Hey guys, So my 2006 Acura TSX daily driver has basically been ******* me off since I got it. I'm starting to think I'm done buying new/newer cars. I've been thinking about building something that would be drivable in Wisconsin winters. Does anybody have a vintage winter ride set up to handle the snow? I have a lead on a Willy's wagon but I'm not sold completely sold on the body style. Whatver I build has to get 20+ mpg. So I'm thinking straight six, small v8, or turbocharged 4 banger with an overdrive. Dang, lunch is over already... time to get back to work. Lets see pictuers and details of your winter ride!! Thanks, Scott
hmmm 20+mpg and snow friendly?? sounds tough. the jeep is a cool idea, stuff a awd ford explorer frame under it maybe get close to 20mpg around town.....
I don't know if its such a good idea to subject the old rides to the salt of winter roads. For every day you drive in the snow, theres like 10 that you're driving on brine (sal****er). I'm from Michigan and never had a problem with 2wd rear wheel drive cars. Actually more fun in winter than FWD, I think.
Willys wagons are rust buckets. ( I have one that isnt too bad). They are also a little on the small side. My suggestion. Take a vacation to sunny Az. Buy a 96 - 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 with a 4.0L six for about 3500. Drive that in the winter and let it rust out instead of something vintage. It'll be better in every way than an old car in the winter....and if you drive it easy, it'll get close to 20mpg.
HERES SOME IDEAR'S FOR YA http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=229248&highlight=snowmobile
Locally there's a guy with what appears to be a 4 door model A sedan that's been shortened thru the back doors to make an extended cab that's about 8-10 inches deeper than a standard A cab. Home made box, real simple with wood planks, etc. The kind of thing that looks at home on a 30s truck. Wheelbase and rims lead me to believe it's on a fullsize blazer 4x4 frame. Probably 32" tires, doesn't look like any suspension lift is used. I lust after it. Deeply.
BTW, all driveline components will have to be half ton or lighter, and not antique. Otherwise there's virtually no way to achieve the mileage target due to driveline loss and overall rolling resistance
I really like IH Scouts, that's one of the vehicles on the list. The willys is a rust bucket, but most of them are. I was thinking about replacing the quarters and building new floor bracing actually more like a skeleton out of square tubing. I'd overbuild it a bit then make a fibergl*** floor and inner/outer wheel wells. I'm still not set on the body style and I think it would be hard to pull off decent gas mileage with it being a brick. Shifty, That truck sounds cool but I'm a pretty large guy and I'd need more shoulder room than a model A or 30's truck could offer. Does anybody know if they made a Diamond T that was a suburban type vehicle? I've always liked Diamond T's and they're cabs a a little larger but they still have a lot of style. I was even thinking about doing up a car with a new front wheel drive setup under the hood. I saw a studebaker truck with a 90's grand am engine/suspension all welded in. Seemed like it would be practical in the winter but couldn't understand why the guy did that for a summer cruiser... Faded. I saw that thread, there was some neat stuff in there. I think I could beat rust with epoxy primer, truck bedcoating, seam sealer, and injecting gear lube with a syringe between all the spot welded overlapping panels. I doubt whatever I would do would be "traditional" but I figured you guys are some of the most ingenuitive car guys I've ever seen and figured somebody on here would have a neat solution for a winter driver.
I putt around in an old Jeep Wrangler through the winter months. It's injected with a straight 6 and it only gets around 15 MPG (averaged for all types of driving I do). The real problem will be the salt. The guy I got my '39 from had driven it year round through 2007 and into 2008. That includes Minnesota winters. The salt was VERY unkind to the floors. That brings me to this suggestion...what about an old Jeep with a fibergl*** body tub. Throw a late-model Jeep drivetrain under her and she'll run well and never rust out. Jay
At the risk of going way O/T..... A 4 cylinder will do a little better mileage wise, but will **** on the freeway........Now if you were to find a 4 cyl. diesel from a late model Liberty and adapted that into something, you'd be easily able to pull 20 mpg and have plenty of power. The diesel should fit in the Willys or Scout easily. Jeep tubs can be found in aluminum too, from 1946 CJ2's - 1983 CJ7's
If money was no object, I'd suggest a fibergl*** '40 Ford pickup body on a 4x4 Ranger frame and run an EFI 5.0 and T5. Should be close to 20 mpg, and still look cool....and not rust.
I don't see rust being a huge issue, I've frankensteined a few winter beaters over the years and part of the plan is always huge amounts of undercoat or POR15. And a little bit of common sense looking for moisture traps and making drains and creating access holes to get inside uncoated box structures with a wand or brush Realistically, this is a vehicle you take out on the worst road-hockey days and may blast thru ditches when you're feeling crazy. And will be very difficult/expensive to insure for a high value. It shouldn't be too nice. good luck
So i've been doing a little more research. It looks like an 80's 4x4 toyota pickup frame is about as good as it gets for efficiency and parts availability. I guess they make adapters to put anything from a SBC to a VW TDI to a Mercedes Diesel in one of those frames. The Diesel options would probably get me my mileage goal and more. I'm not so sure about running a japeneese frame and german engine under cl***ic american sheet metal. I guess it wouldn't be too bad as long as I kept the hood closed. I really don't think rustproofing on somethign built from scratch would be too hard.
put a ***mins 12v 6BT with a stick shift into an older late 50's chevy truck or burb with some modern 4x4 axles under it,it'll get 20+ miles /gallon.
Four words: Stainless breaks when removed To the OP, even though toyota is a very durable and aftermarket supported ch***is, they're also very hard to find cheap for the same reason. And the frames have significant rust issues because they're a fully boxed structure without proper drainage and with multiple overlaps that trap moisture once initially compromised. Look real hard at the steering box mount, above the rear axle, and at the gas tank mounting crossmember. As well as the whole frame rail along the gas tank, that's a particularly nasty area. good luck
I was thinking a 4BT. Small and powerful. Pick up a jeep, swap in the 4bt, 4.11 gears with 33" tires and you'll get 25 mpg. It'll top out at 65 mph. Stretch the jeep ch***is to the length you want for the body that is used. Parts are cheap. The torque will blow the axles up if you are goofy about it but as a street, mild off road (axle limitations) vehicle, it would be hard to beat.
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