Header problem and looking for answers

I have a 1950 F1 with a SBC 406, 882 straight plug heads and TH350.

I bought a pair of ceramic coated Sanderson headers model CC12 for a SBC. Sanderson said they would fit this application and they do not fit.
They hit the steering shaft.

What headers do you guys run in this application? Exhaust guy with 38yrs experience says I need full length and not the shorty's, but short may be all that fits?

Thanks for the help and anyone need to buy some nice Sanderson headers?

JD

 

What about a pair of block huggers? Dont know much about F1's. Try calling Summit racing. They're open 7 days a week 9 to 9.

 

Please post pics .

 

More info. Straight axle ? type of steering ect.

 

A shorty might fit the easiest but it's gonna kill the power in that 406.
You might look at Doug's D327Y which is a Tri Y design for Fat Fendered Fords with a Chevy. Might clear your F1 as well.
The other one I would look at is a Patriot H8039-1

 

I tried Summit and Jegs and both were no help. Both said they only had information for stock applications and they were not even willing to discuss my application. Kind of like going to the parts store and the person is only as smart as the computer screen.

 

The suspension is a Fatman Mustang II. I will take pics and post. Thanks for the help.

 

If it's a Mustang II its not uncommon to have to put in a third U joint with a support bearing to get around exhaust. I did that in my F1 with a 347 stroker Ford and Mustang II

 

I might be wrong but when Sanderson says it will fit I am ***uming that they think it has original steering and not an updated system. I did not look it up on Sanderersons site I am only guessing.

 

Photos of my problem. Dont get me wrong Sanderson is a quality product and I like the headers, just wished they would fit. I tried to put the motor in with the headers bolted down and in the pics can can see where the paint rubbed off on the steering shaft. I then took them off, bolted down the motor and tried to put them in and the problem was worse because the driver side header would not even line up. The previous set of headers were block hugger shortys of unknown make that were steel and full of holes.

Thanks

 

add another ujoint to the steering shaft. Common problem.

And you kinda need to get all your parts together and do the engine mounts, steering shaft, exhaust all at the same time....usually it requires jiggling 4 different things around to get them all to fit

 

Yep, as I stated above add a Ujoint and support bearing and be on your merry way. Or it looks like a Patriot H8056-1 is about 1/2" closer to the block than the CC12 Sanderson

 

Hotroddon,
Can you educate me about ujoint and support bearings? Is that a difficult mod to make? Is there an article I can read or better yet pictures?

Thanks for the help. Sanderson did offer to swap the CC12s out for their C1 block huggers.

JD

 

Borgeson makes the best steering U-joints available...it's not that hard to figure what you need with some wood dowels cut to length and stuck on the u-joints...

Here's a pic of two of them snaking around the headers in my '55 Caddy...the third is out of the pic, near the box...

R-

 

Yikes! This is why the country needs some good ol' fashioned local speed shops. There's nothing like walking into a store and talking with someone who knows.

 

How about a set of fenderwell headers?

 

Thanks very much for the photo. Now I know what hotroddon was talking about. Is it more expensive to buy the ujoint and support bearing or buy headers that fit?
Or is it easier to buy the joints to make what I have work than it is trying to find the right set of headers that will fit?

 

I tried a shorty set of headers to clear the steering box of my 53 caddy i am in the process of putting in a 454 in it. I ended up using a full length header and cutting a tube to reroute it around the steering box. it worked out pretty good.

 

sorry double posted pic

 

I went to the local hot rod shop, he also builds stock cars and trad. customs so he's just not sellin parts and he hooked me up with some u joints and carrier bearing. they can be pricey but easy to do. any thing over two joints and you need a carrier bearing. (not those joints, sheesh) and don't forget to keep them in phase. good luck.

 

No speed shops in BFE south GA that I am aware of. I am in Kingsland GA and all we have here is the standard Autozone, Oreillys and Advanced. As they said in the movie "Oh Brother Where Art Thou" this place is a geographical oddity 40 miles from everywhere. 40 miles to Jacksonville FL, 40 miles to Brunswick GA and 40 miles to Waycross GA.

As always you guys are a wealth of info!

Thanks

JD

 

I would look at a set of 67-69 small block full tube headers . they stay close to the block. I used the big block version for mine look . how close they stay relative to the spark plugs . But you might have to modify the steering arm or headers to make it all work. I know i tried to find a bolt in fix but there was none. dont be afraid to have to cut something up. measure from the exhaust port to the steering arm and find a set that stays within those measurements. good luck.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I think I only need about 3/4" to 1" and I am clear.

JD

 

Depends on how much your time is worth...!!!

U-joints run about $65.00 each...support bearing less...

I already had the blok huggers for the 500" Caddy engine...had them metal sprayed, had money into them...so...

R-

 

Move the engine 1" to the right.

 

Are you using factory style motor mounts. G.M. made taller motor mounts on some of the G- body's & F- body's. The cars would have a standard motor mount on one side and tall one on the other. For clearance problems too.
The solid motor mounts are tall also. Put solid mount on steering shaft side and leave the p***enger side stock.

 

what he said x2! lots of factory applications did that. mopars did lots.

 

Moving the engine is not an option for me. No welding experience and no one here I would trust with doing it. The stock SBC 72' 400 motor mounts would not fit the Fatman engine brackets. I had to use 62'-68' Biscayne SBC mounts and they are shallower than the stock ones so no help there. I think I will have to go the ujoint route and make what I have work.

 

Don't know if you've tried this, but you might try giving Sanderson a call and see what they would do on an exchange for a set of block-huggers. They fit really tight, flow really well,and unless you're running an all-out race motor, they won't have a noticable impact on performance. I've had fitment problems with Sanderson headers before, and they were more than willing to work with me to resolve the problems. Good luck with your project! P.S. Sorry, didn't see your post about Sandersons offer to exchange. That would be my choice!

 

If it were mine I'd bust out the BFH and make it fit. Either that or another steering joint.