Help granada brakes

I have granada brakes installed on the front of my 59 custom 300. problem I have is the brakes seem to be hanging up a bit. When I am driving I am getting some squeeling from the front brakes. I pulled the front calipers and put some of the anti squeel compound on the back sides of the pads. It helped but the pads are still talking to me. The slider pin on the driver side was a real pain to get in place. Is there any caliper kits out there to place better calipers on the granada spindles?
Eric

 

Are yousing the Granada calipers? It seems like most people use the G.M. "midsize' caliper with the Granada rotors, i did on my '46.

 

Are the calipers holding pressure or are the brakes just noisy? Also did you just do the swap or have they been on the car for a while?

 

Take the pads off and champher the leading edges. Also make sure you bend the outer pads tabs in a bit so the pad grips the caliper a bit and make sure the rear pad has an anti rattle clip on it.

 

Sounds like your caliper brackets aren't drilled accurately and your calipers are hanging up on your rotors. They kind of "****" at an angle instead of returning all the way. You can tell this is happening when your pads wear unevenly, I.E. thinner at the front that the rear. Unfortunately, other than welding up the holes in the caliper brackets and properly drilling and tapping them, I don't know what to tell you. You might contact the company that made them and see if they would replace the side that is bad. Another thing to check, did you replace the caliper pins when you installed the calipers? If you have a bent pin that could cause the same symptoms. Either of these would be why the pins were so hard to remove.

 

I think he is using stock Granada spindles/ brackets and calipers. They don't use pins for alignment. They use a sliding wedge and bar spring to align and slide on. The wedge is held in by a flat allen head cap screw. That wedge and the other side of the caliper where it slides needs to be well glopped up with anti seize too.

 

Do you have a disc - drum master cylinder?

 

I am using a CPP master cylinder which has the built in proportioning valve/residual valve. I am going to try to find another stock caliper mounting bracket for the drivers side and see if that helps.

 

I just went through and reread the thread and I think your right. Sorry.

 

FWIW, several years ago I had a bad brake hose that collapsed inside and held pressure to the caliper.

 

Replacing brake hoses in pairs will at least rule them out and it costs very little. Those Ford calipers were prone to rusting pistons, if you're handy, rebuild them. I've seen more than one of those cause what you are describing.

The wedge system was used on Ford products starting in 1973 and always worked pretty well with no "hang ups". You shouldn't have to fight with reinstalling your calipers. Make sure all metal-to-metal surfaces are wire brushed and coated with a hi-temp brake lube, avoid using never-seize since its not meant to be used for brake hardware.

So, my money is on a sticky caliper first with a bad brake hose second.

Bob

 

crack the bleeder and if that releases the caliper you might have a bad hose going to caliper. newer chevy pickups were really bad about collapsed caliper hoses. i used to have a block of wood same thickness as chevy truck rotor and would take caliper out of mounting bracket slide in piece of wood have helper push brake pedal. if caliper was working correct the block would simply fall out when you released pedal if not we cracked bleeder to release pressure. then worked our way back to mc. and it was usually the 2nd place you cracked system, the flexible caliper hoses.

 

I also have a 1959 Ford Custom 300. What year Granada brakes did you use? Are there any pit falls to be aware of?