tool for the whooping $3 or so it cost! Packed it with new graphite rope, tightened it down and no more drips! - Got a new lense for both the tail light and license plate light. Ended up taking out the old sockets and wiring, welding in new ones and pretty much rebuilding the whole tail light (all for like $10! a lot cheaper than a new one!) It's nice to have a real tail light and be able to run my real license plate -Picked up the tool to get the gas gauge out (it's a two part deal) and a new float. Who knew my gauge had all of those numbers?!?! So now I have no excuse to run out...ha ha ha Next on the agenda...shocks!
Hey Megan, shocks are next on my coupe, too. And a torque tube baffle to keep all the rear diff fluid from draining into the tranny
Haha! I was just looking at those baffles a few days ago, too! I got my 1932 4 cyl radiator today. It has a few punctures in it so it's going to need a core. Could be patched but not pretty like. Still, I'm working on getting that gennie 32 passenger grill on the car!
What temps are you running? Mine is getting to about 160. Coool is better than hot, but is that too cool?
I would say I run about 160 - 180. I drove it for a few hours on a 104 degree day two weeks ago and it was maybe 175-ish...
"You gota be kidding, Timing key? For an A. This I gota see. Iceman" Dude--It's for the Mallory dist. as Just plain Bill explained. Even I have one somewhere. (I think I know where)
have some problems with my stock banger. motor starts really well but its missing. and its not just one cylinder, it's all of them randomly missing. ignition is good to go. the carb is pooling with fuel, plugs are black and partially wet sometimes. i can lean out the idle mixture screw until its closed and it still just sits there idleing. is this a float level problem? ive got 2 gaskets on the kneedle and seat and the float level is about 1/2" from the top of the bowl. i'm learning about this carb as i go. what do you guys think it could be?
ive tried 2 needle and seats with the same results. one old and one new. both passed the blow test, and totally seat themselves. i ended up choosing the older one of the two because it placed the float better with less spacing. ill try the shut off idea tho.
I had my tank build presser in the hot sun and push past the seat and flood my engine with my down draft. I open my cap when I get to a show now just to be safe.
Are you running a pump? Gravity? It sounds like a float level problem to me. If you are running a pump, you may have too much pressure overwhelming the float.
just gravity, im currenty just running it off a small lawnmower tank. im going to space the needle more. i hope it works.
Google Mallory part # 29015 you will see the "key" or gauge pictured in the kit. The steps correspond to different advance settings
Posted on the main forum but will also ask here. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=382244 Model A Wheel Studs... To swedge or not to swedge I am re-building the brakes on the Tudor and will need to replace the original drums, they are way too thin. What are your opinions on having to use the original style studs and swedging in place. I am also updating my wheels to 40 style steel. If possible i would like to go with a longer wheel stud. I am considering using a press in type stud in the hub. Are there any drawbacks to not having the drum secured to the hub via the wheel studs? Russ Mitchell 29 Tudor
If you're using original mechanicals, an upgrade to the new cast iron drums produces a lot better braking action. That and the Flathead Ted kit will let you lock up all four at 55 like in his video. I believe you're right that using '40 or later wheels requires longer studs. Check the support of the later wheel against the brake drum. Some have issues, and a lot of folks know more about this than I do, so I hope they will wake up soon...(smile) Fearless
Didn't bother with swedging, myself. Couldn't locate any longer, press-in studs either (I'm using Merc steels on a '30 Tudor), so bought a bag of high strength bolts and grafted them in. I used small UNF countersunk screws to secure the hub to the drum, and welded in the pins to the back of the hub. You need to spin up a small collar for each of the pins, to centre them in the hole, and then bolt the hub/drum assembly to a wheel prior to welding. The heads of the set-screws were also shaped in the lathe to sit in recess in the hub. I've done this on two cars now with no problems. Just watch the weld spatter on your drum braking surface. Spraying some WD40 onto them first stops the spatter from sticking, just don't forget to give them a wipe later.
I am keeping the mechanicals. I have the Flathead Ted kit. I already made up some spacers so that the new rims will sit flat on the drums. The original style studs do not leave a lot of thread exposed when using the 40 style rims.
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