1932 Pickup Build

I just have to make sure that I have a good seal for va***e so I am leary of having bolts throug the underside of the plate.[/QUOTE]
you could weld in "blind" tapped "plugs" so you don't have a hole right through?

 

So the LA Roadster Swap meet was good to me! I found these vintage Firestone dirt track tires. Got them mounted yesterday. I love how they look on the pickup, (Kind of a cross between the dirt track and the hurst pie crust).



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sweet looking truck. tires look killer on it.

 

wow those tires are awesome!!!

 

I've wanted to use 34' handles on the pickup, so I picked up some and used bear claw latches specially designed to use handles. Works pretty slick considering that my latches were very rusted and didn't work well at all. Plus with having to do door skins with the bead I didn't have the stock stamping for the handles. This way It will look stock to most, unless you know what to look for.



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Wow, another nice build out of your shop. I must search in case i have missed any others.

 

For all those coming to Bonneville Speed Week, I'm having a shop tour Thursday and Friday the 6th and 7th from 10:00 am to 9:00 pm. Id love to see you guys there.

Here's a link to the shop tour for more info:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=381997

 

So I got the opportunity to do some trade for another cab. Ive decided to sell this cab and use the new one on my pickup. The reason for this, is the new cab has super nice metal. Which will let me do metal work like on all the other projects in the shop. I will now be able to really fine tune the sheet metal and show it in bare metal before I paint it.

I don't have the cab at the shop yet, but I thought Id get a picture of the frame by its self. Has a different look than most frames for a 32'



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Just a quick question..not to doubt your building skills, but I have a question...With the tubing on it side like you have for the frame rail wouldn't it twist rather easy laying on its side rather than straight up?

 

I thought of that. So when I started building it I used 1/4" thick tubing to make it as stiff as possible. It also has quite a lot of bracing across, so its almost like a solid section. I plan on adding some more bracing to the transition from the cab up to the rear. As well as a bolt in brace that goes from the bottom of the c-notch arc to the other side under the axle to stiffen the arch.




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You know, if you really wanted to show off your metal working skills, you'd repair the old cab and proudly display the "before and after" photos.

 

That frame is interesting, Keep the pics coming please.

 

I would if the cab only had just the rust through parts. But the hard thing is that the entire cab has texture and some pitting. So if I replace all the rust through then it still wont sand up smooth like my Vicky.

 

can see where Chad was going with his question, just my humble opinion but I think it needs some trianglization (is that write). Instead of more bracing change the brace that is parallel to the engine to create some triangle-ing with the tyranny mount, dig your work...

 

I think I see what your saying, but i'm not quite sure. Could you explain more? Are we talking about when the car hits a bump what the frame will do? Or when the engine twists what it will do?

 

cool lookin ride doode. lets see pics of the new cab!

 

Think of the x member that gives the ch***is racking strength or keep it in square...
You said you was going to do this at the rear but I do not see any under the cab area which will tie in the front end...

 

The way I look at this frame is basically in three sections:

There is the front rails that come out of the cowl forward that holds the engine.

The middle section that the cab sits on.

And the rear section that holds the rear end and the bed sits on.

The points where these sections connect to me are the weakest areas of the frame and thus the areas that need the most attention. The three sections by themselves are strong.

The connection between the front section and the middle I used a sleeve inside the joint as well as the 45 degree brace connecting it to the middle. I plan on also making a half roll cage hoop that will be in the front of the cowl of the pickup under the dash. This hoop will bolt to the frame at both the area that kicks up and the flat area. This should also add another connection point where the two frame sections connect.

Then with the cab and bed sections I will add another cross brace where it kicks up, and then one to connect the bottoms of the arc. I am also going to do another roll cage hoop here in the back that bolts to the frame where I'm using 4 point harness's.

Other than that I don't see really anything else I can do to strengthen the frame any more. If anyone has any suggestions I would really appreciate your comments.

 

this is a great shop truck build.

 

I got the new cab back from the sandblasters. This cab is in pretty nice shape. The roof is nice and straight. The cowl is good with just some rust in the bottom. And the rear of the car is the only area that needs a lot of attention.

Im probably going to chop it the same 3". But I want to keep the back window bigger so I will chop two inches below the window and an inch through the window. (Kind of keep with the theme of the shop, less out of the rear window)





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I got the frame up on the frame jig the other day. I plan on changing a few things to the ch***is now that I have a new cab.



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Where the new cab has most of the floor, I decided to change the rear of the frame so that I didnt have to cut the floor like in my other cab.

First I cut free the rear section of the frame, and then I got the cab sitting where it wants to be.



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outstanding ! you do some really nice work , the truck is eye candy forsure

 

Ohhhhhhhhh that is hot rod **** for sure.

 

I want to get your guys opinion. With getting a new cab I have decided to do a different chop. Im thinking of going 5" with 2" under the rear window and 3" through the window.

Here are the photoshop pictures of what the chop would look like.



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Looks good, wack it!

 

Im wanting to make the metal work as easy on myself as I can. So today I braced the door opening and removed the roof. With the roof off I can work out the dents in the roof easier as well as clean up all the seams. Plus when I make my wood headliner it will be tons easier to have the roof off.



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Damn It!!! Anyone have a kleenex??? These were my good jeans too.

 

hello, what kind of rear rims are those? are they 5 on 5 1/2 bolt pattern? thanks

 

The rear rims are dodge artillery I got from a buddy. They are 5 on 4 1/2".