Take a look at the four photos from the link below. Why does my buggy spring bottom out just sitting there. It is bound up on the shackle and therefore I have no suspension. It will go up but not down. Should I get rid of this whole buggy spring setup and go with coil overs? I want to stay cheap and would like to figure out why this spring is not working right. I don't even have any weight on it yet. Are the shackle mounting hangers to far in? http://user.txcyber.com/~tkubiak/
you have the main leaf the very next spring is hitting your raidus rod. cut 1/2" of each side. or make some longer shakls.
Your spring perches are too narrow for the spring you have. What spring, perches and shackles do you have? you will need too move your spring mounts further appart on the axle.
I'd say the spring either too wide/long or if your not using a banjo axle the spring mounts are too near/far in as you say. Nick.
Dean: I bought this car with the setup you see. I don't know anything else about it. I agree with you that the spring perch needs to be further out on the axle housing. Glad to hear that is what others think. So, will the whole radius rod need to be cut off the rear end and re-welded further out or possibly just move the perch or connection for the shackle if possible.
Or just cut the spring and re roll the eyes to make it a little shorter. I had to do that on a 32 coupe one. Made all the difference in the world
I'd yank everything but the spring and start over. Those radius rods look scary, as do some of the welds.
Please take a good, hard long look around the forum and tech-o-matic before even thinking about revisiting that project. Some of the top talent in the traditional hot rodding world is on this forum, and some of them have posted numerous pictures and tech articles outlining their projects. It particular check out the threads on welding and fabrication and ch***is construction.
You will have to cut the wishbone mounts off the housing and reweld them further out. Then you will probably have to heat and bend the spring purches to make them parralel to the spring again. After you have all the weight in the car, the shackles should be at a 45 degree angle. What year is that rearend? Do you know who makes the spring?
All I know is the rear end looks to be around a 1978 Lincoln Versaille with rear disc. Don't know about the spring.
Those spring perches are way too close together.My perches,using a stock 'A' spring are about 48 1/2 inches apart.There doesn't appear to be any tension in the spring which should be stretched to reach the perches. Even if you get that fixed,the spring will hit the frame rails as the 'A' rear cross member is designed with open ends to clear the spring. I don't want to sound like a ***** but,to be honest,I'd start from scratch with the frame,for your own safety and peace of mind.
Yep the spring is too long for those mounts. Model A is generally 48 1/2 to 49 1/2 depending on who you talk to. Posies makes a narrow A spring that uses 44 inch spring mounts.
Yeah, my perch measure 42.5 apart. So, what is the solution if I start all over? Someone have pictures of how it should be done? What kind of radius rods? If they are spread out further they will hit on the body. Can I just go with coilovers and no radius rods. Some suggestions please...thanks.
What body are you using? What is the current wheelbase? Would you be OK with extending the Wheelbase?
Look under the tail of any stock Model A or 32-36 Ford. It is the spacing. Whoever built the car did not understand the way and reason Ford designed the setup at all. Ford transverse springs from 09-41 are mounted under tension. You have to spread the spring in order to mount it to the shackles. When first mounted, without load, the shackles are bars are level, then when load of car is added they drop to as much as 45 degrees. The tensioning eliminates the need for a Panhard bar.
I have this problem with a 40 rear spring. They way I understand it, the spring width should be roughly the same (maybe a bit less even) as the distance between shackle when installed in the perches and placed parallel to the crossmember (see pic). When installed and vehicle weight on the spring the shackles should be close to 45 degrees. Right? Eaton spring told me they will make a new main leaf for $120.
It's simple...if you have a 40 spring your spring perches should be spaced exactly the same as a 40 Ford, you'll probably find that they are the same 35-40 anyway. This knowledge seems to have be lost in the last 10-15 years for some strange reason. Rod builders didn't have this problem years ago because it was the way it was. Ford equals simple, solid, stout. It isn't magic, it's just simple engineering which held up Fords for 40 years and hotrods of many makes for the next 60! What has been lost is the simplicity. Don't worry about shackle angles, just KNOW the dimensions for the mounting of your particular Ford spring and do it. The shackle angles take care of themselves with a proper installation.
I am using a 30 Model A sedan body. The current wheelbase is around 106" and that could be modified if need be.
The old rule of thumb was (as I remember it, and still use it) measure the centers of your shackle mounts and subtract 3.5",... 1.5" for each shackle and the 1/2" for preload,.... To make it easy on yourself I always mount the main leaf by itself (it's easy and can be done by hand),... then ***emble the spring on it with a long piece of threaded rod, when it's drawn down use two big beefy "C" clamps on either side of the center bolt, remove the threaded rod and replace it with the spring bolt,..... I have done it this way for the last 40 some years. I would inspect the ch***is really good on what the previous owner did, if you feel confident, just have a new main leaf made (and cut down the secondary leaf),.... it looks like there has been a lot of heat introduced to the axle housing and I am not a big fan of cutting and welding on it again if it can be helped. Just my opnion.
Is the spring and these trailing arms worth using or go with something else. What? http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/rr5/tkubiak/Picture009.jpg http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/rr5/tkubiak/Picture008.jpg
All good advice so far but the frame should have been welded to the front of the X member giving you at least 4 more inches travel. Not sure what you can do now. Maybe cut the frame for clearance and add support elsewhere.
I understand that much. But, I have neither a 40 axle nor the dimensions for the 40 spring perch spacing. Due to space constraints under the box of our truck the perches have to be where they are. I'm asking if there is some method to determin spring width when you're dealing with non-stock Ford dimensions.
The rear Wishbones "trailing arms" are 1935/36 ford, you will get a lot of different opinions on here as to the strength without gusseting ,... I have used them for years and I have never seen a set that I used or anyone else used that failed,.... but gusseting them wouldn't hurt,..... I am a little concerned about the two notches in each one, just make sure that they are "V" grooved and welded by a professional, unless you are 100% confident in your welding skills. You can use some of the leafs out of that spring, but you either need a new main leaf, or see if a spring shop can cut down and re roll the eyes ( this may be cheaper, but I think a new spring or main leaf is the best choice,.... your **** will be riding on it) or see how much Posies would make you a custom length spring for. Again,. just my opinion.
I mocked up the arms further out, does this look right. How far should the shackle mount be from the spring eye. If it has to be compressed then how far apart should it be with a 41" eye to eye spring? http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/rr5/tkubiak/Picture010.jpg http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/rr5/tkubiak/Picture011.jpg http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/rr5/tkubiak/Picture012.jpg
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