I'm building a 34 ford 5 window hot rod. Mine has a bad 59 L ? 1948 ? engine. The cylinder walls are rust pitted bad. I would like a mildly hopped up Flatty. I found another 1948 with a good block. The same guy has a 4" merc crank for sale also. Heres my delema, I like the looks of the 59 L engine I have but want the modern distributor. Is the distributor on the 8BA easyer to tune? Can I put a better style distributor on a 59 L or A engine. I've heard I could put a 8BA timing cover on a 59 L or A. Is the removable bellhousing an advantage when useing a S10 t5 trans ? Bottom line should I buy the 59A or look for a 8BA. Gene
pretty much all parts are interchangeable between the two from what I gather, If you're really fond of the old school look you can put 59a heads(mid water spout) on an 8ba, or if you want a better distributor on the 59a you can put the 8ba timing cover on it. However MSD I believe sells crab style distributors, all with modern stuff in them, so no real need (unless you already have one) to go to the 8ba style. As for the the removable bellhousing, they do have more options for the 8ba style, however if your going Tremec t-5 then the 59a is covered pretty well for that tranny. 8ba motors also cool slightly better as well.
Sounds like if I have a complete 59 L & I buy a good 59 block I can make it work. The 4" merc crank and maybe different newer distributor would make a nice engine. Thanks-----Gene
The stock distributor in good shape is about as good as you will ever need in my opinion. However you can keep the 48 block and go with the later distributor with a few minor changes. You will have to make a "keeper or clamp" for the distributor but that is pretty easy and I have a picture of one somewhere on my computer if you need it. A lot of guys prefer the early blocks with the integral bellhousing for a lot of reasons and you can search for that as well as go to fordbarn.com for more info and knowledge. My preference is the front distributor unless I am going to run a cool distributor like a mallory or conversion that I want people to see.
I like the later flattie because it doesn't have the integral bellhousing. I've heard of people who have mounted an engine stand to the bellhousing and have it crack while the engine was being moved. The engine is junk once that happens. You have to use an adapter that bolts to the side exhaust. I also like the later flattie because they're easier to work the distributor. I've never worked an earlier flattie but to me they look harder to work with. Just my opinion.
I just got ahold of my brothers friend who has the engine for sale. He said he has a 49 Merc 4" engine for $300. It's stuck but he has a few other later Ford engines if I need a different block. He only has one 4" crank thats in the stuck Merc engine. At any rate it looks like when he can get to he'll call me to come look at it. He said he'll pull the heads to look for cracks. He said if I take it in & the block is bad he'll give me another one. Thanks Gene
I wonder if the 34 5 window coupe with a newer style 1949 merc 8cm distributor will have clearance problems ? Any help here would be great. Gene
Just measured my '49 (Later block) Merc firewall to back side of radiator = 31-1/4". Because of the serpentine drive system for the blower, alternator, crank pulley and water pumps I could not install a stock fan. I went with a puller electric fan that is 2750 scfm and is 3-3/4" thick. Water pump pulleys actualy protrude about 3-1/2" in front of the dizzy towards the radiator. I would think both blocks would be the same length but the water pumps may protrude more on the later models than on the earlier models. Then again the front mounted dizzy on the earlies may protrude further than the water pumps. Here's a side shot:
I'll have to measure my 34 to see if it's 31 1/4" . I may have to go with an electric fan. I didn't want to go that route. Old school you know. I just scored a pair of 35 Ford 16" steel spoke wheels from my brother tonight. They were laying out behind his house for 15 years waiting for me. Anybody know how strong they are ? I hope they would hold up ok. They look cool to me. Gene
Pros and cons...late distributor setup rquires aftermarket distributor for any sensible use, Chevy reworked or MSD, early Mallory are good. Late Mallory is a project, but can be made useable. Late is easier to work on if you like working bent over...crab is easier once you know the drill! Pop off cap and rotor, remove two bolts and swing out the distributor, fixxit on the bench, return it fully timed and ready to go. R&R takes 30 seconds once you have tried it, and does not disturb timing. Late distributor forces all front parts forward considerably to clear, eliminating room for mechanical fan on many installations. Crab is cheap and has good useable curve as is. Dimensional info: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...highlight=flathead+dimensions+stuff&showall=1
To run the late distributor on the early engine you will also need either a late cam or a bolt on adapter for the distributor drive gear for thew early engine.
The Jalopy Journal
