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36 Chevrolet Pickup low cab

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hercules, Jul 26, 2009.

  1. Hercules
    Joined: Mar 4, 2009
    Posts: 3

    Hercules
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    Anyone have any ideas to pull the radiator on a 36 Chevy 1/2T low cab pickup other than dismantle the entire front clip. Truck has a 56 235" six in it now that is fairly tight to firewall and radiator. So far the 36 club members tell me font clip removal and that is a big a** project!!!:mad:
     
  2. fordcragar
    Joined: Dec 28, 2005
    Posts: 3,198

    fordcragar
    Member
    from Yakima WA.

    What I've done is remove the bolts that mount the headlight bracket to the fender and then unbolt the grille shell from the fenders. I just left the fenders bolted on. It is a big job, but this way I didn't have to deal with the fenders.

    Are you going to replace the radiator?
     
  3. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 8,706

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    You will most likely have to remove the front clip some to get it out,if you had a 54 on back motor the removal of the water pump would make it easy but with a 55 on up motor its going to be harder,I have a 37 with a 57 235 that had a shortened pump on it that broke and went into the radiator and I had to brake the water pump to remove it. I had another shortened pump but it would not go back in with the radiator still in and I doubt the radiator could be removed with the pump in so apart came the front clip,I put it back togather with a 54 water pump and adapter and I think I can get the radiator out by removing the water pump and hood which I might have to do since I think the repair did not hold and its leaking.
     
  4. Hercules
    Joined: Mar 4, 2009
    Posts: 3

    Hercules
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    Yes,with something.The old honey comb radiators wern't made for Texas heat. Any ideas on replacements that don't require you going to the bank and taking a 2nd lein on the house. I am thinking about going modern on the front end at the same time...
     
  5. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 8,706

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    I had a local radiator shop put in a 4 row core in my radiator but it was about 15 years ago and cost me about 250 back then,it wont get any hotter then 180 with a stock fan.
     
  6. Black Primer
    Joined: Oct 1, 2007
    Posts: 965

    Black Primer
    Member

    Check out Ford 5000 tractor radiators. Do a search, theres plenty of info on here. I put one in my 37 and so far so good.
     
  7. fordcragar
    Joined: Dec 28, 2005
    Posts: 3,198

    fordcragar
    Member
    from Yakima WA.

    We have a 36 Chev PU that I used a radiator from a 1974 Ford LTD. The radiator is a crossflow, which turned up on it's side and it works great. Measure your old radiator and check it with the Ford radiator. I bought mine from Performance Radiator, part number 401CBR. They're about $220 now. It won't be a bolt in but will be easy to use.

    http://www.usaradiator.com/FORD--LTD--1974.html

    I had a re-cored 1936 Chev radiator in it for a number of years and it never cooled as well as the Ford crossflow does. In 100 degree plus temperature, I'll watch the temp gauge creep up then I'll kick it out of gear and crack the trottle and the temp will drop back down to normal. This is installed in the 36 with a warmed up 350 in it. I have a friend that is running the same thing in a 37 GMC with a big block and his works great too.

    I plugged the filler neck and built a filler that that goes inline with the upper hose. So on the upper hose, there is a short piece of hose, the filler adapter, and a longer piece of hose going to the thermostat housing. Built some brackets and was done.

    If I was going to another one, I'd do the same thing; it has never had a problem cooling it with this radiator.
     

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