Ok,try not to stone me for the dumbest question ask lately....But i am working on an off topic rig,and have VERY limited space for a drivetrain.I just picked up a t-5 ******,and as you all know it has a VERY long tail shaft,and i need to gain 6 inches where there is none to be had...i was wondering if it was possible for a machine shop to knock the 6" outa the tail shaft ? To me it looks very simple if someone had all the necessary tools,Any help/other idea's would be nice.
Uh no. Not only would you have to shorten and respline the output shaft you would have to do something for the aluminum tailhousing.
But thinking out loud..... if you had a jeep T-5 meant for a 4x4 and took off the transfer case you would have a short transmission. Mayyyyybe somebody with the necessary machinery could fabricate a yoke that would spline to that transmission.
Yea but the t-5 has the shifter in the tail housing. along with gears mounted in that tailhousing. On the 84-87 fords the case holds all the gears and nothing except the speedo gears are in the tailhousing. Not saying you could never get it to work.... but it would be expensive.
ahhhh, I know nothing about the T5 In 1972 I was driving my 47 Mercury to Sugarland to see a girl named Colleen (but we called her Quayleen cause she did 'ludes) and I was stopped by the cops in Rosenberg. Got away with no ticket and repaired a hole in my radiator the next morning with a soldering gun.
get a shorter shaft and or move the engine forward and or rearend back. Strech the car and start a new look.? Lift it alot until you've got the 6?
A muncie or saginaw would solve your problem alot easier. About 6" shorter, I replaced my t5 with one and got a 5.5" longer driveshaft to make up the difference. If you absolutely have to have overdrive, a muncie is available as a 3+OD.
ok,a little info on a s10 t-5...the tail shaft has about 10" of tail shaft where there is nothing but speedo gear at the end so you could actually take out about 9" without geting into anything.I have also included a picture so everyone can see.The engine cannot be moved forward or backward AT ALL and stretching the wheel base is out of the question.Also for the record there are 3 different shifter placements that i am aware of,and an s10's is far forward.For those who say yes,what would a rough estimate on what i should pay to have it done ?
53' sled,what would i lok for to pull that type ****** out ? I really want the 5-speed tho.But have about 2 weeks to find SOME solution.
also,where can i have a custom clutch disk made that runs a hub to one ****** and the disk diameter of another ?
ok,scratch the custom disc question,and no to my knowledge they were never made as a short shaft.I myself can cut,shorten and weld the tailshaft housing but i don't really know what to do for the shaft.
Yea,i wondered the same thing about his "contribution" but found it funny enuff not to ask.....back on topic tho,any idea's on what it might cost to have my shaft shortened ?Does it have to be cut off and then new splines cut or can it be cut off sectioned and then re welded ?
just from some of my studies at school and some common sense, i think the best method would be to machine and respline the shaft. Sounds expensive though. My narrowed MII steering rack cost me 125 and that was just a cut, bore, and thread job. To cut the shaft, and then spine it might run pretty good, especially if the job includes ***embly and dis***embly.
Hmm,i guess the best thing to do would be call a machine shop and ask what they would charge....if i tear down and re***emble it all....i wanna put new seals in so this would be a great time.
Hypotheticaly tho,COULD it be cut/welded and hold up ? I am only pushing a max of MAYBE 150 flywheel HP,and no more than 175-180 flywheel torque.This would only be a last resort if the shop quot's to high a price.I am thinking bevel the edges,then clamp on 2 peaces of angle on each side of the shaft,then tack the opposing sides,then unclamp rotate and then tack,then continue this procedure in lets say half inch beads untill all is done...then clean up the welds...now i realize it would take a good clean weld surface and good solid welds but would it work ?
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