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62 pick up brakes

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by rockogrease, Aug 11, 2009.

  1. rockogrease
    Joined: Aug 8, 2009
    Posts: 57

    rockogrease
    Member
    from So. Cal

    whats the cheapest way to upgrade a 62' chevy c15 drum brakes to disk?

    im talking bolt on im not trying to down the truck for long, is there a way to keep it under $500?
     
  2. Replace everything with a 73-87 front end, crossmember and all. There will be some minor fab work to do.
     
  3. rockogrease
    Joined: Aug 8, 2009
    Posts: 57

    rockogrease
    Member
    from So. Cal

    well i was hoping there was something that bolted up, my buddy had a 34 ford front end, and i cant remeber what year, but mustang disks bolted right on. something like that or no?
     
  4. nope, and I doubt your friends Mustang brakes bolted right on without an adapter of some sort ;)
     
  5. shortbed65
    Joined: Feb 20, 2009
    Posts: 204

    shortbed65
    Member
    from ne Ill

    73-87 C-10 Steering Knuckles,
    Calipers,Rotors,
    Wheel Bearings/ Seals
    Upper+Lower Ball joints
    Outer Tie Rods
    5 or 6 lug rotors are available
     
  6. jonzcustomshop
    Joined: Jun 25, 2007
    Posts: 1,928

    jonzcustomshop
    Member

    this is pretty much a bolt in.. lineup the front frame holes and the front crossmember holes, you will have to drill the rest.
    the only other thing is you need a spacer/bracket for the steering box.
    captianfab over on http://67-72chevytrucks.com sells em on the 60-66 parts forum.
     
  7. Yep, that's what I did with my 64.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. No need to replace the whole cross-member, just the control arms-out.
    This is from the 60-66 site
    http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=263983&highlight=disc
    First you do not have to change the whole crossmember!!!!!
    Leave the thing where it is!!!!

    1.)remove the old brake lines.

    2.)remove the upper and lower A-arms with the spindles attached.

    3.)Get a set of arms with disk spindles attached.(72 and up)

    4.)Install the newer upper and lower A-arms.

    5.)install updated brake lines and hardware.


    This will work for 1/2 ton 3/4 ton ect. <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
     
  9. jonzcustomshop
    Joined: Jun 25, 2007
    Posts: 1,928

    jonzcustomshop
    Member

    ^ is true for 63-66, but I think 60-62 the member needs to be changed, because there are no spring pockets-they were torsion bar.
    63 to 6 is almost a direct bolt in, I think you have to drill 2 holes, but 60-62 only 2 holes line up, and you have to drill quite a few more...
     
  10. This is what I recall, also because of the torsion bar deal I was under the impression that the spindles were different and not interchangeable.
     
  11. I forgot about the 60-62 being torsion bar.:eek:
     
  12. You'll have to get the bracket for the idler arm and drill the frame. When you space the steering box away from the frame, you'll have to pull the steering wheel , file the master spline to allow for turning the wheel approx 1/8 turn.
    If you're putting power steering on it at the same time, you'll be modifying or replacing the steering column because the column is one piece from the rubber coupler at the box to the steering wheel.
    I did this conversion 16 years ago on my 65. Add the sway bar while you're at it, makes a difference.
     
  13. Chevytruckin98
    Joined: Nov 3, 2008
    Posts: 56

    Chevytruckin98
    Member
    from Tx

    good info to know
     
  14. jonzcustomshop
    Joined: Jun 25, 2007
    Posts: 1,928

    jonzcustomshop
    Member

    63-66 have a 1 piece column, 60-62 have a 2 piece.
     
  15. rockogrease
    Joined: Aug 8, 2009
    Posts: 57

    rockogrease
    Member
    from So. Cal

    so because i have the torsion bar front end, i would have to pretty much replace the whole front end with a 72 ish front end? theres no way to just change the spindles?
     
  16. Or you could buy a brake kit, they aren't all that expensive.

    www.classicperform.com has them. Site seems to be down right now though.
     
  17. The spindles on that application are unique to 60-62 Chevy trucks, as well as the ball joints which are expensive to replace.
    Changing over to the coil spring front end could save you money in the long run by having more common parts. 73-87 truck front end parts are almost all the same. There are variables in rotors, calipers, and idler arms.
    If you put power steering on, also reinforce the frame on the inside because the steering box will crack up the frame because of how much torque it produces. Also gusset the front crossmember under the core support because the steering box will loosen the rivets and cause the frame horns to move left-right when steering.
    300,000 miles of experience about this stuff.
     
  18. chevymike
    Joined: Jun 16, 2006
    Posts: 259

    chevymike
    Member

    Just keep in mind it will change you over to passenger car lug pattern (5 on 4.75) so you will have to change the front wheels and the lug pattern won't match the rear unless you do something with it.

    As for swapping the front crossmember to a '73+, IIRC the 60-62 frame in the front area is narrower so you most likely will also need to make up spacers for the frame to fit correctly.

    If you want a true bolt on, that keeps the wheels the same, I would recommend Early Classic Enterprise as the vendor of choice. May not be the cheapest but they are the top rung in the 60-72 Chevy/GMC truck world.
     
  19. rockogrease
    Joined: Aug 8, 2009
    Posts: 57

    rockogrease
    Member
    from So. Cal

    its a bit of a rat rod truck, changing the whole front end isnt realy a option because its my daily driver, my harley is down for now while i build the new frame. but that chevelle and camaro bolt on seams cool, that stuff is easy enough to find, rims and all right?
     

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