[FONT="](all the chop pics are here) I posted just a couple clips to save space. I attended Gene's cl*** in Oklahoma City. I will create a separate post for the metal working portion, but I organized my Merc Chop notes together here, for your viewing pleasure. These notes are almost verbatim, I did condense some. Photobucket re-arranged them, so bear with me as I re-sort the many hi res shots. Measure window height first<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]13" start height measured at crown of door window<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]Cardboard on beltline - establish the angle of the A pillar<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]Find where the A pillar is straight. It is tapered so find the area closest to even spaced width. Measure and mark the center point, and various other distances for future reference.<o> </o>[/FONT][FONT="]<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]5.25" beltline to straight spot. mark on cardboard template[/FONT] [FONT="]<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]decided to chop the Merc 4"/ 5". Measure 4" straight up, mark where that hits the A pillar (on template). Using a little trigonometry, determined the A pillar will get 5 1/8" cut out for a 4" vertical chop.<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]Before cutting, grind off all paint and rust in the area that will get cut. This prevents rounding and thinning the posts in the cut area.<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]Using a 50 Merc rear window instead of the squared lower corner from a 51.<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]Using cardstock (manila folder) cut out a 4" strip for vertical and 5.125" for the A pillar. Make the top cut first, don't gut all the way through the A pillar until the rest is cut. this keeps it stable.<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]Remove stainless from window, grind off 1/2 of the lip.<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]1st cut - removing the drip rail. Grind down to flush. ALL pieces cut off go inside the car so you don't trip or lose any pieces.<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]Cut inside the lines leave room for fine tuning with 8" grinder. [/FONT] [FONT="]Cut the C Pillar Sail panel in a wedge.<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]Mercs have a bulge in the roof line behind B Pillar that becomes evident when chopped. Must be flattened out to improve flow. This is accomplished with many pie cuts. <o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]In the rear window, the package tray must be cut loose. If doing a 50 Merc or Chevy, Leave a 8" strip under the window uncut to lean forward at that joint.<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]When putting the top back on, use duck bill vise grips to ensure window area is flat.<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]Account for A pillar tumble. (the inclination and difference after cut). Using the previous marks, make sure windshield is square. make relief cuts in curves to re-join A pillar. <o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]M***age A pillar measuring from center get posts lined up. Then adjust for height. Looking for 1/16" tolerance.<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]Once tacked and measured within 1/16" weld solid. Then move to back.<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]Measure and tack B pillar into place. Slanting the B pillar. Make several relief cuts to get the angle. Removed 2" vertical for the final slanted b pillar size. then use paint sticks as a spacer, mock up door window frame to match.<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]Time to mock up back window. Ribbon cutting and hammer welding is **** Dean style. Get window square and level, then witness marks with Sharpie. in the overlapping areas, use long reach vise grip to hold in place, then drill holes for Clecos. when ready to finish weld, cut out a section of the Cleco area and gas weld, then hammer the snot out of it.<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]relief cuts are made to the roof that improves the flow, removing the crown. then 18 gauge cold rolled is used to make filler pieces. Pizza box template. given just a little curve on the english wheel. Trim weld, trim weld, hammer weld to finish. Fill in pin holes. hammer weld. Heat shrink/ stretch as needed. when going back, always start in the old weld.<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]Leading in back window.<o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]Clean Clean Clean. Color up the surface with a new 80 grit disc so it sticks. use a die grinder or drill bit ground off square for fine areas. <o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]Tinning the metal. Tinning compound is applied then soda wash to balance pH. Must be tinned and washed or paint will bubble. Cool down time in between is crucial. <o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]Lay down lead. 4 sticks were used to lead a 12" area. Heat paddle heat paddle keep the whole area hot. <o></o>[/FONT] [FONT="]Removing old lead. Heat it up cherry red and wire brush off. may take 3 or 4 times.<o></o>[/FONT]
I'm lazy tonight, here they are in order. 377 pics. You can see we jumped around from topic to topic, I will organize them better I promise. Link http://s59.photobucket.com/albums/g303/bhilburn/Gene Winfield/pics in order/?albumview=slideshow
Im not planning on chopping my top but I love how everyone shares information here and im sure alot of people here really appriciate your effort.
I think you have to pay for the version that allows that, sorry. <div style="width:480px;text-align:right;"><embed width="480" height="360" src="http://static.photobucket.com/flash/rss_slideshow.swf?rssFeed=http%3A%2F%2Ffeed59.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fg303%2Fbhilburn%2FGene%2520Winfield%2Fpics%2520in%2520order%2Ffeed.rss" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" /></div>