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Best way to clean a gas tank?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Crash, May 26, 2009.

  1. Crash
    Joined: Jan 20, 2005
    Posts: 26

    Crash
    Member
    from Poplar, WI

    My tank looks like new, no rust on the outside, but the inside is bad!!!! Wondering what you guys use to clean the sludge out of them???
     
  2. choppintops
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,460

    choppintops
    BANNED

    A hand full of rocks, a couple gallons of water and two non whimpy guys. Put the rocks and water in the tank, pick it up and slosh it back and forth.

    Or steam clean it, or have a radiator shop boil it.
     
  3. OLDSKEWL61
    Joined: Feb 8, 2006
    Posts: 565

    OLDSKEWL61
    Member

    12in. of trucker chain(3/8) Qt of muratic acid shake like hell if its no baffled if it is baffled leave out the chain and swirl it around
     
  4. Do a search on the subject, tons of good ideas on here, I cleaned out the sludge in mine with liquid carb cleaner, about 6 1 inch nuts and a length of chain, slosh it around or haul it around in your truck, you wont believe the nasty that comes out.

    Brad
     
  5. choppintops
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,460

    choppintops
    BANNED

    Wow, I honestly never thought of that,,,,,,, BRILLIANT!!!!!
     
  6. 39 Ford
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 1,558

    39 Ford
    Member

    I would take it to a radiator shop and let them do it. No need to end up on the side of the road with a clogged fuel line. What ever you do make sure you use at least 1 or 2 good filters. I like one in the rear and one after the fuel pump.
     
  7. Ghost28
    Joined: Nov 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,195

    Ghost28
    Member

    I just pulled the tank out of a 1960 corvette it was so bad the float bubble had rusted off. And that was here in colo. but for only $155.00 for a new one. It was a no brainer to avoid the hassle of cleaning and go new. If they make yours...ghost
     
  8. Crease
    Joined: May 7, 2002
    Posts: 2,878

    Crease
    Member

    Replacment or a trip to the radiator shop is the best solution. However, I've had great luck with several gallons of CLR and a couple pounds of old bolts.
     
  9. shortbed65
    Joined: Feb 20, 2009
    Posts: 204

    shortbed65
    Member
    from ne Ill

    Try E-85 gasoline that will eat the varnish,
    rust needs sheetmetal screws and bolts with kerosene (safer than gas)
     
  10. Moparhead
    Joined: Dec 2, 2006
    Posts: 236

    Moparhead
    Member

    I'm just finishing doing this myself.I used diluted muriatic acid,a chain and roofing nails.It looks great inside,just a few minor spots.I'm planning to fill it with water(23 gal) and a quart of muriatic acid and let sit overnight,but
    I'm wondering if that solution is too strong.Any ideas?

    Fuzzy
     
  11. Sir Woosh
    Joined: Dec 1, 2008
    Posts: 2,273

    Sir Woosh
    Member

    Do the Jiffy Pop with the tank if you don't have help. I used the chain trick in mine. Had a bunch of strong rubber bungee straps and made a simple hanging basket. I made it loose enough to turn the tank completely over to catch all areas while shaking it back and forth. Came out clean as a whistle for me. Used a sealer treatment and everything has worked fine.
    Check to see if there's a new one available for your application as I've seen them for the more popular models very reasonable.
    None was available for mine and the Jiffy Pop trick works......
     
  12. 29nash
    Joined: Nov 6, 2008
    Posts: 4,542

    29nash
    BANNED
    from colorado

    Been down the cleaning road. Some successful, some not so successful. The radiator shop route cost nearly half of what a new one would have. Never again. Like Ghost says, new one. If nobody makes it make your own. I just had a 14 gallon one welded up for my '29 last fall, $150
     
  13. Some cars tanks are not available new for, and the local rad shops around here wont touch a tank. Thats the only reason I cleaned mine, I did plug one fuel filter, but have had no trouble lately, We will see how it fares over the winter though.

    Brad
     
  14. cosmo53
    Joined: Sep 14, 2007
    Posts: 228

    cosmo53
    Member

    I used the cleaning and sealing kit from eastwood. That plus the bottle of muriatic acid was about 50 or 60 bucks. Also started the process with the nut and bolt trick then used the eastwood kit. I'm really happy with the results.
     
  15. InPrimer
    Joined: Mar 10, 2003
    Posts: 778

    InPrimer
    Member

    FWIW, muriatic acid is about 10 % rest is water just be careful acid has no consience wear gloves and eye protection, Now I feel better.... might sound like your old man but better safe than sorry...
     
  16. BMR
    Joined: Jan 3, 2009
    Posts: 28

    BMR
    Member
    from ill.

    a friend of mine took a couple of old side glass out of a car,broke them,put glass into tank, strapped to electric concrete mixer, turned on and walked away for sometime.
     
  17. BBobb
    Joined: Feb 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,860

    BBobb
    Member


    I did the same has 39 ford.The radiator shop also pressure tested it also.Piece of mind for future leaks down the road
     
  18. calpyro
    Joined: Sep 28, 2008
    Posts: 30

    calpyro
    Member
    from napa

    I have done this a couple of times. Use lacquer thinner first to remove any oily sludge.
    I use electrolysis to remove the rust without attacking the base metal.
    To do this, suspend an anode inside the gas tank using foam insulation. I constructed the anode from rebar formed into an inverted Tee spot welded inside the tank.
    Fill the tank with water and Arm and Hammer LAUNDRY SODA, not baking soda solution. Connect a DC battery charger negative to the tank and positive to the tank.
    Run overnight and the tank should be clean within 24 hours.

    I use this method for rust removal on all my restorations. It really works.

    http://antique-engines.com/electrol-details.asp

    http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

    http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm
     

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