hi all, was wondering if anyone has built up one of these motors. Has potentail for lots of power and with 7 main bearings shoulf be good and strong. Pics would be great if you have any. Cheers, KJ
Ditto Post #3 and 4. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=360216 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=371613
Yep - Give Greg K. a holler (FrenchtownFlyer) - that'd definitely be a great person to talk to about those 300 sixes (and a bunch of other stuff as well)
If I had a Ford ******, I'd go find one. They are suposed to be quite the motor when warmed up a bit.
like this? A mild build with stock pistons ,RV cam, 410cfm Holly, Headman headers. Much more can be done with these but it will cost you bucks. Lots of info out on the web.
There was an article or two in old Petersen "Engines" specials from the 60s. Ak Miller built one, stuffed it into a Mustang, and went a buck fifty at Bonneville. Nothing too exotic by modern standards. I think he used Chevy pistons and valves, a flat-tappet cam, and lots of slightly m***aged stock stuff. It might be all obsolete by now, but at least there is evidence that it can be done.
I understand that one of the " TRICKS " is to use the much longer 240 six cylinder connecting rod. The 240 and the 300 use the same piston ( I was told ) and the 240 ( with the shorter stroke ) needed a longer rod ... where the piston would come all the way to the top.
just picked up a complete one off Graig's list for $25, thinking about sticking it in my 51 shoebox with a AOD behind it, big friggin motor!
I'm running one in my shop truck, have owned several. This one has a Comp 268H cam and it's too much cam for a work truck, moves the rpm band up a bit too high for me. I am also running an Offy C intake with 390 cfm Holley, EFI split manifold and a homebrew ignition using a duraspark dist, efi coil and GM module. It is in an F250 with a ZF 5 speed and 4.10 gear. Makes one stout truck. I tied the exhaust into the original 351 system and it's nice and quiet. The drawback is the heads and if you read on fordsix you will find it is the limiting factor. However for a mild street engine they respond well to a basic clean up. Some people claim the 240 head will help and it does bump the compression a bit. Personally I would use a head from the 73 to 86 because of the hard valve seats, and find the one with adjustable type rocker studs. You can pick up some extra valve lift by using chevy 250 rocker arms. I plan to get a ported head on mine this winter and a different cam.
Use to run a 300 in a circle track car. Used a 302 piston and took about .090 off the deck and enough off the top of the piston to remove eyebrow and this gave .004 out of the hole or piston above the deck. Used an old moon cam (don't remember specks). Used aluminum cam gear and machined a groove in the middle of the gear for oil relief for additional HP. Did a good balance job with polished beam rods and plenty of head work and used a Clifford 4BB intake with custom holly set up. Car had awesome torque and good durability. Blew a couple of head gaskets until we went to the felpro perma torque and that solved the sealing problem. Bottom line results was a really compe***ive car set up.
The engine is really long, thats going to be a lot of work. This thread is starting to get good, Ray, those are some things I never thought of, sounds like you came up with a good recipie, how did the thinner deck on the pistons work out? any problems with hot spots?
A fellow, named Joe Hendricks from Verdin Il., , ran one in his FED. Had a Ford V8 head( well, three pieces furnace-brazed together), Roller cam, lots of other goodies..ran in the mid-8's or better in the quarter at a number of tracks in his area(Indy, Wentzville, Cordova). Pretty impressive, I thought....
Mike its been a few years since I did this but once the head sealing problem was corected it was trouble free and no hot spots.I can't swear to it but I believe the top ring on the piston was about .150 off the deck and made a lot of compression and horsepower. I do remember we used a 500 cfm holly carb and of course a good ignition. Since we ran circle a really light aluminum flywheel was used and with a top loader 4 speed transmission. Later on I built a spare motor and used aluminum rods and it also ran well but considerable more maintaince so I went back to steel rods. Another thing I remember was I also used a tapered light weight wrist pin in the pistons but cant recall the bobweight on the motor but was very light .
Theres one in a 65 f100 we just bought. We did some research and found you can load up the damn things and still get 20 miles to the gallon so thats what were going to do.(has to be rebuilt anyway) (fordsix.com is good for info)As for the 240 and interchangeable pieces i'm not shure but the 240 in 69 f1 hauls *** around town and can fly on the freeway still getting 20 miles to the gallon.
the 300 can be a monster motor! Ford tried to kill it off but kept coming back with EFI and emissions and it kept chugging along! I had one in a 95 F-150 XL dual tanks and manual 5 overdrive! Loved that truck used it to haul my junk from Army post to my next ***ignments! Wife traded it in during my first Iraq tour for an XLT 5.4, which is nice but don't seem to have the grunt!
Here is a couple of shots of a Boss 302 made to fit a 300 ford 6 and if memory serves me it was CJ Batten that designed the first one. CJ was a designer Ford hired way back to work on a ****le motor and he alsdo did a lot of work for Roush
Good power can be had, fairly inexpensively, without hurting (possibly improving)MPG and reliability: Chev 250 rockers = to a RV camshaft. Ford 4.9 (EFI I6) cast iron exh manifolds flow as good as most headers. Mild head porting (done by you, with your die grinder) makes it a "free-breather". Offy or Clifford 4BBL intakes, with Holley 390cfm or Edelbrock 500cfm make good power and good MPG. A DS2 dizzy with a GM HEI module, and EFI long electrode spark plugs give a reliable, potent ignition. You can learn about all this and a whole lot more at fordsix.com. Most of these things can easily be done by the average Joe, on the cheap. Start hitting the junkyards and swap meets.
I ran one in my first truck when I was 16, not that long ago as Im only 21. I am looking at buying one to transplant in the 47 Ih KB6 trying to maintain a stock look with more power and not having to deal with the IH engine.
really not sure i'm going to do this, it would be super kool but it is 33inchs long and really don't want to cut the firewall to do it
IIRC, I measured mine at 35.63" from BMS to front of fan blade. Another trick, if you will, is the hot water plate under the intake manifold....smooths out the throttle response on the Carter Y.
I use a Ford hot water spacer on mine. Some people build one to go under the intake where the stock exhaust heat riser was. Lots of people don.t want to go past .040 but stock 2 bbl 390 pistons in a .050 overbore should work good. I think I figured them about 9:1
They have a tendancy to egg shape the front cylender if you get the walls too thin. It even happens with a stock bore if you don't watch your thermostat or use the right sized radiator.
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