Likelihood of breaking a rocker arm spring on a fuel pump?

My '50 Poncho is all original with the straight 8 and mechanical fuel pump. For the last few days I have been killing batteries trying to get it started (normally starts fine). I noticed the carb is dry and there is nothing in line between the tank and pump (all hardline) so it's pretty much gotta be a pump (unless I have a leak in the line keeping it from ****ing up fuel).

***uming the mechanical fuel pump is at fault, is it most likely the rocker arm spring is broken or faulty in some way? Would there be a tell tale sign such as gas leak on the top of the pump (the air side - it is dual stage) or anything like that? I haven't faced this problem before. Thanks!

 

Remove the pump and take a look. It could be the pump valves-diaphram or yes its possible for the arm to break on the older cars. You can put it in a bench vise and if the arm is ok work the arm while holding your finger over the tank side port-It should have a suction. If not tear it down and have a look/

 

I'm overloaded on info about switching to an electric fuel pump (this car has to be moved in 2 days or else). I need to strap an electric fuel pump exactly where the mechanical one is right now on the side of the engine and go. Do I HAVE to run a return fuel line with certain pumps? What is a good PSI for this car? What's the easiest way to get a pump in and running so I can move the car and go back later to fix the details? I planned on removing the lines off the mechanical pump, sticking them on the electrical pump that is sitting piggy back against the mechanical pump so I can use the lines, and wiring the pump into the switch. I don't have a plate to remove the mechanical pump right now so I was just going to byp*** it. That return line thing is bothering me.

 

If all you have to do is load it on a trailer, fill the carb bowl with gas thru the vent tube and fire it up, it won't run too long on it but maybe long enough to move it. Lippy

 

If I can just fix it I'd like to.

 

You don't need a return line. You generally only run a return line with fuel injection and high fuel pressure. ***uming you have stock electric in the car, you need a 6 volt in-line fuel pump that you can plumb in with some regular rubber fuel line, barbs and hose clamps. You'll also need a fuel pressure regulator, which can be had inexpensively in the Spectre section of Pep Boys if you're in a pinch. You only need like 2.5 psi on those carbs. It's really not much. That could be a permanent fix or you can fix the mechanical fuel pump

 

Thank you. It's a 12 volt alternator system. I'll try to find a low pressure pump.

 

just about any parts house has the round inline pump and it will work just fine on your car-Mounting by your pump is ok also but if you want permant operation it needs to be closer to the tank

 

Here's one from Summit - under $50 - 4 psi - 12v - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PFS-10701/

 

Thanks Ray, Short, and everyone I'm going to get by an auto store tomorrow and pick up a regulator and pump. How are these regulators adjusted? By gauge or by a visual setting on the unit?

 

Well for now I get to stay original with 60 yr old NOS for the whopping price of $37 shipped. I couldn't stand not to do it the right way.




The instructions however are proving difficult to read......LOL! They just crumbled to pieces.