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Generator Problem

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by digger 7576, Jul 28, 2009.

  1. digger 7576
    Joined: Sep 14, 2006
    Posts: 71

    digger 7576
    Member
    from Colorado

    I am running a 59a with only lights on fuse block and have a rebuilt generator, new vr, polarized, I have rechecked my wiring and it looks to be correct according to all the posted diagrams. Yet when I remove the positive battery cable it dies. Is this a reliable check to see if the generator is charging? Does the engine need to be idling at a high speed to keep it charging? I have read previous posts and seem to be doing everything correct but can't figure out what the problem is. Battery is new also. I must be doing something wrong but can't find it. Any thoughts? :confused:
     
  2. Normal Norman
    Joined: Aug 9, 2006
    Posts: 510

    Normal Norman
    Member
    from Goshen IN.

    digger, You don't mention a volt meter check at the battery,that is the first place I would check to see if its charging or not. N.N.
     
  3. digger 7576
    Joined: Sep 14, 2006
    Posts: 71

    digger 7576
    Member
    from Colorado

    N.N, what should it read for a 12v battery? 14.1 or 12?
     
    Early Ironman likes this.
  4. j ripper
    Joined: Aug 2, 2006
    Posts: 864

    j ripper
    Member
    from napa ca.

    i would first see if you have the correct voltage regulator. it should be a B circuit. double check with tech who rebuilt it.
     
  5. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    First and foremost the engine needs to be running at 800-1000 RPM for a generator to be charging. If it is running fast enough to carry any electrical load present ,the engine will continue to run with one cable pulled. A very rough and ready check for output. As far as the voltage shown at the battery that will vary acording to the state of the battery's charge. IE a low battery needs less [lower] voltage to take a charge than one nearly fully charged. Normal volt readings can vary from just over 12 volts with a low battery to 13.6 -14.4 with a fully charged battery depnding on the voltage regulator settings.
     
  6. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    440 Roadrunner: You must never have driven a semi type truck. Tires ARE checked by t******* with a hammer or billy club. A experianced driver can tell by the sound if a tire is a bit low!!
     
  7. Normal Norman
    Joined: Aug 9, 2006
    Posts: 510

    Normal Norman
    Member
    from Goshen IN.

    Digger, A good battery with no draw on it( key off) should read 12.5 give or take a couple of tenths. When the car is running you could expect to see about 14.4 or so. If thats what ya got then I would think your ok. Before someone jumps my **** on this I will say these are common numbers I see every day in my shop. The new cars we do see are running higher numbers, but these have todays electronics and require more juice. N.N.
     
  8. digger 7576
    Joined: Sep 14, 2006
    Posts: 71

    digger 7576
    Member
    from Colorado

    N.N., thank you for the help.

    440 Roadrunner, if you read my original post I asked if this was a reliable test, thanks for setting everyone straight. I hope to be as patient as you when I learn more about this hobby.
     
  9. j ripper
    Joined: Aug 2, 2006
    Posts: 864

    j ripper
    Member
    from napa ca.

    i believe a way to tell what circuit you have and also to tell if the generator is working is to run it like a motor. run a jumper from ground terminal to arm. then power to field and neg to gen body, that is a B circuit. running a jumper from ground terminal to field and power to arm and neg to gen body is an A circuit. this is how i understand it. someone please chime in if incorrect.
     

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