I'm finally getting around to building a "real" hotrod.at least that's my plans.Messed around with several old Chevy PU's,the usual stuff,lowering the ch***is a bit and other modifications. I'm looking for a 39-40 GMC or Chevy pu cab and frame,run it without fenders,and of course a lot lower.Yeah,I know some of you don't like the look fenderless late 30's stuff The roof may or may not be chopped depending on how it looks sitting on the frame. So to get the cab reasonably low but not dragging on the ground,would you suggest raising the cab floor or modifying the frame or a combination of both? I'm a thin 6 foot one and I prefer to drive not with my knees up in the air.When I drive these old trucks with a stock cab it's a tight fit for my tastes. I feel very confident about hacking up a frame and getting it back together in a safe true manner with the tools and skills I have.
My choice is: if you chop it 3", you stretch it 3"-4". This can be done in the door, behind the door, or a combination of both. That way you aren't loosing too much room in the cab. Channeling is a great look for vertically challenged people but for us over 6' guys, it just doesn't work. As for Z'ing a frame, as long as you have a 4" vertical section at the Z I don't have a problem with it. If you are going with 2"x3"x.125" I'd be using the lightest running gear possible, and it'd be for a ******* job, more along the lines of an RPU. Go with 2"x4" or 3"x4" for heavier running gear (SBC). If you run a BB, go for a 5" tube with a 3/16" wall. That's a lot of weight, and if you do tend to push your personal driving capabilities as well as your cars suspension, you'll need that stiffer frame. Those are just my thoughts. Dan Stevens dba, Steelsmith
Steelsmith : you building car or bridges?? 5" 3/16 wall ?? **** you would need a crane to move it. 2X4 .125 wall is more than enough. Truckedup: This thing is skating close to that dredded R-R look/words. Never saw a PU cab made after 34 or so that looked good fenderless.
The late 30's cabs already have a pocket under the cab for the frame. With a custom built frame it looks channeled but no need to redo the floor. We built this frame for a pals 38 GMC. (the whole thing is for sale too,he found a 28 roadster)
Well,I haven't seen one either....so mine will be the first The RR word is a state of mind,a type of build done to look ****ty and old and maybe a body plopped on a late model frame.This Rat rod and traditonal gets fuzzy at times.Anyway's it my vehicle to build. I appreciate the frame advice.I want it handle well for what is is and a stiff frame is required.I'm a hobbist builder,not an engineer so if nothing else I might have to over build frame modifications to be safe.I don't think an extra 50 pounds of steel down low will cause any problems.I do know a lot of weight in the center of the vehicle cam be a spin happy truck so gotta be careful.
Vaphead,I had a 37 Chevy truck for quite awhile and I understand your point,thanks for reminding me.I will use some sort of hood,so it'll hide some of cab ugly stuff. Your truck looks about the right height for me too.
It sits low,but not so low you can't drive it. Not chopped,(factory low cab version) And the frame sits under the cab in the factory relief. It'll need a bigger then stock trans tunnel,but plenty of room left for people. Going over to his place tonight to take pictures and list on e-bay. The roadster project has taken over !
I guess my concern for a BB in too light a frame was taken as over the top. When you Z a frame with a BB up front you want some serious metal at the 'step'. You can use your own judgement as to thickness of material to use, without knowing length of wheelbase, position of axles and other pertinent information this is just a general discussion. .125" wall is fine for for a 2" or 3"x5" tube frame with a BB in it. You might want to consider the additional thickness (3/16") for use when a BB is installed in a 2"x4". Smaller tube ch***is, (2"x3") shouldn't have a BB in them. Adding material (thickness) to a small tube ch***is doesn't address the lack of vertical stiffness that going to a 2"x4" tube would do. I guess I should have been more specific with my concerns. SB I'd think in general there'd be no need to go over a .125 wall. Keep in mind the distance between the axle and the step if you do a suicide axle. I'd think a 2"x4" tube, (or one that tapered) would be the right stuff. Alot of the ch***is materials should be dictated by the weight/placement of the powerplant. That's my story and I'm sticking to it! Dan Stevens dba, Steelsmith
i say a combinatiion of a channel to just cover the frame and then z the frame..if you cont have room stretch the cab..im 6 foot one also and when we built my buddies 31 model a pickup we chopped it 6 inches and channeled it 3..i fit ok in it but everyones opinion is different
If I could do it over again, I wouldn't have channeled as much. Would have done more of a 50/50 with the channel and front Z. When I first got it done, I was stubborn about putting the hood on but my mind changed fast the first time I set it on. I think to make the 34 or older cab look right, you need the matching grill shell, or one that has a curve close to the curve of the cowl. In my opinion the grill shell ruins it for many of these trucks....
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