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August banger meet 2009

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Weeks46, Aug 1, 2009.

  1. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,372

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

  2. andyg
    Joined: Aug 10, 2007
    Posts: 560

    andyg
    Member

    thanks crazydaddyo
     
  3. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,241

    RussTee
    Member


    not so in New Zealand here they are often considered junk most pull out the clutch and put in a later one however if you ever look at early track roadsters you will find they were the clutch of choice [more positive in out] unrestored blocks are sold here at around $60 nz
     
  4. A-Wall
    Joined: Aug 6, 2008
    Posts: 488

    A-Wall
    Member

    bad day with my banger....

    so it's not been running right since i bought it. thought it was carburetion. so today i decided to take the carb apart. check everything use parts from another carb and make one good one. i actually did end up finding a problem with my carb. all excited i put it back on and it still sounds like its running on 3 cyls. did a compression test, 55-60psi on 1,2,3. 0 on 4. i know it wasn't a ring because i had the head off to get resurfaced because i had tons of water getting into the cylinders and i had put oil on the tops of the pistons and the oil stayed there for days. pull off the valve cover, exhaust valve on 4 is stuck open... so i pull the head off and tap it down, put the truck in gear and push it forward and it brings it up. i do this a couple times and it fell really free until i decide to spin the valve and it locks up again....! the valve is bent...

    the only way i think this could have happened, the owner before me, decides to pull the distributor out, it gets stuck and he cracks the housing. he then decides to pull the head to pound the distributor housing out.

    then i buy the ch***is, hasn't run yet since he did the work to it, i get it running and i have water leaking into the cylinders. so i figured thats why it was running so rough. i pull the head, he never cleaned any of the gasket surfaces and just threw an new gasket in... so i get the head resurfaced, get the motor running again, no water leaks but still runs like ****, so then i figure it's the carb, NOPE.

    so heres what i think happened now. he had a hell of a time getting the head off, pried it off and stuck his prying tool on top of the valve and bent it. how else could it have bent? this motor is perfect other then what he touched.

    what a ****ty day...
     
  5. They are junk here also to hotrodders but not to restorers of early 28s they are made outta gold lol. You would be hard pressed to find a banger for 60$ here in the states unless you are in with people in the model a crowd. I bought a Diamond A engine today for around your junk price from a fellow banger friend. Number says 1939 and the head says later with a 0 as the year date. He is getting outta the hobby slowly and wants his stuff to get used by a younger banger fella. He has no idea of the internals of the engine it has not been apart in years. I can't wait to tear into it to see what lies inside lol. If its junk then I will get my money back in s**** or yard art lol.

    Put a v-8 clutch on the model a flywheel and then you have a nice easy in-out pedal response from my little experience.-Weeks

     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2009
  6. VanHorton
    Joined: Apr 7, 2007
    Posts: 585

    VanHorton
    Member

    v8s have got the power... but bangers know how to party! haha anyway, here is what im working on. finally got the engine and ****** in and a 23t body mocked up... shooting to get it road worthy by the end of the month to terrorize Rutgers with... plans are to chop with wind shield some 8 inches and lean it way back, put it on some 16 inch wires, dial in the mech. brakes, gas tank in the back and gooooo! ...haha im proud to have a banger for sure! eventually itll have a pickup bed and a speed head and a cool intake, maybe a mag, splash aprons, who knows?!

    [​IMG]
     
  7. T.W.Dustin
    Joined: Nov 18, 2008
    Posts: 883

    T.W.Dustin
    Member

    Hey that looks like a great starting point - Looking forward to more pics as you make progress.

    Tom
     
  8. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,542

    Piewagn
    Member

    Hey.....that's Mels place!! Picked up my Banger from him. Only been there once, but I'm pretty sure I recognize it..........Right??
     
  9. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 8,979

    noboD
    Member

    What's the ch***is in the backround with the wires?
     
  10. T.W.Dustin
    Joined: Nov 18, 2008
    Posts: 883

    T.W.Dustin
    Member

    I got my intake/carb issues resolved. I ended up doing about 20 mins worth of work on my scalded dog intake to allow the washers to seat properly between the intake and Exhaust. This allowed both manifolds to seat properly to the intake and exhaust ports. The new Stromberg from UncleMax really solved my idle issues. I put .043 jets in before bolting it on. Purrs like a kitten and no exhaust leaks after the minor adjustments to the intake.

    Life is good.

    I still want to redo my fuel lines now that I know everything is working well. In a week or so I will put the FSI dizzy in.

    I also put a set of used 16X650 Cokers (older models - Commanders) on my 16" wires also (wasn't planning on doing this right away but scored a set of 4 for $100 - they will work for a few months till I buy new tires). Still need to get rings and caps for them - I'll hold off on pics till thery are all cleaned up.

    Edit: I am having trouble finding a good vendor for 16" trim rings for my 16" 35-36 Ford wire wheels - any suggestions? I have the hubcaps coming already.

    Thanks, Tom

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2009
  11. andyg
    Joined: Aug 10, 2007
    Posts: 560

    andyg
    Member

    babbit shimming question. need to here from the pros with experience.[/FONT][/COLOR]
    <o:p></o:p>
    as i am doing the "take a shim out until it's locked up and then put one back", i am to the point now that I have done the rods and have done the rear main...and it's getting quite a bit of resistance. it takes two hands on the flywheel to get it to turn. it's in the car...****** in neutral, and pistons and rings in place...belt off the gen and water pump.
    <o:p></o:p>
    #2 rod was one that added quite a bit of resistance. It spun free. took one out (.002)...still free. took out 2 shims...quit a bit more resistance but not really hard and not locked...took out 3 shims...locked up the crank...put 1 back in so it's back to quite a bit more resistance than free.
    <o:p></o:p>
    so, what is too much resistance? what happens if I put it back together too tight? I feel like the tightness is ac***ulating on me. it's really not "easy" to spin now.<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    HELP!<o:p></o:p>
     
  12. hotrodjeep
    Joined: Feb 3, 2009
    Posts: 867

    hotrodjeep
    Member

    I made the trip yesterday, Started out good but, over heated and had to be
    towed by my lovely, saintly, awesome, understanding, lovely, saint of a wife.
    Here's some pics from the adventure:

    Jeff
     

    Attached Files:

  13. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,542

    Piewagn
    Member

    Man, that looks like fire, not just a simple overheating!! Any damage?? I see I'm not the only one who likes the yellow!!
     
  14. hotrodjeep
    Joined: Feb 3, 2009
    Posts: 867

    hotrodjeep
    Member

    No damage That I've seen, Yet. I started it this morning and she sounded normal.
    Its just steam, I think I have a cooling problem??
    And I foul plugs pretty quick, I suppose now that the old girl is home
    some routine mantanance is in order.
    The P.O. just drove around town and in parades, so it's ok for trips under 10
    miles or so. This was a good 70 miles at 40-45 mph. still 20 miles from home. It was a three hour trip 1-1/2 hours driving, 45 mins seting up the tow bar and taking pictures:), and 45 mins being towed.

    Jeff
     
  15. Chopped50Ford
    Joined: Feb 16, 2003
    Posts: 5,854

    Chopped50Ford
    Alliance Vendor

    Great looking setup!

    As for the trim rings...did you try MAC's?
     
  16. Hell yeah... it was an all out banger weekend over here. The kid got a fresh banger in his A frame. We transfered a Phaeton to another ch***is, leaned the posts, bolted it down. I finally jumped on my 32 and welded all the floors, and chopped the torque tube, welded it up. Now its going on the ch***is...

    When we were all done playing with Model A's... we went tubing with Model A tubes, wahoo! Killer weekend!

    Oh yeah, and we roasted a pork ****, yum.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,542

    Piewagn
    Member

    What.........no coffee????????
     
  18. VanHorton
    Joined: Apr 7, 2007
    Posts: 585

    VanHorton
    Member

    haha coffee?! never heard of it... luckily ive got youth on my side... i didnt even realize that we only have 4 banger projects in motion now. thrashing that phaeton together on thursday was fuuuuun. Im on the lookout for a speed head and a cool intake...​
     
  19. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,542

    Piewagn
    Member

    Ha.....youth has nothin' to do with it....I'm talkin' about Mel's awsome coffee!!!! Ya gotta have some just for the sake af havin' some!!!
     
  20. The fella's I run with build them tight enough that you need 12V (or a pull) to turn them over. A fair amount of plastigauge will help you get there faster too. The oldtimers referred to it as "braising the bearings." We have only had trouble with the babbits in one motor (of between 10 and 15) and that was due to major abuse to the entire engine (it got ran HARD, I mean REAL HARD at some excessive rpm's.) Legend has it that some A's would come off Ford's line so tight they wouldn't turn over, and rather than taking them down, the boys would drag them off the line with a truck and around a track till they freed up. It may be a stupid idea, but it's always worked for us. Luke
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2009
  21. ELD
    Joined: Apr 11, 2008
    Posts: 653

    ELD
    Member


    Well worth the wait.....puts ***** in your step.
     
  22. Actually Ford had a system where they turned the engine with an electric motor to burnish and seat the babbit before the motor was installed.
     
  23. That story soumds a lot more plausable. Like I said "legend has it..." Thanks Bill. Luke
     
  24. Well, heres another story for you. I have an original Riley 2 port that I have been running in my "Lakes Modified". The car weighs 1500 lbs. When I set it up for the hill climb I put the change gears that give a 5.30 ratio. This allows the car to start in 2 nd, gear and it does break loose. I think the best ET at the hill climb was 8.55 With Jay driving the car. Earlier last year the car ran 84 with an ET of 16.26 with shane Hill driving at the Antique Nationals. This with 4.11's, The car has been run like this for 4 or 5 years. (I don't count the years so well anymore) In the meantime I have rebuilt the repop winfield flat head engine that was originally in the car. I put that engine in my RPU to check it out but now, with another bendix gear getting lunched at the "Nats" and the necessity to pull it down to find the last piece I decided this would be a good time to swap the engine's. I had a 9 lb. V8 Al. flywheel (I had never weighed the flywheel before and the guy at the swap meet told me it was 12.5 lbs) ( I also just read where this wouldn't work) with a 10" clutch on the 2 port so i decide to put a "stock" flat head V8 32 lb. flywheel on for the street. I couldn't indicate it to the flywheel housing, just kept getting weird readings. So I got a 2nd pair of eyes and brain to check it out and we found .026 end play. The thrust is controlled by a 1/2 bronze washer that covered 180 degrees and the "fin" on the crank is blue from heat. This is fine for the street or occasional smoking of the tires but it cannot stand a steady diet of this. I learned this limitation this morning when I called Taylor Engine and spoke to Shane Hill. Now they are putting a full 360 degree thrust washer with 1/2 on the cap and 1/2 on the block. So I guess I'll modify the cap and go for it! End if story!!
     
  25. DurerHaus
    Joined: Dec 12, 2008
    Posts: 26

    DurerHaus
    Member

    Hey fellas, I have the chance to buy a winfield downdraft intake BUT I dont think I will be coming across a winfield carb for a while. Do you guys know if anyone is making or selling a 4 bolt winfield to 3 bolt carb adapter?
     
  26. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,604

    BCCHOPIT
    Member

    If you cant find one I can make you one. if I can help just pm me and Ill give you my #
    Bill

     
  27. jerseyboy
    Joined: Jul 17, 2006
    Posts: 634

    jerseyboy
    Member

    Hey Bill,

    Did you get my PM about the rear rims?
     
  28. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,604

    BCCHOPIT
    Member

    hey Scott..
    did you get my pm that I need your #:D
    just call my cell
    later Bill

     
  29. Artiki
    Joined: Feb 17, 2004
    Posts: 2,014

    Artiki
    Member
    from Brum...

    Bill...I'll be interested to see some pics of the new thrust bearing. I have 'just' 180 degrees on mine and I've wondered for a while whether it was enough.
     
  30. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,241

    RussTee
    Member

    has anyone got a report on the progress of the restoration of Ed Winfields two up two down motor?
     

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