I shot the roof of my car and got some light spots (poor coverage). I am going to re shoot it but I need to get rid of some orange peel first. I started to wet sand it with 600. It seems to be taking FOREVER!!! I know I seem a little impatient and if this is the only route then so be it. It there any way to speed up the process a little. Can I knock it down with 400 dry and then go go ever it with 600 wet? Any ideas? Thanks, Todd
600 to slow, try 1200 grit. The guy that I was in the body shop with in the '80s and '90s insisted that we knock it down with 600 then go to 1200. But his paint was remarkable.
Hey If you are going to shoot solid color then sand with 400 wet, then shoot. If metalic then 600 wet and shoot color then clear. Hope it helps
With the difficulty you describe, I'm thinking it's enamel. If so, it's going to be tough to level even with 400. You're just going to have to tough it out. Beer and friends is a good strategy.
Do you have any more info to give us?I would need to know if you are using enamel or urethane,and solid or metallic before I give an answer.
If you think 600 is slow, wait till you get to the 1500 and higher. Sounds like you are pressing on-good luck and keep at it.
I know its not "TRADITIONAL" but 3M has a dry sand system for use on DA's. I went to this system a few years ago and have saved 100's of hours sanding and got my fingerprints back. check it out. If enough clear you can lightly knock it down w/320 wet then the 400 then 600.
Sorry for not bieng more specific. I'm shooting Sherwin Williams enamel that has been flattened to the point it is a satin finish, solid color, black. I'm just looking to knock down the orange peel before I reshoot it. Thanks again, Todd
Hey Todd, You should have no problem using 320 or 360 Wet & Dry paper on this "If " it has fully flashed and hardned! Try a test area to see how it sands, if it sands poorly and loads up the paper with soft paint vs. sanding dust you should wait some more before refinishing. Given that you're going with a ''flattned finish'' I wouldn't sweat sand scratch swelling and would not use 400-600, unless you've nothing to do with your time but push wet paper! Finish that has had flattner added to it will need all the adheasion it can get to stick to what you've already shot upon the job. The flattner absorbs the binder in the paint, that's the stuff that holds the pigment, the colour onto the surface, and the extra mechanical bond provided by the 320-360 ''tooth'' won't hurt. Swankey Devils C.C. "Spending A Nation Into Generational Debt Is Not An Act Of Compassion!"
I'd agree with the 320 to 400. Did the enamel have hardener in it? If it didn't, you need to let the sanded finish cure for a couple days in the heat and then probably use a recoat sealer to avoid it wrinkling. If you used a hardener, you should also let it cure after sanding for a couple days or so in the warm weather, but shouldn't need the recoat sealer. Letting the sanded fresh finish breath for a couple days gets all the reducer out and it won't die back.
My vote is 400 and then 600. Or just 400 with at least 5 or 6 coats hope you used hardener .If not listen to the guy's post above me. It's a shame you missed the recoat window.
Pimpin Paint, I just tried a piece of 400 dry and it loaded up a little. It is wicked humid here and I think it may need a day or two more to set up. Tomorrow I will pick up some 380 or 400 wet and give it a try. Even though this car is going to be a "driver" and it is the first think I ever painted I still want to do the best job I can. Thanks for the advice! Todd
single stage paints fill easy 400 wet scratches.. 5 or 6 coats is pointless. 2 coats with satin and dun. pimpin is right, flat finishes take a little bit more tooth. i would wet with 320/400 or buzz with 320 da and finish up with a red scotchbrite for the extra tooth. when u sand flat paint, for the most part, it doesnt look like its getting sanded that well. kind of like sanding chrome.
I picked up some 400 wet today. WOW!! what a difference. Thanks guys. I don't know what I would do without this place. Todd
One thing that was mentioned, and it sometimes gets overlooked, is what is BEHIND that wet or dry paper. A "hardblock" (one of those hard rubber sanding blocks) will cut down orangepeel much faster than no block, (as in barehanded). I make it a practice to NEVER sand ANYTHING without a proper sanding block backing the sandpaper. As mentioned before, it can cause waves, carved into the substrate with your fingers. Think about it...if there's too much give to the backing material, the sandpaper won't do it's job, and if you use your hands, where your fingers press into the paper will show up as grooves. If there's a flat, hard backer to the paper, it will cut like crazy. That's why there's so many different types of sanding blocks on the market-hard blocks, soft blocks, and in between-'cuz they work, and when used properly, they can save you lots of labor! Good luck with your project!!
if u use large blocks then yes. if u use small sanding blocks, it will still make it have ripples and wavyness.
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