I just picked up a 1930 model a murray body, and I've got to build a frame, so I'm learning to weld. I started by patching some holes in my plow truck, an 88 Suzuki Samurai. I'm using a Clarke weld 90 (110v) mig for the bodywork. Here's a picture of the first hole (before): After prep : After welding : After grinding : and with primer: Here's the next hole, a patch panel. Shows the beads better : I also picked up a Lincoln Inteliarc 300 (220 / 440v) TIG, that I have not figured out how to set it up. I want to use that for structural stuff. Any tips about that?
ya... thats lookin mighty flux core to me... and to be real honest, it does not look like you're getting much penetration other than surface... real poreous welds and they look like they're sitting on top of the steel
I have it set up for using gas, and I've got about 40psi on the gauge. I don't think I have the flux core installed but I'll check it tonight. The weld lines I was using as filler to make the area flat, so they are on top of the steel filler plate. For more penetration, do I adjust the setting for more current or more wire? I'm looking for a course in TIG'n at my local community college.
it comes with practice thats for sure, ive been welding since i was 10 and 5years later i still am learning
I've been welding since 1973....I'm not bragging , it's just I'm to dumb and old to learn another trade. You'll get there just keep trying, biggest thing to teach is most people try and weld to cold. Get that heat up and wire speed higher. And for patching holes in thin stuff use a piece of copper as a backer, the weld won't stick to it and it helps draw the heat from the weld.
Here's a few good links that helped me get started. Not that I'm any better but I typically know what I'm doing wrong. http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld---MIG-Welding/ http://www.migweld.com/Mig-Welding-a/125.htm
As others have said ,practice,practice,practice.Dont do any structural repairs until you know exactly what you're doing,for the safety of yourself and those around you. The college course is a great idea .Good luck.
More wire = cooler more electricity (amps) = hotter Would be good to see some pics of the back sides of your welds to see penetration. You'll want to do the frame with the stick or tig machine for sure. Takes a little more skill to run them propperly (tig especially) but you will get much better/stronger results
depends on who's doing the welding... i've seen plenty strong and hard driven chassis built with a MIG... hell, i drive one every chance i get
Way too much pressure. Around 28psi is the max, sometimes lower for sheetmetal(as low as 15-20). What are you using? C25? Check your polarity as well. Flux welding has the polarity reversed compared to using gas. That could be part of your problem.
Best thing I ever did was to find a friend that knew what he was doing to watch. I found it much easier to learn by example. in the case of what your doing now I would suggest you get in a little closer to your work, and increase the amperage a bit. When welding sheet metal I find it lots easier to "pulse" my welds, rather than do a continuous weld. That is, trigger, trigger, trigger, rather than hold the button down. Do this arround the hole and work your way in. That little bit of "pulse" gives the metal a bit of time to cool before the next weld hits. A copper backing is a great idea too. In short, just keep practicing and stay away from structural stuff for now, and will become second nature.
This would be my first inclination, most MIG welders come pre-set for flux core wire so the polarity needs to be reversed. One other quick check is your wire size and your tip, most MIG come with 0.035 tips pre-loaded for the Flux Core wire.
I'm definitely no expert but heres my two cents. When welding holes up either put a thick piece of metal (copper was said earlier) as a backing. When welding any thinner metal don't try and weld a long line you will heat the metal up and either burn through it or distort it really bad. When welding thicker metal, don't get in a hurry. Slow down and make sure you get a good burn and penetrate the pieces you are welding together. Good luck
I checked my gas valve and it does look like nothing is happening. I've changed it to 15 PSI so the needle would jump a bit when the gas goes, and it does not move, nor do I hear a hissing noise like with my torches. I'm gonna take it apart tomorrow to find the issue. I'm using a co2 / argon mix. The grounding cord is set to negative and the tip is set to positive. The manual had instructions on how to switch it from non-gas to gas. I did switch the tip to a smaller one when I converted it.
The Jalopy Journal
